2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission No Headlights on '95 - Ouch!

[Ben Rumson]

Just got back from Wyoming (6 hour drive one way) and limped home the last 15 miles in the dark with only my park lights and hazard lights... ?



We thought the headlights lights were working because the dash lights and car-hauler trailer lights were working fine, but then people started brighting us as it got darker. No headlights!??!



When I pull the headlight know out the park lights came on, but the headlights would not come on. When I tried switching between low beam and high beam the lights would come on only while I had the turn signal arm 1/2 way between low and high beam (both on at the same time). Neither the low or high clicks on the turn signal gave any light when the arm was released - only when the arm was in "transition" between the low and high.



I pulled both bulbs and the driver's side bulb glass looks a little cloudy. The filament looks a bit pitted or corroded - but neither wire coil looks broken. Which would make some sense because I could get headlights to shine when 1/2 way between low and high.



The 40 amp fuse under the hood looks good.



Does this sound like just a bad headlight bulb OR would something in the headlight switch/pull knob assembly be shorting out?



We drove up in the dark (3 o'clock AM) and one a few occasions when transitioning between low and high the headlight "faded" or "flickered", but the headlights still worked. The problem must have gotten worse or terminally ill once we shut her down for the



The air vent just below the headlight pull knob on the driver's side smelled kind of "musky or smoky" on the way up, but no smell on the way back.



Note - I have my Reese Trailer Break running directly off of the battery through a 30 amp relay so as not to draw too much power through any circuit. The only accessories I have running from my headlights are my pillar gauges. No problems with either of these in over 80k miles.



Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

- Ben

 

[dezrat]

It's the switch

I had the same thing happen about five years ago. East of Cedar City on I 15 at night. Headlights just quit. Good thing it was on the interstate and not some narrow winding road. Just like yours,the hazzards worked and I made it back to the closest motel. No cops or I probably would have had to park it.

I bought a new switch from Dodge and installed it. End of problem.

It's a simple job on a 94.

 

[Ben Rumson]

Sounds like the same exact thing

I'm glad to see that your symptoms are exactly what mine are. This will sure take a lot of guess work out of fixing it. Dang thing could leave you stranded somewhere!



One more question... Headlight Switch Assembly.



Dealership wants $78, local nation-wide parts store wants $15, but indicated that it looked as though I would have to reuse the existing pull knob.



Did you have to scalp your existing pull knob when you got yours from the dealer?

 

[IWeiny]

Same thing here.



New switch was required. Mine did happen at night on a narrow winding roady. Luckily I was not towing at the time!



Seems like a bad thing to have go wrong.



Ira

 

[dezrat]

It's been awhile but I don't remember the knob being included.

I believe there was a recall on some of those switches after I had my experience. You might ask your dealer about that.

I would get the OEM switch myself but the aftermarket one might be OK. Take yours out and go compare them if you want the cheaper switch.

The area around the switch would get real warm with the lights on and nearly full dim. I have a dually so there are more running lights also. The new switch still had all the power flowing through it.

When I added the sport light setup later,I used relays to isolate the switch. That's what Dodge should have done in the first place.

It's not a hard job to replace the switch but I soldered my connections and that added some time.

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by Ben Rumson

Just got back from Wyoming (6 hour drive one way) and limped home the last 15 miles in the dark with only my park lights and hazard lights... ?



We thought the headlights lights were working because the dash lights and car-hauler trailer lights were working fine... .

Does your truck have the trailer light relay? As I remember, I had to take my 1996 3500 in for a recall to add a wiring harness overlay with this relay. If you're running the trailer running lights off the headlight switch, that could be what burned it up. Here's an excerpt from TSB 08-33-96:

WARNING: IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THE TRAILER TOW RELAY BE UTILIZED WHEN OPERATING THE TAIL & PARK LAMPS ON THE TRAILER. THE CURRENT CARRYING CAPACITY OF THE HEADLAMP SWITCH IS LIMITED TO THE LAMPS UTILIZED BY THE VEHICLE ONLY.

