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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Newbie with lots of questions

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Ignition shot?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck dies

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Brand new to this site. Like my sig says I have an 01 with DDII's and a new Comp box. On 5x5 my fuel pressure drops to almost 0 psi for a split second then rises to about 4-5psi at WOT. EGT's are usually around 1300 but have hit 1440. I have only had the Comp box for about a week so I am experimenting with it. Hit about 41psi boost on turbo. I really like it but I know I have to be careful on 5x5. Question is, I guess I need a pusher pump of some sort. I just dropped quite a bit into my truck and don't want to drop too much more. What would be best for me... BD pusher, FASS system, etc. an how hard are they to install. Also, what about these EGT's..... I have a 4" from the Magna Flow back but not from the turbo to the muffler, would that make much of a difference? Also have K&N drop in filter... is this ok? And lastly, I would like to lift the truck about 1-2" total. . is KORE best for this? Thanks!!
 
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Clmsnow said:
Brand new to this site. Like my sig says I have an 01 with DDII's and anew Comp box. On 5x5 my fuel pressure drops to almost 0 psi for a split second then rises to about 4-5psi. EGT's are usually around 1300 but have hit 1440. I have only had the Comp box for about a week so I am experimenting with it. Hit about 41psi boost on turbo. I really like it but I know I have to be careful on 5x5. Question is, I guess I need a push pump of some sort. I just dropped quite a bit inot my truck and don't want to drop too much more. What would be best for me... BD pusher, FASS system, etc. an how hard are they to install. Also, what about these EGT's..... I have a 4" from the Magna Flow back but not from the turbo to the muffler, would that make much of a difference? Also have K&N drop in filter... is this ok? And lastly, I would like to lift the truck about 1-2" total. . is KORE best for this? Thanks!!



1) K&N drop in is bad. Poor filtration, not much more flow. Try a NAPA 2790 BHAF. The stock airbox doesn't sell very well, whether with K&N or factory paper. Filtration is improved by replacing the airbox (which both the BHAF and a full intake system will do).



2) KORE suspension is the best available. If you have the money, it's the way to go. If you just want a couple inches to run bigger tires, it's a waste of money. Only spend the money if you can truly appreciate what a cutting-edge racing-derived suspension can do for you.



3) A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and you should really have a 4" exhaust as much of the pipe as you can. That said, the stock turbine housing is WAY more restrictive than the exhaust, so replacing the exhaust when you still have the stock turbo isn't going to show you the potential of the aftermarket exhaust.



4) Keep running your turbo to 41 psi and it will explode. You should consider limiting you box setting to 3x5 until you get a bigger turbo. 35 PSI max for HX35. This is the "safety cutoff"-- the actual efficiency limit is lower, closer to 32psi. In other words, you are seeing higher boost, but not getting any more air into the engine (it's too hot). Consider an external wastegate.



5) Very brief, momentary spikes of EGT up to 1500 or so are OK. For anything other than just a blip, consider 1300 your cutoff. Be advised that the #6 cylinder tends to run a little hotter, so if you see 1300 on the gauge, it's probably higher at #6, so you would be wise to just avoid sustained high EGT entirely.



6) Running your fuel pressure to zero is a VERY BAD IDEA. Never let it get below 5 psi. Ideally, it would be between 5 and 14 all the time, though slightly higher (17-18) doesn't seem to hurt. 20+ causes hard starting.



Fuel system upgrades are pretty easy to install. You don't need a FASS or anything like that. Any pump that can provide 100gph or more at 5-14psi will do just fine if it's diesel compatible. Avoid "pusher" setups, as they add unnecessary complexity and run the fuel pressure too high. You'd be wise to consider investing in a FP regulator to keep the pressure down if you go the pusher route.



The only "bulletproof" setup I know if that's electric and cheaper than a FASS is something based on an Aeromotive fuel pump (check out their street rod pump). The Mallorys, Holleys, carters, and others all fail. The "best" fuel setup is the belt-driven RASP, but it's expensive. It's also not an electric pump, which is good to some, bad to others.



