Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) next upgrades, ditch ottomind??

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission stacked thru the camper shell

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Windshield Wiper Sticks

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hi guys, thanks for the info!



so i have a 98. 5 4x4 with a Banks power pak, just had a pro-torque low stall converter and a HD valve body installed.



I don't really like my ottomind box, that wire to the fuel pump thing, and it's been cutting out on me latley, lose both banks gauges as well. (checked all conections)



My question is, can i ditch the ottomind, get like a edge comp and new injectors and have it all be happy??

could i keep my banks gauges?? they are nice, but they seem to pulg into the ottomind...



i have been leaning toward edge comp,injectors, and maybe a bigger pusher pump???? do i need it with that combo??



Thanks so much for any help!!
 
Sorry no one has replied yet.



If the Ottomind plugs supplies the signal for the gauges, then you can't much use the Banks gauges without it. IIRC, the OM uses the EGT input to sense when to defuel, and similar for boost.



Personally, I prefer to keep all my stuff divorced from each other, that way if my pyro, for example, quits working, I only have ONE route to troubleshoot.



If you're not happy with the Bank$ setup, I'm sure there a sucker somewhere that would take it off your hands-- if you can do that in good conscience (which I couldn't).



So, as far as I know, the Banks system will not "share and play well with others", so you'll need to scrap the OM and gauges, then start over with a Comp or PMAX, some aftermarket injectors, and standalone gauges.



BTW-- knowing what I know now, I would have bought the pricey SPA gauges so I could get two-in-one and have fewer gauges to mount. The Westachs offer that, too, but I think their aircraft-style design makes them difficult to read and makes them look way out of place.



BTW-- the Comp and PMAX will also connect to "that wire to the fuel pump thing", so if tapping the wire is your complaint, then you're going to have to limit yourself to an EZ, Van Aaken, Power Puck, or similar timing box.



Whether or not you'd need a pusher pump depends on how much fuel pressure you get with all the bombs in. Personally, I could pull my FP down to 3psi with just 75hp injectors and an EZ. Instead of buying a pusher setup, I just fixed the resrictive fuel delivery sytem with a Wildcat Diesel (www.wildcatdiesel.com) max flow fuel system.



Now I have more then 12psi always, with my factory original LP and about 120 hp over stock:)



Justin
 
I had a Banks Stinger package. I replaced the Ottomind with the Edge Comp and added DD2s. I suggest you solder the pump wire.

I had a lot of trouble with the scotch lock connector and soldered the wire tap, no problems since, about 70K miles.

I still have all the original Banks gauges - working fine.



I got a fuel pressure gauge when I replaced the Ottomind and discovered low pressure. The pump was replaced under warranty, and I changed the banjo bolts to straight AN fittings. Fuel pressure is about 11 - 12 lbs at idle and cruising and will drop to 6lbs at WOT. Recently dynoed at 410 RWHP.
 
Last edited:
hey thax for writing me back,

hey Tom W, how did you keep your banks gagues??? can they plug into the edge?? i see you have a 98. 5 as well, how does it go with your setup??



thank you to justin as well!!! any and all info is great!
 
My Banks gauges did not connect to the Ottomind if I remember right - it's been a long time. The pyrometer and boost are standalone - I think later models connected for fuel limiting when EGTs got high. I an very happy with my present steup, now at 120K plus and still runs better than ever - gets 17-18 mpg around town 22mpg hyw.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top