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Noise Killer... dynomat, floormats, insulation

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HHhuntitall

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I'm looking at my '93 and what would work best for killing the transmission noise in the cab. Seems I cut a pretty good hole in the floor to put the NV4500 in, and the welded up floor hole is eminating some harsh vibrations... . :mad: I was thinking dynomat in the cab under the new floormat it needs, which I need to find, too, so any suggestions on either? Also, do the 4x4 auto transmission trucks have the big hump with no holes cut for the shifter? That'd be nice with no holes so I can modify it to fit for the NV.....



I was also thinking I'd cut a piece of heat shield off the firewall of a wrecked truck out back and stuff over the transmission. I don't want to cover the whole thing, just dampen the noise and heat headed up... :cool: I don't like the jacket I've got stuffed on top of the cup holder I've got screwed down up there... . it makes the truck look like a work truck :rolleyes:
 
Look in my photo gallery or in my crew cab thread. I put 200 sq ft into the crew, and a fair bit into the 90. Did double layer on the 90 under carpet and up back wall. Made a huge difference.

I found dynamat to be overpriced due to name. Look up fatmat on eBay. You can buy it in 50' long rolls for $100. You will be broke if you have to buy dynamat. Get the thicker ofthe two options.
 
Look in my photo gallery or in my crew cab thread. I put 200 sq ft into the crew, and a fair bit into the 90. Did double layer on the 90 under carpet and up back wall. Made a huge difference.



I found dynamat to be overpriced due to name. Look up fatmat on eBay. You can buy it in 50' long rolls for $100. You will be broke if you have to buy dynamat. Get the thicker ofthe two options.



Sweet, thanks for the tip!! I've seen the photos of the crew, and I've done it in other cars and such, but we did it for radio systems and to dampen vibrations. I was really hoping it would shield some of the heat, too. The back wall is definitely in need of something, especially in the extended cab portion!! The A/C never catches up in the summer!! Since then, I've been looking, and Partstrain.com sells a vinyl molded floor mat with insulation. It's supposed to be oversized with a little extra on the outside, and even asked me if I had an extended cab!! Nice, Superman blue color option on there..... ;) But IIRC you had carpet in the 90 didn't you? I'm gonna bet that's the original carpet, too... . the sand, heat, and time has eaten my rubber mats up. If I mat the back wall, I'm gonna have to carpet it to keep it looking right, though..... ugh, so many decisions... ... :D Now to eBay.....
 
Check out this guys products... very informative AND affordable.



I used their MLV on the transmission tunnel to reduce resonance of the panels, and also on the G56 aluminum casing itself (though I think that would be unnecessary on the much heavier NV iron transmission casing) when I had the G56 transmission out of my truck for a clutch change.

It worked GREAT to reduce noise in the cab... I only wish I had bought MORE of the foam and vinyl to add an ENTIRE additional layer to the oem noise blanket in the transmission tunnel under the cab while I had the transmission out. But I was NOT going to delay reinstallation of the transmission just to get more noise reduction. I nstead all I did was cover the shift tower opening in the cab with it, and like I said, it helped ALOT !!!



You have a GOOD idea... buy the stuff, and enough of it, to do the job under the truck while the transmission is out.

The site is also very informative and affordable.



Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information
 
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Oh, that's awesome, too!! I definitely think that's the way to go on the back single sheet steel sections of the cab and under the back windows. It would look pretty good without having to paint it(the closed sell or the MLV, that is)..... gonna have to be glued in, though. Gotta have something to hold it together while the engine wears out!:D That's the beauty of Dynamat(or fatmat, now). It's adhesive so it helps hold the panels together!!! He he he.
 
did you use anything to insulate the cab other than the fatmat for sound control. i'm looking for solutions for a overloaded a/c system. a mega-cab has to much volume and window area for the a/c to cool properly.

am thinking of pulling the cab/roof liner down and putting something between the metal and liner. suggestions???
 
did you use anything to insulate the cab other than the fatmat for sound control. i'm looking for solutions for a overloaded a/c system. a mega-cab has to much volume and window area for the a/c to cool properly.

am thinking of pulling the cab/roof liner down and putting something between the metal and liner. suggestions???



If you go to the link I posted above, you will see that 3M now makes a "Thinsulate Acoustic" material that I believe is BOTH a sound and heat insulation that apparently works very well for mobile applications.

Please note that I personally have NOT use it and it is also quite expensive, but if you do an internet search on it, you will see that people are using it in expensive boat and airplane applications. If it is TOO expensive, and you do not want sound insulation on the cab ceiling, why not use regular Thinsulate or Ultra Thinsulate, which has an R-value 20% higher then regular Thinsulate



Don, at soundeadener.com, will also likely be able to help out with info, though I think that he is reorganizing his website and may well be behind on email inquiries. If you PM me, I can try to find his phone # from a reciept that I have somewhere.
 