To ME, the RASP is the perfect setup because it supplies fuel in direct proportion to engine RPM. This means that as the engine needs more fuel, it provides more. Thus, no need for regulators and other stuff to keep FP in the "sweet spot" between 5 and 14psi.



jmo





Justin
 
Thanks Justin. . that is great info. The boost only hits 41 for a brief second. . I'd say it runs closer to 35 when I am in it for awhile. . same with the temps, jump up and then stay about 1300. The fuel gauge will go down to 0 then run about 4-5psi when I am at WOT on 5x5. As for the air box, what is the NAPA 2790 BHAF? Is that just a filter or and filter/air box combo. . and what is the cost?
 
The BHAF is a replacement filter that eliminates the air box anf stock filter all together. These filters run around $40-$50 and can last a long time with a prefilter wrap from Outerwears. I would recommend a heat shield of sorts to aid mainly in cool down times. I ran one of these filters for about 6 months and in high heat after a long pull on the highway it does take a long time to cool down. These filters can also be bought at your local Cummins dealer Fleetguard p/n AF19037.

Your biggest prblem right now (besides the air filter, and fuel pressure) is your turbo. Replace it with one that flows more air and deliver higher boost levels efficiently and safely. Check out Piers or HTTurbo for an affordable replacement.

I run the FASS setup on my truck and I like it, nuff said.

Hope this helps.

-Tom
 
Replacing the banjo bolts with AN fittings worked for me. My LP was still running strong though. I am getting 16psi at idle and 8-9 at WOT.
 
Another option would be an AFE Filtration Kit- it has built in mounts and heat shield- and it slips in place of the stock airbox-even uses the same mounting hardware from your stock airbox. I use the F. A. S. S. system as well as alot of people here- some prefer the Airdog others prefer the FASS.

That stocker turbo is your real restriction and should have some attention in this area..... that turbo stops building power around 27-30psi after that all your doing is increasing the e. g. t. 's even more without a real down pipe from the turbo... . I wouldnt be runnin with that box on kill with this setup- your just asking for trouble down the road.....

Sooooo the first thing I would do is TURN THAT BOX TO A LOWER SETTING!
Then start setting up a plan to attack your airflow restriction(airfilter & turbo)
If you were hit hard with your previous mods then maybe go for one of them hybid 35-40 turbos for the time being and start squirreling money away for a REAL turbo...
Filter whatever you choose is also manditory... ...
 
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Wow... great info guys, keep it coming. So if I get the BHAF do I need the heat shield as well and where do I get one? I am assuming this is much better then the drop in K&N. As for fuel pumps... is the FASS the way to go? What about the BD pumper? How hard are these to install? And for the turbo... man I may have a hard time talking my wife into that one, I just dropped 2K. How much am I looking at for one and which do I need, and bow much more power? Should I change the down pipe from the turbo for now, it is stock. If so where do I get one and how much? Sorry for all the "new-guy" questions, just want to know what I am doing and do my homework first. Thanks.
 
Oh- Clmsnow- I forgot, Welcome to the TDR!!

The AFE already HAS the built in heat shield- The FASS set-up is pretty straight forward on the install- The Hybrid HX35-40 is a pretty reasonable priced starter turbo upgrade- or you can go right into an HX-40 Turbo- be sure to get the one with the oiling modification for the shaft-Piers Diesel should be able to help you out there. How much power are you looking to get from your truck? That would give a better idea on how we can advise you so you don't waste your money.
I have on my truck the Skyjacker Softride leveling springs in the front of mine- rides great too... and they were just under 200. 00 smackers.

Seriously though after 30psi that stocker turbo is just out of its range... . after 30 all that boost gauge is telling you is how much you need another larger turbo than the one you have now... ...
 
A no cost improvment to your air filter is to remove the plastic snorkel that goes to the fender well. AFE also has a ProGuard 7 drop in filter that flows well & filters dust well. The BHAF is less expensive, however. Check the classifies on this site. You might find a killer deal on a stock HX 35. One of those with a 14 cm exhaust housing might be the best choice for every day driving. If you have a die grinder or a Dremel tool, you can spend a few hours & port your exaust housing. That decreases spool up time & EGT's. There are good instructions on http://www.nwbombers.com/ Just look for the "sticky" in the Cummins forums.
 
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Just how much would a HX35 go for? :confused: I have my origonal one and can perform the porting on it pretty qwickly? The HX35 I have has 10,300 miles on it( I killed my warranty on my truck that fast-couldnt wait for the warranty to expire:-laf ) Just an idea? If your interested..... I'm well beyond using the 35 anyhow;) - So it's just sitting in a box on the shelf:p ...
 
