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Noob, Looking at an '02...checklist?

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alignment

Newbie MegaCab "On Train In Texas";some questions.

Newbie, drinking from the firehose here. My Dad has an early 1st gen. Finally time to get my own. Found an '02 HO 6 speed, QC, SB, 4x4, 74K mi. It is owned by the local Park-n-Steal. Aside from the obvious used car items to check... here's the special list so far...



Fuel system mods/signs of lift pump replacement/in tank pump? (how do I tell?)

Signs of ECM mod or chip? (again, how do I tell?).

Check for engine error codes.

Check front end; track bar, u-joints, ball joints (as much as possible. maybe the salesman will rock the steering wheel for me while I lay under the truck?!)

Build date... no CAD after 1-4-02? (is this good or bad?).

Signs of water leak at grab-bar?

Is there any chance it is a "53" block?

What else?



Carfax is clean...

How important is it if the engine is covered with greasy grime?

How significant is it that it doesn't have the factory tires, and they have about 50% treadwear?

Is there any factory warrenty left on this?



The list of used manual transmission CTD's in this city (Anchorage, AK) is short, but I don't gotta buy this truck. I'll try to give it a good going over next week, and if it checks out, make them a more reasonable offer (already offered 17K and they turned it down... :-laf ).



Thanks,

John



BTW, not into pulling. Login name from my e-mail is a reference to snowmobiles... may need to change that.
 
check for crimped wires on the injection pump, non factory fittings/clamps, or connection plugs that look cleaner than others. probably not a 53 those tend to be 2000 and older. try to get the lift pump tested. cycle the key three times to get codes. engine has 5/100 on powertrain from date of original purchase. hope that helps.
 
I doubt that it is a "53". Check the block to see if it is stamped though. I would also check: rear end fluid, how tight the wheel is on the turbo (up and down/in and out), how rusty it is under the body and under the hood, if the 4x4 engages/disengages nicely. As far as the non-original tires, I wouldn't be too suspicious. I have always bought new tires with a new truck simply because the originals are a little too small and the tread isn't very aggressive. I would check to see if they are cupped or if they are wore really unevenly though. If they are, that'll be a couple hundred bucks for alignment work. Hope this helps, good luck shopping.
 
Don't worry about the grime, it is a by-product of the crankcase vent location. As stated above look for possible tap on VP (black tape repair on wire harness). The CAD is nice but there are after market hubs available. Get a schrader hose and a 30 psi gauge to take with you. Check pressure at VP and filter. Make sure coolant is clean and not oily. Look for discoloration of the turbo, it should be silver, not copper colored. Good luck! Mike
 
I thought about trying to get a gauge to test the LP, but where from, and do I get any good info? It may be "ok" at idle, and sub-standard under load, right?



I tried the t-case first time I looked at it. It shifted in and out good, but didn't disengage the front axle right away. Had to reverse to get the CAD out. It was dry pavement, and I turned a tight corner in 4x...



Whats a set of rotors and pads, front and back, run for one of these, if anyone has it handy. Gonna need that fairly soon.



thanks for all the help so far...



John
 
JamesThomas said:
check for crimped wires on the injection pump, non factory fittings/clamps, or connection plugs that look cleaner than others. probably not a 53 those tend to be 2000 and older. try to get the lift pump tested. cycle the key three times to get codes. engine has 5/100 on powertrain from date of original purchase. hope that helps.





Side note: My '02 came with a 7 year / 100k miles on powertrain from date of original purchase.



Casey
 
Ok, I've located schraeder valve adapters locally. So I can get those, and hose barbs, and a little fuel hose, and a fuel gauge somewhere, and check the lift pump idle pressure. Sure would be nice to figure out how to test the lift pump under load.



Priced brake parts online at Napa... WOW! New rotors/pads and e-brake shoes... about $750?! Alrighty then...



Gonna go check it out tomorrow... any more stuff?



Thanks,

John
 
Ok just updating my list for another truck. Here it is, in case anyone else wants it...

John



Fuel system mods/signs of lift pump replacement/in tank pump?

Signs of ECM mod or chip?

(crimped wires on the injection pump, non factory fittings/clamps, black tape on

wires, or connection plugs that look cleaner than others)

Check for engine error codes. (key on 3x).

Check front end; track bar, u-joints, ball joints, steering gearbox, treadwear.

Build date... no CAD after 1-4-02?

Signs of water leak at grab-bar?

is it a "53" block?

Check coolant and oil.

turbo discolored? (it should be silver, not copper colored. )

Turbo wheel tight?

diff. fluids?

Bump starter, listen for lift pump. check pressure (about 11 psi?)



Drive test;

Starts easy?

Shifting?

Transfer case/4wd?

Front end tight?

Shocks ok?

Accelleration?

Lift pump maintain press. under hard load?
 
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