Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Newbie wants more POWER! Advice PLEASE!

[Rdunkin]

Hello all After reading some post here I paid up and am a member as I see the value in knowledge. I have a 96 4x4 5 Spd. Ext. cab CTD that is all stock with 264K mi. In the last 2 weeks I have installed a new 5th. gear nut and a SBC clutch [the cheap one] I just ordered a 4" exhaust and AFE stage 1 air filter and box Assy. I am wondering if the STS #11 plate would be a good choice for my use. I haul a 5K [empty] trailer all over the country hauling tractors and farm Equipment. I will haul up to 15K LBS. rarely, most loads are 10K or less. 50% of my driving is without a trailer. I am looking for a little more power but do not want to KILL my fuel mileage. I understand you cant get something for nothing but I would be interested to hear what anybody with this combo. or a similar one has to say. Pyrometer ordered also!

Thanks

Richard Dunkin Sapulpa OK.

 

[ndurbin]

I'd go with a #10 plate and a 3,000rpm gov. spring kit myself since your towing quite abit. You can always slide it back just a bit if things get to hot while pulling your trailer.



Nathan

 

[Rdunkin]

Well I ordered a #10 and AFC spring kit. I will try it out and may go to the 3K GSK if its not enough. My truck pulls hard to 2700 RPM and will go to 3000 RPM, what is your max. RPM with the 3K GSK ?

Thanks

 

[ndurbin]

It should rev to around 3500-3600 rpms and pull hard past 3000.



I don't like my #10 on the top end as it defuels to early (due to plate profile). You hit 3/4 throttle and theres no more go. But it's strong in the bottom and mid ranges. I shoulda bought the 3k GSK last month when PDR had them on sale. But I'll add the 3k GSK eventually and turn my #10 into a #100 plate (#10 plate ground flat at the top).



Nathan

 

[Rdunkin]

Is there a link to see a #100 ? or do you just grind it flat at the top ?Will the boost orfice I get with the #10 work with the #100 ?

I think the $125 for the 3000 GSK would be well worth 1000 + RPM's.

What kind of power did your injectors make? I got the TST KDP kit also as my pin left a LONG time ago and cracked the cover, this will give me a reason to fix the oil leak ! No telling how much $ spent on oil.

How do I add my truck Info. at the bottom of page?

Thanks

Richard

 

[ndurbin]

You just grind the top part flat with the deepest part of the plate. The boost orfice is pretty universal I believe (not sure on that one tho).



The injectors made ALOT of difference once I dropped them in. You should be at 350+ if ya add the injectors I would guess.



I dont think the KDP kit well fix a cracked housing. You maybe SOL and have to replace the whole housing (which aint fun or cheap).



To add your signature, goto the User Control panel link under the Discussion Forums drop down menu at the top of the screen. Once at the User Control panel screen on the left side is a list of links and at the the top should be EDIT signature.



Nathan

 

[Joe G.]

If the KDP fell out you might as well sell the KDP kit. Its purpose is to prevent the KDP from falling out. A new gear case is different so that the KDP will not fall out.

 

[C. Harlan]

I honestly like the 11 better than the 10 for towing. If you want more power, get some 191 delivery valves, but watch the manifold pressures. . My stock HX35 went POP a week after I bought the DV's in. Awesome power, and LOTS OF SMOKE! HEHE



-Chris-

 

[JJW_ND]

Plate yes - GSK ???

I pulled quite alot with a #11. It is a good pulling plate, makes very noticiable power over stock. I have since had a change to pull with a #10. It make very noticeable power over a #11, especailly in lower RPMS. I had pulled my truck hard for 180K miles before adding any plate or GSKs so I new exactly what it could do with the loads I pulled.



If I was to do it all over, I would go straight to a #10, position it to keep EGTS, Clutch and everything else in check when pulling and skip the GSKs... even the 3GSK. If you pull the same loads you have been used pulling stock, you will only need 60 - 80% of the power/throttle to do the same thing. As compared to stock, when you add a plate (especially a #10) the power increase will more the make up for any lack of RPM power. You will find your self in top gear and never needing to shift down. You will find the ability to rev even starting at lower rpms. You will not find a need for pulling power over 2700 rpms.