Rusty

 

[Ben Rumson]

I picked up the aftermarket for $15...

... it's made by Wells and looks identical to the OEM. Wells part number is "SW-1008 Headlight Switch". Pull know unscrews from the old switch and is reused on the new one.



Rusty,



Thanks for the TSB tip. I'm running my trailer break directly off the battery through a 30 amp relay. BUT I'm not sure how the running lights for the trailer are set-up. I've always just plugged in my 7-way and the trailer lights come on. I'll have to do more looking under the hood in the black box... humm?





I bought the truck used. The receiver hitch and 7-way connector look OEM, but the wiring harness that was supposed to be under the front dash for my trailer break to just plug into wasn't there. That's why I wired direct.



If the break wiring harness wasn't there... perhaps my truck isn't set up as outlined in the TSB you provided... . ????



I'll do some checking.



Thanks guys!!!!!!!

- Ben

 

[dezrat]

Check out recall #819. It explains the switch replacement. Also CSN # 820 which applies to your truck.

 

[redram]

Originally posted by dezrat

It's been awhile but I don't remember the knob being included.

I believe there was a recall on some of those switches after I had my experience. You might ask your dealer about that.

I would get the OEM switch myself but the aftermarket one might be OK. Take yours out and go compare them if you want the cheaper switch.

The area around the switch would get real warm with the lights on and nearly full dim. I have a dually so there are more running lights also. The new switch still had all the power flowing through it.

When I added the sport light setup later,I used relays to isolate the switch. That's what Dodge should have done in the first place.

It's not a hard job to replace the switch but I soldered my connections and that added some time.

When you added the Sport Lights, did you also add the Sport Front End?

Looking to upgrade the 96 to keep from wanting the 2003.

 

[Ben Rumson]

Thanks dezrat.



Actually, I've had the switch out once before when I switched the Cargo and Dome Light sequence. By switching two wires around, the first click is now the Cargo Light and the second click is the Cab Lights.



This works great when you're hauling down the Interstate in the dark of night and need to check on your load! The stock pattern makes it so that the Dome light comes on first and, once on, I couldn't see a thing outside because it was so bright inside. With the two wires switched, I now get Cargo light on the first click, and with the inside cab lights off, I can now see what's going on with my load outside and I'm not blinded.



Lemme know if this is something your interested in and I'll double check the wire colors in my notebook at home and let you know.



Basically, you switch one of the 7 or 8 primary wires (pink w/ Blue stripe - if I remember correctly - and it's in the lower corner) with one of the 2 wires on the secondary side of the switch (I wanna say white wire here, but I don't remember... I'll find out and repost).



Thanks for all your help. You saved me $62 vs buying the part from the Dealership and who knows how much time and money trouble-shooting. If your ever passing through Cache Valley and have the time, lunch or dinner is on me. PM me if you think you might be in the area and I'll give you my phone numbers.



Thanks



- Ben

Originally posted by dezrat

Check out recall #819. It explains the switch replacement. Also CSN # 820 which applies to your truck.

 

[dezrat]

Ben

Thanks for the thanks. Just glad I could help.

Bob





redram

I added Doug Holfeldt's Air Bulldog hood and Dam Air system. Looks great [IMHO] and it sure helps on intake air.

I will never sell my 94 so I just do not need a new one.

If I did want a 2004 however I would have to have the SRT hood and front end. I have a picture of one here in my office that I am always looking at while I am planning my next mod(s)

to my 94. Having too much fun with this one to start all over!

Bob

 

[Ben Rumson]

Update - Switch Fixed it !

Turned out to be a little more than a simple remove and install because the black plastic wireing harness that clips to the switch had melted all over the place.



I was able to chip away enough of the previously molton plastic from in and around the metal clips to get the new switch on, but I'm concerned that it had gotten so hot. Maybe it reached some critical mass/temp and then wnet downhill fast.



