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No power and won't make boost unless in high gear and over 2000 RPM

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Oil pump housing failure, probable rebuild.

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PRV is pressure relief valve for the rail. Tall silver fitting right behind the air intake with a banjo bolt and line in the top of it. Right back of it towars the firewall is the rail pressure sensor.

I mistated the previous about the rail pressure gauge. It does use the OE sensor but does not read thru the OBD port that is subject to the ECU's massaging. Sorry that wasn't clear.
 
Still working on this problem. Did a smoke pressure test for air leaks and no problems. Fuel pressure looks good. 2 different shops point the problem to the wastegate actuator. They said it is leaking internally? I tried to wire it closed to build boost, but doesn't help. Since it is electronic, maybe the computer is doing something with the fuel because it sees a problem? I just don't want to buy a new one for $350 and find out it didn't fix it.

Anyone see this before?
 
If you are building boost in top gear, I would not believe the wastegate is the problem. I would be looking towards the rail pressure sensor, can you swap it out from another truck? It will take a large deep well socket to remove it (1. 25" maybe larger/metric).
 
It won't build boost in top gear unless you have the Smarty installed. Won't do it with just the stock program. Also, runs high EGT just trying to go down the road 1100-1300 just to get 55 mph and no boost.

I might be able to get another truck to steal the rail pressure sensor from if needed.
 
Smarty is boost fooling... I don't have an 06 so the electronic wastegate actuator is not something I have personally had to deal with. Doesn't it also have a sensor? That the Quad boost fooler was used for overriding. Seems I also read about being able to use a resistor across the sensor leads to keep it from telling the ecm to defuel. Maybe someone who has done this will speak up.

I would still swap rail press sensor if one is available to do the exchange, I also hate buying parts to chase down a problem, gets too expensive. Sounds like you may have an available donor truck, that's always helpful.
 
Pinch the boost reference hose on the turbo shut and see if it will make boost. Turn off the WG option with the Smarty.

You should be able to punch it well up into the mid 30's. WG controller won't defuel it, only overboost codes and the Smarty will fix that.

You might want to chnage out the MAP sensor as a fix, that will cause issues if it is not reading right in its range.
 
I changed out the PRV in the rail with a known good one. NO LUCK. I also pinched the waste gate hose with vise grips and jumped the lead to the electronic solenoid. STILL NO LUCK. The truck stumbles and blows lots of black smoke as if it is too rich. Also had another 05 just like it next to it. We checked the turbos in comparison. They spin the same by hand, feel the same with play, and they both take 9 seconds to quite spinning once you turn off the engine.

I am still thinking this truck has a bad ECM.
 
Any chance of finding out how this Cummins rubik's-cube turned out? After all the 'discussions' it would be instructive to "... . see the end of the movie. "
 
UNSOLVED YET. Took it to one shop and they told me it was the wastegate leaking off pressure. I did some checking and bypassed the valve with a paperclip, put visegrips on the hose and still had problem. Then I remembered that my buddy is a service manager at a Dodge dealer about an hour away. So, he told me to bring it down and he would take care of it. His tech started from scratch and the first problem he came to was no boost being made. Looked at the turbo and said the boost impeller looked like it had damaged and was rubbing. So, took the turbo off and brought it to me as he lives close by. I looked at it and said there was nothing wrong with it. I even took both housings off and checked it out. Nothing wrong. So, I gave it back to him about a week ago and they were suppose to put it back on and troubleshoot it more. I told them I am 99% sure it has a bad ECM when I dropped it off the first time. So, now they are suppose to check in to that for me.

Nothing like paying someone to work on something and you have already checked and ruled out these problems!!!
 
UNSOLVED YET. Nothing like paying someone to work on something and you have already checked and ruled out these problems!!!

Edited for brevity...



Thanks for the update.

Keep us in the loop when you get it 'figured'.

Nothing like reading a good 'novel' and not find out the 'ending'.

Not that it's 'good' for you... it's obviously bad for you... but interesting for us who are watching & waiting.



I've got a similar problem... but my truck is drive-able.

As long as I keep my foot out of the accelerator... . it drives fine.

As soon as I start to press harder... . I loose power and my injection pump pressure goes down from 18K to under 7k...

I've ordered some new sensors (IAT, MAP etc. ) so we'll see where that goes.

I think it's the fuel mapping that's out of whack because the only 'symptom' is lack of power when I press the go-pedal.

The truck's 10 years old... so it's time to start replacing sensors. . PRV's... . and other 'replaceables'.
 
This is an old post from DTR, but could it be something as simple as this?
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=81936

Thanks for the 'reference'. I read that post years ago and climbed under my truck and got to work with electrical tape & flex-conduit. After re-reading it...after you reminded me of it...I got back under and examined my old work and it was holding-up fine. No 'shorts' anywhere. As I crawled out from under the truck....UPS pulled up and handed me a package from Geno's Garage...and I got cracking installing two new sensors (MAP and IAT) and a fresh fuel-filter cartridge. Afterwards I took it for a spin and 'poof' !!! Problems gone....runs like the proverbial scalded javelina!!! The truck has been running so poorly for so long....I forgot just how good that puppy runs when it's all dialed-in. Scary...fun!
 
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