Newby Asks: Free-Wheel Front Hubs

[RUSSELL5000]

I have read a few threads here that leave me confused regarding front axles on 4WD trucks.

I did quite a bit of reading on the “Buyer’s Guide” and the “Perfect Collection” regarding fuel economy and it appears that most approaches just don’t pan out on an economic basis. I put around 10,000 miles per year on my truck and any expense will be recouped slowly.

On the other hand, I have observed several threads regarding “free-wheel front hubs.” I gather this means that the front wheels may be disconnected from the front drive train and allowed to spin freely like the front wheels in a 2WD truck. Since the whole front drive train is not turning then there is a savings in fuel economy – I think I saw in some threads this is up to one mile per gallon.

Another item I have observed in some threads is that there have been problems with the durability of the front drive train, and that there are advantages to installing an after-market free-wheel front hub kit.

I researched these some online, and they appear quite expensive – a couple of thousand dollars. So, quite a long time for me to recoup the investment - but would it be worthwhile from a reliability point of view?

So, still pretty much a newby and scratching my head on this issue for a 2012 truck.

How do you view it?

Thanks!!!

 

[mpaulson]

If you are at a point where you need to deal with the OEM wheel bearings, then would be a good time to do it due to the cost offset difference. Some of the advantages of the free spin kits are that they move the bearings to about 5 inches apart instead of 2 1/2" or so. this means that when you get some place in the bearings you won't notice it with the 5" spacing where the OEM ones you will feel the wander more in the steering. The kits are serviceable and replacable for greaseing them. Bearings and seals are cheap like $30 off the shelf so they can be serviced like the 80's and prior. The feel in the steering wheel feels much better as well, no drivetrain vibrations and turning the wheel has a different feel as well. You can use low range in two wheel drive for maneuvering heavy loads on hard surfaces without driveline binding. I also used it on some of the roads that I drove to get my RV into the bush where you are driving at really slow speeds for an hours that keeps the transmission in first and second gear and doing this in low range gets the transmission into 3rd and higher which locks up the converter which keeps the heat down substantially. This was on my last truck which was an 07.5. In the winter when I knew the roads would be bad, I just locked the hubs before I left home and then could switch in and out of 4x4 like a stock truck on the fly.

 

[JR]

It sounds like you will enjoy the factory warranty for some time yet, I would drive it and enjoy it until the warranty is expired. Then you can decide if you will be keeping the truck for many years or if a new one is in your future.
Kind of an apples to oranges comparison, but I am still on my original wheel bearings on my 16 year old truck (120k miles). I run over sized tires and run lease roads and tractor paths regularly and they are still nice and tight. The AAM axles are supposed to be an improvement over the older Danas so unless you regularly use 4 wheel drive, plan on driving a ton of miles or plan on keeping the truck long term IMO there is not enough return for the investment. Yes they are an improvement but the truth is most people will not recover the initial cost.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Thanks, guys.

I will wait to revisit this issue until out of warranty or a problem.

 

[Regcabguy]

I think automatic hubs gave manual freespin hubs a bad name. Nearly all early 4wd trucks had manual freespins standard until the industry began installing cost and maintenance saving fulltime,sealed hubs. I never had issues with my Toyota or F-250's with freespins. If I crossed water all the time the sealed would definitely be the way to go.
I distinctly remember feeling lighter steering in both those rigs when I locked out the hubs.

 

[cerberusiam]

At 10k per year it would take a long time to recoup the investment, probably longer than you intend to own the truck. Mpg increases are so specific to the driver, truck, conditions, etc, that it is a tough compare. Maybe 1 mpg, likely less.

About the only forceful argument for the free spin hubs is 2 wheel drive low range when you need it for backing trailers or heavy loads.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

At 10k per year it would take a long time to recoup the investment, probably longer than you intend to own the truck. Mpg increases are so specific to the driver, truck, conditions, etc, that it is a tough compare. Maybe 1 mpg, likely less.

About the only forceful argument for the free spin hubs is 2 wheel drive low range when you need it for backing trailers or heavy loads.

I agree with this guy. I wanted a free spin kit on my old 04 so bad that it almost burnt a hole in my pocket. But in the end, it didn't pencil out financially and I would only be buying it for the cool factor.

 

[JR]

I think automatic hubs gave manual freespin hubs a bad name. Nearly all early 4wd trucks had manual freespins standard until the industry began installing cost and maintenance saving fulltime,sealed hubs. I never had issues with my Toyota or F-250's with freespins. If I crossed water all the time the sealed would definitely be the way to go.
I distinctly remember feeling lighter steering in both those rigs when I locked out the hubs.

If I had my choice, I'd choose manual hubs over automatics any day for all the obvious reasons. But since we are stuck with the automatics and the cost to switch to manuals for any of the generation trucks is significant, it just does not make sense (to me) to put the coin out for a set.

