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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission No headlights??

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I'm Back with another problem.



My headlights do not work. I have daylight running lights, park lights work.



No dim headlights, no high beams either. The highbeams will work if you hold the signal switch back but it is probably just working normally through the daytime running light module.



The dash light switch has worked till now, the other night my dim lights worked fine, but high beams flickered a couple times then ok, then days later, I think my headlights didn't work but I jiggled the headlight switch and things worked ok, not sure if this was a coincidence or not. I'm thinking dash switch.



What do you think? Any way of checking for sure?
 
I would suspect the dash switch as well.



Since the power flow is the headlights are turned on regardless of high or low beam with the switch. High/ Low is controlled with the stalk, correct?



Dave
 
Because of the milage on the truck, I have had many electrcal issues of one sort or another, all lighting related issues have been coroded wiring due to crappy after market splicing (not mine ).

This one I was thinking a broken ground, but I think this is not the case as the driving lights work, and the headlights do come on high beam as long as I hold back the Signal/dim switch.



Comments?
 
I had a similar problem and it was the multi-function switch. . (hi/low/turn). Be prepared if you change it as there are tamper proof torx screws used to attatch the switch. I had to run out and buy a bit after I started tearing it apart. Got the switch at NAPA for around $70... I think.
 
Reno,



I would go with your dash switch,,,, I have seen a hand full of these you can get a new switch and pigtail come's together as a kit from dodge,, very smiple and quick repair.
 
Well I think I'll go with the dash switch first as it is probably the easiest and hopefully cheapest.



I'll let you know what happens.



Thanx guys
 
Go to summitracing.com and see if they have any headlight relay kits left. You will probably not melt another switch, and the first night you drive you will be surprised how bright the lights are.

david
 
Good idea on the Summit Harness. As I am late it appears for the $20 deal, does anyone know if the new $29 has all the relays etc.



Regardless I will be ordering one Monday, Thanks alot for the tip on this.



New dash switch ordered from NAPA $54 CDN, will arrive Tuesday. Hope it works cause the signal/dimmer switch is $170 CDN !!!!
 
Turbo Tim 1 said:
... I have the same exact problem with my 2001.
When you say exact problem are you saying that you have DRL? The problem described by Reno Guy without DRL is an easy diagnosis.
 
I found the problem, finally got around to replacing the multifunction switch and my headlights are back to normal. $45 at Autozone and it was exactly the same as the one I took out including the names on it and the Chrysler emblem on it. Darn tamper proof torx bolts are a pain in the butt though.
 
Good reply on the Dash Switch because mine (95 2500 Stock) got hot enough that i could smell the insulation starting to melt.

Next step is get ahold of "Summit Racing Products" and get there Head Light Harness.

Unplug the harness from the Head Lights in the truck.

Plug up the lights with the Summit Harness leads.

Plug up the Summit Harness to the Dodge Harness.

Find a good area to attach a Ground.

Find an area to mount the relays.

Hook up to the Battery.

This lets the Current (Load) go through the Relays and not the Dodge Switches.

Wish I would have done thios Years ago.

After this my dim lights are brighter than the Brights use to be

30-35$
 
what is involved in swapping the multifunction switch? do u need to pull the wheel/airbag off? my dad has been driving around holding his brights on at night.
 
I'm not sure if things are different for other years but on my 02 I took off the steering column cover. Two or four screws underneath. I cant remember at the moment. Then there are 3 tamper proof torx screws(with the little post inside). Remove those and unplug and replace. I had to run out to get the torx bit but apart from that it was about a 15-20 min job. It's been a while so hopefully I didn't forget any steps. I'm sorry but I don't remember the torx size. It sucks getting old... :-laf
 
Pretty much the same on my1995.

The 3 tamper proof torx screws (the Screw head has a post in the middle) so a a standard Torx Driver won't go into the Trox Screw. Make sure when you get the Torx driver that they have a hole in the Middle. They will work on both type Trox Screw.

Rex McKinney
 
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