My 96 5sp would also pull hard to 2700 rpms and rev to 3000 pretty easy. I could pull 3K rpms stock in 5th empty(100+ mph). Unless some pretty substantial changes are made with the turbo (sounds like you have intake and exhaust done), you will find heavy fueling above 2700 rpms is all heat and mostly unusable. From a pulling standpoint, I have not found the need to pull above 2700 rpms and I can pull WOT up to 2700 with no EGT issues. The GSK's are more important to the smaller pumps that did not pull as high of rpms stock. Wait with the GSKs, you will be plenty impressed with the plate change.



Unless something is setup incorrectly, your intown mileage will go down slightly but your highway cruising and towing mileage should go up slightly.



The last thing that I would have done is a slight timing bump (15- 16).



jjw

ND

 

[Neibe]

You came to the right place!!!!!! ENJOY

 

[Rdunkin]

Thank you all for all the Info. and opinions. The reason for the KDP kit is for the crank seal [cover] and seal install tool. I will weld or J B weld the crack in my cover to stop the oil leak. I saw on a site there were 2 dowell pins, my top pin has gone to the pan but Im not sure about the lower one.

I will install the plate and AFC spring and see what its like. I think you were right about my towing RPM needs but... ... . an EXTRA 1000 RPM's ! That could come in handy when passing POWERSMOKES.

Thanks Richard

 

[Joe G.]

There have been reported instances where repairing a gear case did not help a lot. The case was weakened and cracked which caused additional damage. The gear case has to support the P7100 pump which is pretty heavy. If it's cracked it is a VERY good idea to replace it. If it cracks so that the injection pump shifts that may result in some serious and expensive damage.

 

[Rdunkin]

Thanks I will check it closely while apart to see how much damage the pin did.

I am sure seeing a lot of #5 plates being used, they show it as not recomended on my 96 5 Spd. but evidently its possible. What are the PRO and CON of the larger plates like the #5 ? Is this just a Max. effort only ?

Thanks Richard

 

[Rdunkin]

Also could somebody verify that the boost orfice for a #10 plate is compatable with a #100 plate.

Thanks Richard

 

[pwerwagn]

The boost fitting is adjustable with an allen wrench. If you want more boost, tighten it. It is compatible with any plate. The #10 is probably the best all around plate. I have 2 plates for my 215 pump (the same pump as you). I have a #11 for towing. A #11 is plenty impressive for most people. I have pulled as much as 16K with it, and that was with the plate full foward. With a #10 in the stock location, you should be looking at around 330/750. I personally like the gov springs. Especially for the big gap between 3rd and 4th. I also have a #108 plate (zero plate on top, ramp on bottom). I would not reccomend grinding a #100 if your gonna tow. I think you'd need a better turbo to cool it. A #8, 6, or 5 plate are usually used in the 180/160 pumps. Those plates fuel more than a 12,11, or 10. A 10 is usually plenty in a 215 pump. If not, most people then grind a 100 or a #0 (flat).

also, I have the #11 full foward slip my clutch. The #108 kills it. I dont think the smaller SB clutch will handle a #100.

My reccomendation, since you have the air filter and exhaust, is go with a #10 and 3KGSK and slide the plate to control EGT's. Roughly . 020" is equivalent to 20hp.

Enjoy!!!



--Jeff

 

[Rdunkin]

PWERWAGN: I spoke with STS or TST whoever they are today and you hit it on the head, they told me the same thing that you posted almost word for word. I have not received my parts yet so I havent seen the elbow but that makes sence. I am going to install the #10 as is and tune from there. I think the next step will be a 16cm. housing to be able to work the #10 to its full potential. I am still leary of the 3K GSK as RPM's kill mileage but, I see your point on the "dreaded" 3-4 shift.



THANK YOU... ... to you and the others that have taken time to help me!



Richard