Newby Gunna Need Sum Help!

[backroad]

Let's see if I can get this right. I've been peeking in for about the last month searching for information on a planned conversion. Oops! Sorry, a repower.



I presenly have a 1987 Ford F350 Crewcab dually 4X4 with a very potent 460, but I know that It won't live pulling the loads I choose. About a month ago I acquired a 1990 Dodge w350 with a Cummins. The Dodge only has 312,000 on the original motor, so I am sure that there is still a couple hundred thousand miles left in the old girl. The 3 speed automatic let go somewhere after the 300,000 mile mark. It actually only exploded the torque converter, but a complete overhaul was given. (I understand that I still looked great inside, but while it was apart... ).



So here it goes..... I gunna need some help somewhere. Anyone know where I can find a set of prefabricated motormounts? How about information on adapting the electrical system? Now I know that this is just the beginning, but I've got to start someplace. I did find a person in Montana that offers a Kit, but am having a little difficulty getting him to get back with me.



So what do ya think... .....

Backroad

 

[dasyure]

I just did it, didn't use a kit wouldn't use one if I did it again, what do you need to know, got a welder the mounts take about 15 min to make if the cross member is the same gas vs diesel. been thinking of remaking mine and using two of the dodge pucks per side. electrical is very simple. when I pull the dump trailer the quarry scale says 35 to 36,000 when I leave and it will pull as fast as you want to go

Sean

 

[backroad]

Sean, I believe that you are the answer that I've been searching for. The motor mounts are NOT my big concern as I can build them and I do have the MIG. I am not a newcomer to conversions. I have been building and modifying Jeeps (Willys') all my life. As a matter of fact my present little flatfender sits on a wrangler springover coversion, powered my a Buick V-8 and a Turbo 350 automatic. It's also been stretched to an 86 inch wheelbase. Just loves the big rocks. The plan for the present 460 engine out of the truck is to convert it to the Willys.



Now that i've gotten severely off the intended subject... . I suppose that the electrical system is my biggest foe. I just don't know what is suppose to go where or what is required to start an/or stop it. Did you use the original Dodge/Cummins alternator or the Ford? Did you keep the DTD AC compressor or did you convert over to the Ford unit?



When it gets right down to the actual conversion/repower I am probably not going to be using the 1990 Cummins stuff that I already have. I also have access to a 1993 Dodge 3/4 ton 4X4. It has already been turned up with the larger injectors, pump mods and the 16cm turbine housing...



I plan on switching the Ford over to the 205 transfercase and have been searching for several answers. Since I have the access to the Dodge 4WD chassis, I also have the 518OD automatic and the 205 TC. Here's where it gets a bit sticky. It would be great just to bolt the whole Dodge Cummins, automatic OD and 205 Transfercase in the Ford, but then I'd have to also use the Dodge front axle since it comes out on the passenger side not like the Ford. I've been asking around a bunch to see if the Dodge 205 guts would simply bolt into the Ford divorce transfercase. None of the transmission shops or 4WD shops that I've talked to have any clue. It would be great if all the gears, shafts and bearings from the Dodge would work in the Ford TC. That way I wouldn't have to mess with the front axle (steering, mounts and Ford crossmember would all have to be modified).



I know that I've said a lot so far, and I hope that you have an abundance of patience. Well, of course you do, you've already been through most of this.



thanks... ... .

Backroad

 

[Hutchew]

NP241HD Transfer case.........

You could use this transfer case, as it drives the front off the left side. I have one if you are interested. It is originally off a 98 CTD 2500 4x4 and NV4500 setup, but my 205 bolted to the nv4500, so I would assume the 241 would bolt up to your 518. Might check with http://www.drivetrain.com out of Las Vegas for the adaptors you could use for the input/output. Keep us posted... ... ... ... .

 

[Crash_AF]

For your transfer case issue, Advance Adapters sells an adapter plate to mate a 73-79 Ford NP205 to an NV4500.



For wiring, I would stay with as much stuff that came bolted on the engine as possible and avoid trying to make the Ford stuff fit.



For motor mounts, give Randy Bleuth with Reliable Diesel in Mesa AZ a call at (480)325-6262. He's done several Ford and Chevy conversions and has some prefabbed conversion parts on hand.



Let us know how it turns out...



Later,

Joe

 

[dasyure]

Ahh electrical really easy use the dodge parts a/c alt a/c bought the dodge line manifold cut the lines and welded a/c barb fittings on same two wires ford uses to the clutch.

Inj pump there are a couple of wires yellow with black strip in the main wire loom drivers side by the cruise actuator that are 12v when key is on and start position hook in there and go to pump shut off solenoid you need to figure out if your

pump has the cold start advance that powered till engine warms up or gets powered after engine is warm or if the temp switch is still in the intake (mine wasn't) just run the same 12v to the switch the the other side of switch to the cold start solenoid.



As for the grid heaters not liking expensive parts I just hook a ford solenoid up to a switch in the cab to manually turn grid on if need be (haven't needed it yet).



Run the original starter solenoid wire to the starter and original bat cable for starter.



Alt large term at bottom of alt goes to battery next term up smaller insulated from case goes to ign switch 12v source same size term 1/2" away little higher goes to dodge volt regulator other side of regulator goes to ign switch.



