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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) No Black Smoke???

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Technically, you can remove the afc and duct tape the pump to keep dirt out. That way you don't have to take it apart and reassemble it. I see that you changed all the rubber lines, which is good. The metal lines connect to the tank, run down the frame rail. Then there are flexible stainless braided lines that mount to the bellhousing, and the rubber lines you changed mount on the other side of these. The one area I don't remember is if there are rubber lines between the hard lines and the stainless lines.



Ok-re-read your posts. Where is the plate set at? Did you see any change with the timing adjustment? Can you see where the gov lever is hitting the plate? With the fuel solenoid in the up(run) position, move the throttle all the way and watch the plate to see that the gov arm that hits it doesn't get stuck underneath the plate.



Jordan
 
Ok-re-read your posts. Where is the plate set at? Did you see any change with the timing adjustment?

Jordan





The plate is set in the middle of the oblong holes, if I remember correctly. I didn't move it althe way forward.



What I noticed with the timing adjustment was the engine sounds like it has more of knock, a more distinct diesel sound. It seemed to stumble slightly on start-up compared to the immediate fire previously and no performance change. I have been contemplating if I rotated the engine the wrong way after driving it today (I've also been researching timing tools to do it properly).
 
I read you replaced the line going from the afc to the turbo. That is just a wastegate line.
When you get the boost guage rigged up plug that off.
If you havent already check the short line that goes from the head to the afc for cracks, holes, etc.
It can get rubbed through and you wont get fueling.

Also check to make sure your shutoff solenoid is pulling up completely. Start the engine, reach down and lift up on the lever.
 
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The plate is set in the middle of the oblong holes, if I remember correctly. I didn't move it althe way forward.



What I noticed with the timing adjustment was the engine sounds like it has more of knock, a more distinct diesel sound. It seemed to stumble slightly on start-up compared to the immediate fire previously and no performance change. I have been contemplating if I rotated the engine the wrong way after driving it today (I've also been researching timing tools to do it properly).

if its louder timings most likely advanced. The proper way to turn it looking at the engine would be counter clockwise if you popped the pump gear off and turned the engine back.
 
I got smoke!!!

The AFC is the culprit, 100%. I pulled it and the truck smoked black as coal. I will pull the AFC apart maybe tomorrow evening and give it a good once over and see if I can get it to work again. The line from the Head to the AFC looked good.



Now that I can fuel low, I can see that an auto without a GSK is really a dog. It seems to defuel before the turbo even thinks to spool. I don't have guages in this truck yet, so I don't know the boost, but by feel I would suggest less than 10psi at the most and acceleration was still anemic. I think the TC is eating it all.



Really, thanks to all those who have contributed. I was smiling big enough to almost laugh once I saw black smoke.
 
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Forrest Nearing said:
betting it's a torn/leaking diaphragm



Sounds like a good likelyhood. I'll post back once I tear it down. Is there a resonable source for replacement AFC parts? I can't say I've ever heard of anyone buying any.





Good work NKenny. Get some gauges in there before you get too crazy with it :cool:



This truck really has some past maintenance issues. I was pondering this morning whether guages come before mirrors and a replacement windsheild. My vote is guages!!!
 
Engine Model # 56174778



Here is the small tear in the AFC diaphram. It doesn't appear to go all the way through, but the seal was very poor around that area.
 
I will need it. Does your supplier have the gasket at the base of the AFC? Mine is in pretty poor condition, but I could probably make a gasket if necessary.



Thanks.
 
I got your pm, but had issues with the comp when I was trying to reply. The parts showed up yesterday and I'm gonna get them in a few minutes. Is your shipping address on your paypal account? I haven't used paypal in so long that I forgot how it all works. I'll prob have my wife do the transaction for me. Do you need to repace any of the break off screws? If so, let me know. I can get them in allen head or regular hex head. Black for sure, and maybe stainless. Let me know if you need anything else.



Jordan
 
Good reminder on the break off screws. I'll figure which ones when I get home. I was able to slot them and use a screwdriver, but an allen would be better to put them back on. I may choose to go allen for the other screws as well. I'll post back.



I pm'd my mailing address. I have moved since I set-up paypal.



Thanks.
 
So where is the place to order afc parts such as the diaphram?

With the afc off, how do you lift the solenoid, the ignition switch? Thanks

Tony
 
I wasn't able to get the parts through cummins, so I got them from the injection shop.



With the afc removed,(and soleniod too) just pull the linkage up by hand, then you will be able to check where the gov. arm contacts the cam plate.



Jordan
 
Thanks Jordan, I'm going to check it this weekend. Where should the gov arm be set? To adjust do you just move the torque plate? Thanks Tony
 
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