"no pcm" and no start

[SmokinJoe]

Hi All

Basically I am taking my truck out of storage, it starts then quits :

I go to start it up and I get a click, so I cycle the ignition a few times and then the starter kicks over, I crank about 5 seconds and she fires up, I let it idle for about 2 minutes and then I bump the throttle about 5x and it shuts off. I try to start and nothing. key the igintion 3x and I get "no pcm"

How can this happen?

 

[Road Dog]

I would assume dead batteries. Hook up a charger for a day or two and then load test the batteries.

 

[SmokinJoe]

the batteries are on the charger and in the truck. I did the screwdriver with the hot screwsriver on the starter and it rolled over like it had plenty of juice.

has anyone had the PCM rebuilt by this group neatcomputers.net?
https://www.neatcomputers.net/

 

[DavidC]

I would check the clutch pedal switch for operation then disconnect batteries and unplug PCM's, check for corrosion, dielectric grease, plug back in and see what happens. Weird electrical problems can happen when they sit.

 

[SmokinJoe]

I have had the batteries charging and had one replaced. I think that there may have had some snow and water over the winter in that part of the truck. Would I get the "no pcm" if the clutch switch was not working? All the rest of the truck works like the fob to unlock the doors, power locks windows and defroster. Are there other things I should be testing that would point at the PCM being bad? That place on eBay that said re-programmed PCM's were $99 just quote me $750 with a $200 core refund, so it is not $99 to repair it it is $550 and for that I would rather see if Rock Auto had it or my local parts stores.

I will do the clutch switch after work today, 5pm est

Thanks,
Joe

 

[DavidC]

No, the clutch switch will give you a no starter but not a PCM code. Didn't have any rodent problems you can see ?. I would check everything possible before investing in a PCM.

 

[SmokinJoe]

we do have them in Michigan, I will check the wiring harness tonight. seems odd it would start and then die if they at the wiring. I will make sure the PCM is grounded

 

[DavidC]

You will need a DC Meter (preferred) or at least a test light. You may have lost power to the PCM from the ignition switch. I would check power from the light green/blk to the blk/tan with the ignition switch. That same power feed also works the ASD (automatic shutdown) to the VP. I believe the wires are on C1 which is where your clutch pedal is also.

 

[SmokinJoe]

I had the turn signal stalk and maybe the ignition switch replaced I believe. I know the turn signal stalk was an aftermarket from the local repair shop and it is garbage, the hazzards did not work the last time I drove it in 2018 and I attributed that to the cheap turn signal stalk assembly.

 

[SmokinJoe]

so I re-mounted the PCM to the firewall and cleaned up the fasteners on both ends of the ground wire and added some conductive grease. Then I just get p ECU, I start clicking the ignition and pushing the clutch in and out and she fires up. So it was a gound issue and prolly the clutch switch from not being used.

 

[DavidC]

Well, that sounds good

 

[SmokinJoe]

you can't imagine. The rattle of a cummins compared to the 5.3 lease truck sounds like an orchesta! I am sure I am going to have a lot of parts to replace.

 

[DavidC]

Look at it this way, you can spend what you were going to for a PCM. I love the rattle, if you want quiet buy a gas engine.

 

[SmokinJoe]

I was straight piped for the first 7 years since it was new, man would it roar. When my brother took it to Florida to get a car I decided to have a muffler installed, it got rid of the drone as I did not have any changes to the long straight section. Now time for the sheet metal search, harmonic balancer, stainless steel break lines, newer tires, wheel bearing replacment and glass for the ARE Z serises topper. seat cushon and if I can leather skin for the drivers seat, armrest and the encoder for the steering controls. Oh yea, clutch, pressure plate and throout bearing and it will be ready for the next 10-20 years. I do want to upgrade the fuel system so I can run my COMP box but maybe I should just sell that and get something more modern. I would rather do all that then spend 65k on a newer one.

 

[DavidC]

Fluid Damper works well. Many will say to use this brake line as it doesn't rust
Amazon product ASIN B00651OAVSCheck genosgarage for seat stuff.