I checked in the PCD box under the hood and I do have a Trailer Tow 30amp fuse and a 30 amp Trailer Tow Relay as described in the TSB. I double checked the current to #3 on the 7-way both with and without the park lights on and it works as designed. I checked both the 30 amp fuse and 30 amp breaker and they are working fine as well. As best as I can tell, the Trailer Tow Package is factory OEM front to back.



I'm still concerned that the switch got so hot. ]



I did find however that my mechanic spliced into the light brown or tan wire on the primary side to get juice for my 3 Auto-meter Ultralite gauges. This is the only accessory running off of the switch.



Could 3 gauges have made that much difference?



If so, what other wire could I splice into to get juice to my gauges when I pull the headlight switch?



Thanks

 

[RustyJC]

Ben,



Glad to hear you're back in business. I don't think the gauge lights (assuming no shorts, of course ) would have anything to do with your problem - lots of us tie into the instrument panel illumination circuit for auxiliary gauge lighting.



Rusty

 

[Ben Rumson]

Thanks Rusty

I'm going to let her ride for the time being and see how it does.



I have 160k miles on it and maybe the switch itself finally gave up the ghost, shorted out internally, and caused the overheating. I'm guessing this is more likly the source as opposed to some other accessory drawing too much.



I am going to start dimming my instrument panel at night more than I have been so that there's that small added margin of drawing less voltage through the switch.



More important is that I find a wrecked '95 at the salvage lot and get me another wiring harness with about 6 inches of wire and replace the melted harness assembly. It's working "OK" for now, but I'm not willing to take another chance out on the road with the lights crapping out again.



In an emergency, I guess I could by-pass the switch entirely and splice whatever two wires were needed to get the headlights to work and buy enough time to get home for a better fix.



Thanks for the help Rusty!

- Ben

 

[RustyJC]

Ben,



I think you'll find that dimming the instrument lights will make the switch run hotter. That's because there's a rheostat in the switch that just drops the excess voltage (in the form of heat) when you dim the instrument lights. Give it a try by putting your hand on the dash at the switch when the lights have been dimmed for awhile and again when they are at full illumination.



Another one of those darned "gotchas"!



Rusty

 

[Ben Rumson]

Will do - Thanks!

Thanks for the added information. Gosh, there's alot to learn about everything. Wish I knew more about electrical stuff...



My latest "fling" was buying an oxy/acetelyene welder and torch set-up and I've been teaching myself how to weld. I've read 3 tech manuals on the subject and do "homework" exercises during the winter months to practice new skills. Very enjoyable hobby. I even found an old reference manual my grandpa used in his shop for o/a welding. He was real good at it. Something I'm trying to aspire to.



Again, thanks for the additinal help.

- Ben

 

[TRoss]

OK, this one is a throwback. I've been trying to track down some information on TSB 08-33-96. My truck came with the factory tow package and has a working brake controller (Tekonsha) hooked up from the previous owner. However, it did not have the Trailer Tow Relay in the PDC under the hood. Can someone explain this to me:

The overlay kit is erroneously listed in the 1994 New Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel Owners Manual(Publication No. 81-326- 9422)

Also, I had to buy the relay at the dealership today (no other parts stores could find it), and the guy at the counter swore that it was all I needed. Is it that simple, or do I also need to add a harness along with the relay? Please help me here, I've done a lot of reading, but I don't feel much more enlightened. Thanks in advance.

 

[WilsonF]

In your sig. it says your truck is an 03, I though the over heated headlight switch was fixed by then, but having a 96 12V I tend to concentrate on them. Take a look @ this site, allot of good information. You may want to add a relay system to your truck as I and many others have done.
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

Floyd

 

[TRoss]

In your sig. it says your truck is an 03

Maybe the thread is displaying weird, the post above mine says `03, I'm pretty sure I still have a `94 :-laf Thanks for responding though, I'll check out the link, but would still appreciate any responses.

 

[MLee]

If you'll notice Rumson's post are 03, he did have a 95-96 and sold it. His sig has been udated to an 03.