Sweet, thanks for the tip!! I've seen the photos of the crew, and I've done it in other cars and such, but we did it for radio systems and to dampen vibrations. I was really hoping it would shield some of the heat, too. The back wall is definitely in need of something, especially in the extended cab portion!! The A/C never catches up in the summer!! Since then, I've been looking, and Partstrain.com sells a vinyl molded floor mat with insulation. It's supposed to be oversized with a little extra on the outside, and even asked me if I had an extended cab!! Nice, Superman blue color option on there..... ;) But IIRC you had carpet in the 90 didn't you? I'm gonna bet that's the original carpet, too... . the sand, heat, and time has eaten my rubber mats up. If I mat the back wall, I'm gonna have to carpet it to keep it looking right, though..... ugh, so many decisions... ... :D Now to eBay.....


Yes. It also does heat. I noticed a huge difference in the summer now with the ac. I also run a ACC rubber and insulated matt. Also helps but had that there already for 10 years so can say the rattle trap made a huge difference.


Carpet in both trucks are replaced with ACC.
 
I recently did a little upgrading to the '91. I pulled the floor mat and found the floor pans starting to pinhole.

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I coated everything heavily with rustoleum paint, and then riveted and used industrial adhesive glue to put in some new sheet metal.

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I then put a layer of Fat Mat Rattle Trap sound deadener on the floor, back wall, outer and inner doorskins, etc.

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Here's about the best picture of the back wall that I have. I used some automotive type carpet I got at WalMart for $9 and applied it with 3M spray adhesive. From past experience, this carpet is hard to vacuum, so it doesn't work well in traffic areas... otherwise, it does great.

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I sprayed some rubber undercoating on the entire bottom of the cab, installed 40oz padding over the inside flooring and then a thick vinyl cover.

I would say the results are very noticeable for the amount of money/time that went into it. The doors shut remarkable different, with a very low "woompf" solid feel.

I know that they make heat reflective mat that can be used over/under soundproofing mat. Fat Mat also makes a better product that the Rattle Trap. In addition, I researched a clear film heat barrier coating once that can be applied like window tint to glass surfaces. I probably still have a link to that if you're interested.

All in all, this truck rides 110% better after doing this and the suspension upgrades.

Sometime in the future when I run out of things to do, I think I'll try some of the new hydraulic body mounts :)

--Eric
 
I recently did a little upgrading to the '91. I pulled the floor mat and found the floor pans starting to pinhole.





Sometime in the future when I run out of things to do, I think I'll try some of the new hydraulic body mounts :)



--Eric



Beautiful!! Was that in your "Improving the ride thread?" I missed it if it was..... That's what I need, right there!! Any insulation would be better than what I have now. But mine's an extended cab, so it's even worse with the rear cab having straight sheet metal to the outside under the rear windows!! Probably not an issue, once I get all my gear and tools stashed, as I'll have it all blocked off anyway, but I'd still like to do it right before I get it loaded down. I got the front springs done, steering linkage, and mechanically, she's ready to go. I think I want to install tool boxes behind the rear axle in the bed, as it's already got some in front of the axle. Seems like wasted space, to me..... but right now I'm gonna work on the cab, it's so hot, it's the focal point. I don't think I want carpet, though. The grassburrs are so bad where I keep this truck, they'll matte up in it like ticks on a hound!! You pull more of the carpet out of trying to get 'em out than you do if you leave 'em in!! I'm thinking I'm gonna try to hang some of the close-cell foam like the link above on the back window, and put my speakers in boxes under the rear windows. Seems more than enough room for some 8"s and 4" on each side!!



I covered my pinholes with the Oriely's brand of bed liner by Coverlay. Decent for the price. I double applied it inside and out, and no leaks thus far. Mine weren't pitted near as bad as yours, though. Is that just a replacement pan you just glued down from a bodyshop?



I really think I'll just tint my windows. I'd rather do that, anyway, to keep anyone from looking in at what I've got behind the seat, or beside it... unless they're looking down the barrel of it... ... . :D



If you're like me, you'll never run out of things to do, as just about the time you really need to be working on something else, you'll break this one..... :cool: Sometimes, I think Murphy was an optimist... .
 
Beautiful!! Was that in your "Improving the ride thread?" I missed it if it was.....

Yup! I think I at least mentioned it in there.

Seems more than enough room for some 8"s and 4" on each side!!

I had some old speaker brackets laying around from an '80s model Dodge that fill up the space in the back cab corners. The hold a 4 x 10. I got some Audiobahn 2-way 4x10s with external crossovers and they sound pretty good back there! ... and then of course a pair of 10" Audiobahn subs in wedge boxes behind the seat to help with the low end grunt :)

I don't think I want carpet, though.

I'm not a big fan of carpet either. I only went with it on the back wall because I don't walk there! Rubber/vinly for the floor is the only way to go for me.

And speaking of things to do... I really think I could retire right now and work full time at home for 5 years and still not be caught up! ;)

--Eric
 
ACC Rubber? Dealer, material? More info, please... .



Auto Custom Carpets. They make replacement carpets for muscle cars and have branched to everything else as well now. I knew them from my Mopar background so ordered the 90's carpet back in 02 and its still in there. The crew's carpet is still in shipping box. LOL



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--Eric



Wow! Looks like my truck when I did it!



Thought for a moment is was my truck!:-laf:eek:
 
Is that just a replacement pan you just glued down from a bodyshop?

I was re-reading things and saw I forgot to answer... the pieces of metal were actually from an old road sign or something similar. I sheared them and broke it to fit the angle.

I got my rubber/vinyl floor from JC Whitney.

--Eric
 
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