Motor mounts I just mounted the dodge 89 motor mount to the original MM hole 1/4 plate on top of it 1/4 plate bolt to engine set engine in tack it where they touch cut a gusset to brace them weld it up didn't have to even take it back out. I used the ford ZF trany so I didn't have problems with the ford 205 transfer case.



I had to cut the core support at radiator width to get the engine in it won't fit with a transmission on it has to almost set on the cross member tip front of engine down and it will fit between the cowl and cross member, mine was diesel before so I used the ford radiator instead of bolting to the rear of the core support its bolted to 1 1/2" spacer

of the front flange of the core support and about 2" lower so hood will close got lazy and used ford fan shroud it isn't bolted on square with rad and fan is smaller than shroud but I have never seen the temp over 195 so it must be good enough a/c

cond. and grill will still fit and I can get all the valve covers off as is

Sean

 

[backroad]

daysure, Hutchew and Crash, I really appreciate your infinite wisdoms. I'm sure that this is just the tip of the iceberg with many pitfalls to come as with any conversion. I can easily deal with my older Willys conversion stuff but am now in an entirely new area. Diesel, I know is basically simple, but I am just starting to learn the basics of the little Cummins, even after driving big rigs most of my adult life.



Hutchew, I don't know much about the NP241 TC. Is it an all gear drive like the 205 or does it use a chain?



You guys have given me much to nibble on. I guess I need to stick my head further under the hood of my Dodge and pay a little more attention.



Really looking forward to getting to know all of you better, even if it's only on the puker.



thanks again,

Dennis (backroad)

 

[Hutchew]

Chain Drive, Webster..........

Is supposed to be pretty tough though. I personally like the idea of gears as opposed to a chain, but if it had been a right hand drive, I probably would have used it in my project.

 

[bvanetten]

Definitely give Randy a call. He's finding me an intercooler as we speak. He has a lot of conversion stuff and a ton of "been their, done that" knowledge. Guess who Cummins Southwest calls when they need conversion parts!

 

[backroad]

OK OK, I've tried twice today to get hold of Randy @ Reliable Diesel in Mesa, Az. Left him a message or two on his answering machine. At least he's reasonably close here in Arizona.



I hear some discusssionabout the intercooler/aftercooler/wet/dry.

Any clarification on which "might" be better and the possible costs and availability, maybe even used?



thanks,

Dennis Webster

(backroad)

 

[dasyure]

I've got a aftercooler (wet) and a egt problem under full fueling, but I don't know if the intercooler (air to air) would lower the intake temp (135 under heavy use) and make any egt differance. It's definantly cheaper and easier (wet) not knowing for sure I plan on just using water injection to keep the egt under control, figure fuel millage would be better with water also.

Sean

 

[backroad]

Impressed by the Numbers!

Since I am just getting into this "turned on diesel" thing I gunna make a stab here in the dark. It seems to me that you would have an EGT problem no matter what "intercooler" you chose to use. I don't really know what you have done to your motor to get the kind of numbers that you're comming up with, but I do want to tell you that your HP & Torque impress the cottonpick out of me.



I'm sure that whatever I end up with for mods, that I will have to "drive" the truck to keep the guages under control. Torque is a factor that I simply can't ignore. Talk about turning a fella on?



I am surprised that you don't have any driveline problems putting the power to the ground. Or do you?



Impressed,

Dennis

(backroad)

 

[dasyure]

problems? only the rear duals like to hop just have to fab a couple of bar for the rear axel untill I get time to do that, after you hop the rear landing 3 times crossing two lanes of traffic you learn to be more gentle. I think the front may have hoped also when I tried a 4w start (ya know put it together hey it runs lets go out in the street and see if it will spin all six tires not the brightest idea I ever had) but I didn't try that again. other than listed mods the pump (not a P pump) full load fuel is up as far as it will go (two turns in I think) and the smoke diafram is turned to the max position timming set to 18 deg.

I have only put 9,000 miles on it but so far have had no componit problems stock ford clutch disk ujoints trany. I do somtimes feel sorry for the trafic behind me when I take of from a light and they disapear into black smoke

Sean

 

[Scot]

Originally posted by dasyure



As for the grid heaters not liking expensive parts I just hook a ford solenoid up to a switch in the cab to manually turn grid on if need be (haven't needed it yet).



I used the ford ZF trany so I didn't have problems with the ford 205 transfer case.





Sean

Consider buying a constant duty soleniod like the Standard Ignition SS496. Have had a intermittant duty Ford style stick on.



How did you adapt Cummins to ZF bolt pattern?

 

[dasyure]

thats a good thought after I had 3 in a row stick on I never bought another one from napa currently use ford and never had one stick

the adapter plate came from a cummins dealer on the east coast penn I think they have them custom made like 5 at a time bolts right up but do have to grind about 2" long by tapered to 1/2" deep off the inside edge of the transmission bolt flange for the starter to fit up (starter goes on the right side also)

I can look up there name number if you need it

Sean

 

[Scot]

At this point, I am going to try and use a NV4500 or 5600. If I have to, will use ZF. Just trying to find out what my options are.