Non ram power reccomendations

[Jgolden]

My Cummins 5. 9/160 is in a front engine motorhome (12,000lb)Allison 4spd, I have been studing the info here and it is great. My questions are:

Since I am fully loaded when moving how would that change the usual power increase reccomendations?

I don't have he same access to the pump that Ram owners have(some things easier some harder) I would probably have to remove the powrer adjustment screw to get the collar off. Pretty close there for me. Not clear on how to keep from losing original setting and still be able to remove it. Appreciate any advice. Getting the gauge set and have changed all filters. (aux Walbro elec pump delivers fuel to lift pump from rear tank. )

Definetly no power on road.

Thanks any advice.

 

[Philip]

I didn't see anything listed in your signature for gages. Before you try anything. I would reccommend getting at least a prometer on the rig first. You need to know the base line of the engine before cranking up the fueling level.



Now that the safety issue has been stated. When you go to remove the fuel screw to remove the collar. Mark it and count the turns it takes to remove it. The just screw it back in that far. It will get you close enough to your stock setting.



Being it is a 90 model engine it most likely has the 21 cm exhaust housing. I would reccommend going to something smaller. Around a 18 cm at least.



You are not intercooled eather. So that will limit the amount of fuel you can throw at the engine also. Do the pro and a boost gage first to get base lines.

 

[Jgolden]

Thanks, I do have the gauges, and today I was given a shop manual so that should help, at least the pictures are clear. First I'll get the fuel screw out and the collar off. Thanks again.

 

[dpuckett]

If your power screw has a hex end, take a 6mm box wrench and use it to turn the screw in instead of the usual flat screw driver. THe collar is on loose enough, relatively speaking, to pop back a thread or two as you crank on it.



THat said, if it is nonIC, it could be either a 21 or 18 cm housing; I've heard tell of both, depending on the original app for the engine. Get a 16, or port the snot out of an 18 with a Dremmel tool. The thread on porting and polishing touches on housing porting. It does work to increase spool up, yet allow your top end breathing. AFter turning up the full power screw, you may want to adjust your AFC settings to cut bottom end smoke.



After that, get a 40psi boost gauge to compliment your pyrometer.



Happy BOMBing.



Daniel

 

[Jgolden]

Thanks, it is a hex, so I'll check for movement. Most of the upgrades as I search seem to be "around town" effect low end or "loaded" top end. I'm starting to sort for the top end posts. Also hope to hook up with folks here in the North East.

 

[dpuckett]

Governor spring should help out your top end. But remember, it takes fuel to make power, but you'll probably still be way ahead of the game compared to a gasser.

 

[JLEONARD]

Also hope to hook up with folks here in the North East.

I'm located in NW Ct, don't know how close that is to you, but if it's within your driving distance I can be available one day to help you tweak a bit.

Also check out the local and regional threads... . we get together on a fairly regular basis.

Jay

 

[Jgolden]

jleonard, Thanks thats a pretty generous offer. I'm not far from Albany When I get a little farther into it I might take you up on the offer, especially if it ever starts to warm up around here. Thanks again

 

[JLEONARD]

Thanks thats a pretty generous offer.

Not so generous really... ... you're bringing the beer!!!!



Jay

 

[Jgolden]

Sounds good, since my rig has a refrig, just for that purpose.