Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Newby on 12V's

[JBlackwell]

Well, I found a '94 dually I want to play with to do my towing for me. It just doesn't have a transmission. So I am looking into a rebuilt NV4500 with fully splined shaft and a Southbend 13" Con O I believe. The one capable of max loads with under 350hp.

Got to get the money straight on those items before I will buy the truck. It is setting in the back yard of a house a few miles down the road from me.



Anyways, I have gotten on the 12 V forum from time to time reading here and there. I've been very interested in the 12 V's for a while. When I get this truck I want to turn up the power, so can someone give me some links to some threads on some specifics? If not, give me a reply on what you think I would want for performance? I will expect heavy towing with this truck and I would like to get safe EGT's without changing the turbo. How far can I go on that? I am probably getting boost & EGT guages for it also.



What do I need to do with the pump... slide plate all the way forward? Change plate?



What about injectors? I think I have a 160 pump if I am not mistaken. Will 215 injectors best suite me?



I would like to run the stock HX and run 3" straight exhaust.

I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on turning this truck up, just something simple and reliable.



I appreciate any links or comments,

JD

 

[JGheen]

Don't run a 3" exhaust, its too small. 4" and bigger is the way to go for all diesels Just move your plate all the way forward or get a aftermarket plate, get the 3k governor spring kit, not sure on the injectors. As for turbo, you shouldn't have to replace the HX-35 to get the EGTs you want. Just get an aftermarket 14cm or 16cm turbine housing and they shouldn't get to hot. Also, if your going to get injectors, step your timing up a bit. Not sure what would be optimal but keep asking on here. And don't forget to adjust your AFC star wheel.

 

[bmoeller]

Gauges are a MUST before adding any fuel.



Don't slide the stock plate (especically without gauges and towing), the EGTs will get out of hand.



Was the truck originally equipped with a manual transmission, or are you converting an auto truck? It will make a difference in what you need to turn up the power.

 

[Deezul1]

People that have dynoed with both the stock exhaust system and the 4" setup report very little gain with a 4" until you get above 450hp. I am getting close to that and still using stock pipe w/o muff or cat and it works fine. To utilize bigger pipe you will do better with a HX 40 turbo rather than a HX 35 and the biggest reason to go there is EGT reduction so if you put that part off for a while untill you get the other stuff done you may change what you want.

 

[Extreme1]

This is what I had on my '94 dually (automatic) that dynoed at 275 hp:



215 injectors

#4 plate

STOCK exhaust & muffler

14 cm wastegated exhaust housing on the WH1C turbo (the HX-35 didn't make in on the '94's but the exhaust housings are interchangeable)



After that I added:



3,000 RPM kit (this makes a huge difference on the '94-'95's and it made as big a difference as the injectors)

181 delivery valves (made a niticable difference)

timing at 15 degrees (actually ended up just under 14 1/2)



This set up starts and runs like a stocker and delivered 17 mpg on a truck with over 200,000 miles on it. The pump will get balanced and turned up a little by PDR before it gets reinstalled. If the truck you're looking at has high miles, send the pump in and get it balanced and turned up, they will grind a plate and it will run better than just a plate kit.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I suggest buying the TDR back issue #23. I wrote a lot of stuff on power upgrades, etc. and it is still a good article imho on how to start the process.

 

[JBlackwell]

The truck is a 5spd. '94 so I been searching and it seems that it is a 175 pump. I will be putting in a rebuilt 5spd. w/ fully splined shaft and Southbend clutch when money allows. Probably get the truck and pull the front cover and check the KDP and bolts and change the crank seal first and then get the transmission and clutch when the money hits my pocket. The truck has 17*,000 I believe. I want some good power where I can leave the stock turbo and exhaust on (except straight pipe). Looking for 300rwhp and will be doing HEAVY towing.



Guess I will do some more researching and also get the #23 back issue of TDR. I have a few months, but it takes a while to do searching and all to find out what will best suite me. I also want some smoke (I love smoke) but I got to see if it is possible without high EGT's.



Thanks, for the help guys,

JD