As far as how much power, I am looking for 450-500, but then again when you guys talk HP, are you talking at the rear wheels or motor? Heck, what do I have now with the DDII's and Comp box? Like I said, I am a newbie;) I like the power it has on 5x5, a little more would be nice, but if I could safely use what I have I would be happy. The BHAF sounds like a nice way to go, exactly which one do I get, where from, and then do I need anything else with it. . like a heat shield, if so, where on that one too? I think I found the FASS for less then $400, sounds resonable and I'll do it myslef. As for the turbo, which seems to be the biggie here, I have been looking at the HX40 on different website's(Pier's and JandH). . seem to be around $1400-1600, are there many variations in that turbo, if so what's the best? Will I be loosing anything by going to the bigger turbo(even though I really don't know what I have now) or is the B1 better?
 
[ Will I be loosing anything by going to the bigger turbo(even though I really don't know what I have now) or is the B1 better?[/QUOTE]



Yes, you will lose the quick spool up to boost. It's all compromise & it's very easy to get over turboed. To large on the turbo & your EGT at cruise will rise & you will be leaving lots of black smoke when you start out & shift.
 
Clmsnow said:
Like I said, I am a newbie;) I like the power it has on 5x5,

I wouldn't call that power. :( I call that an appetite for destruction!! Your putting that turbo totally out of the maximum map range, turn that box down or you'll shred that impeller wheel... ... and it's not a pretty sight to see the after affects of an exploding wheel... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
 
RacinDuallie said:
I wouldn't call that power. :( I call that an appetite for destruction!!
You're right, lets pump this thing up... so what turbo to go with? And if I put on the turbo and FASS system, what else can I do to get more power other then the DDII's and Comp box? And give me some $$$$$ figures.
 
Clmsnow said:
RacinDuallie said:
I wouldn't call that power. :( I call that an appetite for destruction!!
You're right, lets pump this thing up... so what turbo to go with? And if I put on the turbo and FASS system, what else can I do to get more power other then the DDII's and Comp box? And give me some $$$$$ figures.

Well JEEZ! :eek: - that's a sudden change of thought! How much are you setting aside to do this increase?


I would:

1) Turn down that box!!:{ - I know it hurts you to do this BUT DO IT.

2) Atleast look into the AFE- you don't have to fabricate mounts,shields or anything! Pop the hood open stock box- pull K&N out (throw like a frisbee towards the nasty neighbors house:-laf ) Loosen 3 bolts that hold the factory box on, loosen hose clamp on the turbo feed, remove the filter minder- and throw on the AFE kit with same 3 holddowns, install feed- tighten hose clamp, push in minder grommet- push in minder- DONE!- no rigging!

3) Decide how much your willing to spend on the next turbo... .
The HX-35-40Hybrid would be step 1

The full on HX-40 would be step 2

The PDR HX-40 (with the oiling modification) would be a better 40-to get specify 4" downpipe use- (and get the 4"downpipe!) would be step 2. 5

The B1 line of turbos are known as a tough turbo, beefy shaft- great spool, great at cutting the E. G. T. 's down. Depending on which B1 you choose, they have different versions they range in steps 4,5,6,7.

Anything after this and I feel you need to look for a twin setup

There are a few other turbo choices in between- some prefer the HTB line- some like others- Ken Diaz at Turbo Auto Diesel- has a good handle on the B1 line.

4) Injectors-The bigger the turbo you decide on would tell you if the injectors need to be changed, example- your DD2's- if you keep them would be good for the 35-40 hybrid- you'll want something like 3's or 4's when you go with the 40.
B1's you'll want 4's or 5's maybe even 6's depending which B1.

5)FASS Kit- popular set up- there are others- up to you.

6) 4" Turbo Downpipe.


But how wild you go- really depends on the budget allowed.
 
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I just talked with the shop that did my work and we have a little bit of a plan that would be real affordble for me. AFE filter, BD pusher pump, 4" all the way back and a BD Super B turbo. Sounds like I can do the whole thing for about $1600-1700. Along with my Comp and DDII's they said it would be a nice package... not huge power, but real friendly. How's that sound???
 
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