2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Noise reduction effort update

[Cummins Thunder]

Removing the headliner is simple... Just remove the overhead console (if equipped), the visors, the grab handle (if equipped), and then the coat hangers in the rear.



I have had the whole interior out of my truck, with exception of the dash.

The truck is certainly quieter, but I want to kill more of the clatter, because it is now much more noticeable with much less exhaust and road noise.



I am trying to find the pictures of my truck totally stripped. Pretty cool looking with all the silver heat barrier. I have DynaMat Extreme (doors F&R, back wall, and rear pilars) , and R-Blox (roof, a-pillars, glove box (kills some blower motor noise), floor (triple thick).



Currently I am wanting to try a DynaMat product called DynaPad, I am also getting ready to add a second later of DynaMat to the rear wall.



CJ

 

[rubberneck]

CUMMINSTHUNDER have you tried the dynaliner? I am planning on putting 1 layer of extreme everywhere i can and then dynaliner on the floor and back wall. It is has a layer of lead sandwitched between 2 layers of foam. total about 1/2" thick. Im really hoping this stuff is as good as it cost.

 

[Cummins Thunder]

Don't have any of that YET...



A bit of advise for purchasing your DM Extreme (genuine DynaMat!), Ebay!!! I picked up a couple cases for $120(each) shipped

 

[Cummins Thunder]

I am once again on noise patrol

The steel ring is an adapter because the muffler is 4. 5".

It is very very close to stock noise level Now I just need to do something about the roaring mud terrains.



CJ

 

[jkidd]

What was the consensus on noise reduction, at 60mph how much change if I was to do lead sheeting and the poor mans dynomat on the floor, and foam in the engine bay? I have stock exhaust. is 5 Db drop possible?



spending $200 and a day to quite things down some would be nice.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

noise reduction is awesome!



I just installed two rolls of raammat in my 98... that 6" tailpipe was talkin' to me! resonance is much quieter!



I could install a muffler, but I just can't... ya know?

 

[Lsfarm]

JKid, if you have a few minutes just do the back wall of the cab, that is a fast quick improvement. I'd do the firewall and heater intake trough next, then the floor.



The floor allready has some insulation, so the biggest improvements are in the areas that have no current noise insulation.



Lsfarm

 

[jkidd]

thanks, I will direct my attention to the front and rear then.



lead + liduid nails, then flashing 2 layers for the rear,



then foam stuff for the front???

 

[GiesJ]

How are you NR guys doing?

Anyone try this - QuietRide Solutions -=Firewall and Auto Insulation solutions for new and classic cars =-

jason

 

[GiesJ]

No one try Quietride?

 

[samiam44]

wow what good stuff! I might add a few points not metioned.

Other than adding mass to a panel, you can up the natural frequency by adding a panel breaker. This really doesn't have to be much and I have been thinking that it would be effective on rear panel or inside doors. The lead dampening makes a good point, but if you google around, you will also see decoupling MLV and curves. Decoupling is less effective in the 20-100 hz, but at higher frequencies it is efffective. Most high-end cars use a mix of : mass loading Butyl, undercoating, absortion, reflectiion,etc.
Debaulk myth: WHen this was written originally, there were no MB diesels which used double wall valve covers or exhaust tubing. They used pre-chamber motors with mechanical injection and give up effieceny for quiet. Meaning it needs more heat for the charge in the prechamber which is higher compression ratios. So this goes above the ideal 16-17:1. I think they were 23:1.
I think all the body heat shields reflect sound from exhaust, the lower body panels absorb and deflect.
What glue did ppl use for their oil pans? I was going to use MIL-PFR-8802 as its heat and oil resistant.


Michael