No Start troubleshooting help

[JDMills]

I Put my truck up for the winter, last November, and have just recently gotten around to wanting to drive it again.

problem is that it will not start. . no noises. So after consulting the shop manual, I have tested the battery, cleaned All of the connections in the engine room, managed to verify that the starter is not at falt.

The manual speaks to putting a jumper wire on the starter relay, between :BATT and IGN,and if no results are seen, to ground the Ground(?) terminal which is supposed to isolate the clutch safety switch. If, then there is no results the starter relay is at fault. So thinking I had this gremlin in the bag, I bought a relay. . still nothing. Have I missed something? and how would I go about continuing to trouble shoot this?

Also, how do I go about putting a signature on the end of the post? Is that what The attach file is for?

 

[JBournes]

Well

The sig on your pst is easy when you are in your user control panel got to edit profile and fill in the sig block. Now about the no start. Do you get any thing out if it, do your lights in the truck dim like the current is being drawn or is there nothing, if its nothing i would have to say it is in between the ignition and the starter, if it is dimming your in cab lights guages etc. it sounds like it would have to be a connection or the starter. Just another maybe turn the engine over by hand and get the flywheel to move, my g/f suburban wouldnt start one day so we took it off and had it checked the starter checked good so i put it back on and it started right up it must have just been jammed up and wasnt slipping in the teeth of the flywheel and wasnt engaging. Good luck maybe this will help if not ill keep thinking and looking





JEB

 

[DKasper]

I've had a no start condition on mine -- here's what I went through:

- Check to see if the starter relay is clicking when the key is turned. This relay is located under the hood on the drivers side, just ahead of the hood spring. It is the middle relay of the three. No click? Probably need new relay -- about $7 for dealer.



- If you have an automatic, the park/neutral switch is also a link in the starting sequence. This is located in the driver's side of the transmission -- it's about the size of a spark plug and has a wire running to it. There are 2 things that can happen here -- the switch goes bad, or the shift linkage gets enough wear on it that good contact is not made. Result is the same -- no start, though usually the condition will be intermittent for a while and not just all of a sudden never start. The linkage can be adjusted if it is the latter -- maybe put a new bushing in if the hole is worn to an oblong shape.

New switch is about $15 from the dealer.



- this might sound dumb, but is the battery good? I've had batteries go from no problems to non-functioning overnight.



I guess the ignition switch could have problems, but I personally have no experience with that one.



Other ideas guys??



Good luck!



Dave

'93 D350, Westach boost/pyro/trans temp, 16cm housing on its way -- let the boming begin!

 

[JLEONARD]

Other ideas guys??



Is there a "fusable link" in our system? If there is I'd look there especially if there's no audible click.

 

[JDMills]

Thanks for the response. There is no click in the relay... even after I put a new one in. So does that mean it is time to look at/for fuseable links?

When I turn the IGN on, the heater motor, radio, and accessories run, when The key goes to start, every thing gets quiet just like it is suppose to do. . Battery does check out as having 1025 CCA, and it was at 88% charged when tested.

This has been real helpful, as new Ideas get my mind out of the rut that it was running in ('what the heck, where do I go next')

I will go visit the truck tomorrow, and see if I can make some more distance on the problem. Actually looking forward to it.

JDMills

 

[opel]

There is a fusable link. It is right ahead of the grid solenoids. One big wire going in 2 small wires coming out. But always start with the obvious first. Assuming the battery is good, go with the following. Check connections at bat, also at starter. There is a plug-in at the pos terminal that also needs to be checked. Should be a brown and red wire if memory is right. This is where the power from the switch goes down to the starter. Use a test light to see if it lights in the start position. If does, go to the ign terminal on starter and see if the light lites also. If it does the ignition is ok. Then on to the starter. You can jump from the pos cable to the brown wire on the solenoid. If turns over the solenoid is in need of replacing again. You can also use an ohmeter to check the solenoid coil for resistance if you feel necessary. Also tap lightly on the starter with a hammer, looking for a stuck or dirty brush ( very likely ). If nothing, pull the starter and bench test. If ya need more info you can email me. Good luck.

 

[JDMills]

This information is great. If I get rained out with the outside projects, I have some new Ideas to work with. Hope to have a crack at it again by later today.

 

[JDMills]

Turns out the clutch safety switch, appears to be the culprit. I am new to attempting my own electrical repair, but it is satisfying to work the problem to a solution. would have given up with out everyones input. Thanks!!

 

[Paychk]

Carefully check the clutch master cylinder rod where it joins the clutch pedal, mine was worn so bad that sometimes the safety wouldn't't allow the engine to crank. The eye on the rod was worn almost in two.