Of course if anybody in TDR Land needs any ideas for Xmas for me, this would be a GREAT present....

 

[Regcabguy]

By auto hubs I meant freespin dual bearing hubs that were automatically engaged upon shifting to 4wd(I don't remember the exact procedure). Our stock Dodge's have a single fulltime sealed bearing hub.

 

[RVTRKN]

When your uni-bearings or U-joints fail is when the expense would warrant it. I'm in your boat and drive 10K miles and less per year. With only 55k on the odometer after seven years, it will be awhile before I need to worry about it, but my front will be converted to free-spin hubs when any failure in the front drive line happens.

 

[ABennin]

I have a Spyntec free spin hub conversion. I like it and do not regret buying it. At the time the truck needed both front wheel bearings replaced and decided to upgrade. I like the improvement in the handling and 2 lo is was nice to have again(I had a '91.5 W350 CTD). I plan on keeping my truck a long time. It has turned into a hobby. I use it to tow and it goes into heated storage in winter. I know I will never recoup the cost, but there are worse things to spend money on in this world.

 

[rscurtis]

Don't overlook the savings derived from not wearing out the front DS and axle u-joints. There is a FE benefit, particularly for highway driving. I wouldn't worry about the warranty either, you just replaced the only parts that would have been covered anyway.

 

[SierraRam]

I have a Dynatrac kit, since I run large tires the serviceable Timken bearings are a definite plus. I also had front drive line vibration issues at highway speeds (60+), since I seldom drive in 4x4 at those speeds having the front driveline not spinning makes a noticeable difference in ride quality plus the added increased fuel mileage. Been a all around plus for me.

 

[Gordo]

I am in the process of changing over to the manual hubs on my " new to me " 2008, 3500 Ram SRW. I did check on this site as well as others prior to the purchase, which is horrendously overpriced. I am pulling a fifth wheel @ around 17 thousand pounds. We have just purchased this fifth wheel to do an extended trip from Ohio, south to the Gulf and out to the west coast.
We have taken four short trips to get in tune with towing something this big. The last short trip was to Lake Hope, southeast of Columbus. Some of the roads were very curvy with a decent grade. ( Although nothing close to what may be coming ). On one of the downhill grades I tried to get to get to the lowest speed possible using first gear of high range. The total weight pushed me too fast and forced me to use too much brake pedal, which began to heat up the pads. The result of that experience on a rather short downhill grade pushed me over the edge to buy the hub kit. My thought process is that if I want to crawl down a hill, or mountain, I should be able to do it in low range, without being in four wheel lockup. I guess it depends, ( the decision to buy an expensive kit ), on what your priorities are. For me, it is getting down a very steep grade with a heavy load without burning up a set of brakes.

Gord and Janet Fuchs
Northfield Center, Ohio

 

[seafish]

I am in the process of changing over to the manual hubs on my " new to me " 2008, 3500 Ram SRW. For me, it is getting down a very steep grade with a heavy load without burning up a set of brakes.

Gord and Janet Fuchs
Northfield Center, Ohio

Of course you should probably just install a turbo back or inline exhaust brake for even less money.

 

[mpaulson]

Of course you should probably just install a turbo back or inline exhaust brake for even less money.

The 08's have the factory exhaust brake already which works very well, but you need to be in 3rd gear or higher for the converter to lock up which is what 2 wheel low will accomplish. I used my 07.5 in this manner lots of times for the reasons Gordo has mentioned. Even with the 2 wheel low and e-brake I still managed to smoke the brakes a few times on the back country side trails that I haul my truck and trailer with the quads on down.

 

[seafish]

The 08's have the factory exhaust brake already which works very well, but you need to be in 3rd gear or higher for the converter to lock up which is what 2 wheel low will accomplish.

Of course you are right, I just had a brain fart is all!@!

 

[Gordo]

mpaulson and seafish,

I did, in fact attempt to use the exhaust brake, but I was still going too fast. I have not really understood the way the lockup converter works or when it does lock up. I appreciate the info.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Guys, thanks for the discussion. I have seen pricing on the internet at around $1,600 to $1,800 for the kits. This is also way more of a project than I have one on my truck, and so there could be labor. It is hard for me to see a cost benefit on this one.

I think I will do as someone said above: use it until there is problem and then cross the bridge at that point.

Thanks!

 

[ToddGeisler]

Years ago my '03 truck needed front wheel bearings and ball joints. Total bill was around $2400 parts and labor. Looking back I wish I had known about these free wheeling locking hub kits. That would have been the perfect time to upgrade.

As the years went bye, my truck was plagued with persistent front axle U-joint failures. Averaged replacing one every 12 to 18 months. Again, the free wheeling hubs would have certainly helped this situation as well.

This has me thinking about these for my 2015 truck, but don't think I'll do anything till the warranty is running out. Will keep doing some research on the subject though.