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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission no heat from heater!

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oil Analysis

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Whats the next step??

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I have a 98 and my brother has a 96, in both of them anything below forty degrees outside you had better wear a good winter parka when traveling in either of them. I have checked my heater core and it is up to temp, my brother put a new heater core in his truck. Anyone know why these things are like mobile ice boxes? Or is this like a dodge trait.
 
Try covering half of the radiator up with something like a piece of cardboard and see if that makes a difference and also what range of thermostat are you running. If it is an old one that is possible stuck open, that could be your problem. Good luck. :(
 
poor heater

If your truck is like my 98 12v ,it's like driving a 1970 VW beetle,mine takes8-10 miles to get luke warm air,with the radiator covered except for a 8x8 square if it's in the 20's you can drive my 48 mile trip to work with the temp on hot and fan on speed 2 or 3 you will never have to take your coat off,i added a seat heater that helps in a couple of miles it starts to warm you up. I also switched to a 195 degree thermostat which helped a little. This winter I may go Fanless ,just not sure how the defroster will work ,will the head pressure get to high ? Tim
 
Removing your fan for the winter is the ticket.

Keeping the vent selector on the Recirc position until the engine is warmed up also speeds things up.

If you use cardboard make sure there is a hole in it right in front of the center of the fan. Covering half the radiator can cause the fan blades to weaken and break off.
 
Both trucks have new 190 deg thermostats. Ive covered the radiator, I wired the duct work so it reciprocates all the time, I have used a raytec to check the temp of the heater core (it was 190) I think it is pulling cold air from somewhere.
 
Removing my fan takes 3 minutes off and 1 minute on. I use a blunt air chisel on the nut with a quick blast and it loosens it and then it spins off easy. To re-install just thread it on 4-5 turns and start the engine and it spins on tight. It drops out the bottom unless you have an auto trans with cooling lines in the way.
 
illflem nailed it, you have to leave your air intake on the recirculation position. Be prepared to switch back and forth from recirc to defrost often. Also, Cover your radiator properly and/or remove your fan. I always drive with my window cracked when i am on recirculate so I don't fog up.



When it hits the single or minus digit temps here I always dress warm. The folks at work are amused that I wear a parka,snow bibs, boots, and a hat. It's actually very safe because I always have appropriate clothing along should I need to stop. I just grin when I think of how ill prepared some of the laughing clowns at work are when its cold. A cell phone won't keep you warm.

This summer I added heat to the seats and so far they have kept me out of the garb described above. Its only been down to about 14F but the seats seem to help my feet stay warmer. At anything below zero you are lucky to keep the windows clear and you had better be dressed for the cold. Traffic jams will bring my engine temp right down off of the gauge when its -10.



When they start talking ice storms I am going to toss my generator in the bed of the truck so I can defrost with an electric heater place on top of the console. As soon as I sign off here I am going to go prep my winter duffle bag... that 14 deg this morning felt cold!
 
Have you considered moving to a warmer location???



(Just kidding)



Do you have a block heater? If you do, keep it plugged in all night. It makes a huge difference on how fast your truck will warm up.



The problem with removing your fan or blocking off the radiator is if you forget to reverse the fix, or if you wait too long in the spring, you will be in deep doodoo!



A few years ago I bought a used truck and the previous owner had put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. He did not take it out when he traded it in and I didn't notice it until the truck had over-heated a couple of times. Cracked the fricken block!



Steve
 
When it goes way below zero recirc is the only thing that works. I've watched my temp gauge go from 190 or so all the way to bottomed out in just a few seconds when switching from recirc to outside air. These trucks run so cool that I doubt if they even need a radiator in the winter, just the heater core is enough to keep the temp down.
 
I never noticed how cold the cab was until this week. I was hoping to find an easy answer to make the cab warm up. It looks like a heavy coat is the only way. I have a winter front on the truck and its plugged in to a timer for the block heater and it barely defrosted the side windows on the way to work, a 30 mile trip. Is there an easy way to tell if recirc is working on the heater?
 
Casey, leave your control in any position other than recirc or off when you shut down. Soon as the noise dies down switch to recirc, you should hear what sounds like a door slamming.

Don't think the key needs to be on.
 
call me dumb but what position are you calling the recirc? mine seems to act the same, but mine will get warm for about 5 mins after 10 miles and then back to ice for the next 10. kin dof annoying as soon as you start to warm up you get cold agian.
 
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Its the one that has a arrow doing a U turn on the selector dial for the defrost/vent/floor. On my 97 its full counterclockwise position. This is the only position that doesnt bring in outside air that has to be heated but instead reheats inside air so it heats faster and warmer.
 
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