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Northern Tool aux tank/toolbox for SB

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Considering placing an order for their 60 gal tank/toolbox combination. dimensions are 59L X 21 W X 20H. question here is,, do they cut away for the wheel wells on this model as the bed floor space is only 18" fom the front of the box to the wheel well. Called but didn't get much of an answer from order taker. thanks for any responses. :p
 
I dont think the 60 gallon model will fit. BTW What method do you plan on using to link the transfer and you oem tank. I am considering the transfer tank, but I dont want to deal with electronics or switches. I was thiunk some sort of ball type valve that would not allow the tank to overfill.
 
Ben:



Just plumb the tank into the vent line going from the filler to the tank. You can use a ball valve if you want to manually control or add an electric solonoid (NAPA single in and out from older right/left duel tank setup)valve with switch in the cab to refuel on the fly.



With no pump pushing you will not over run the main tank. It just quits flowing when the main tank gets full and your fuel gauge will show FULL.



We do NOT have any extra inline filters as everything runs through the main tank and primary filter system.



The only other thing I can suggest if one has a choice is to design the intank to pull fuel for as close to the bottom as you can. This keeps the tank clean, water free.



I have run over 8,000 gallons through mine setup this way.



jjw

ND
 
height and clearance

If the box runs too much in depth to fit between your front wall and wheelwells consider blocking it up. The extra height rides higher and further back on the wheel humps.



Something to consider



-John
 
i am currently running this tank in my truck,however, mine is a longbed... . i started with gravity feed,and when i found that too slow to transfer,i purchased a Purolator 12v solid state fuel pump at PEP BOYS for $29. 99... it flows 35 gal/hr and works like a champ!!!!... . install is a snap,just a 2 wire hook-up,ground and 12v. ,,AND it only draws 1. 5amps MAX... normally 1. 2amps. . i still have a 12v selector valve in front of the pump,AND a ball valve in the bed for manual shut-off... . oh yea... i DO have a filter before the the selector valve..... ;) . good luck!!!... . tom:)
 
Thanks guys for your responses. My last box (ProTech) had reliefs cut in it to provide for the wheel wells. There is 18" from the front of the bed to the front edge of the wheel well on this truck. One more question: where do the mounting tabs for the tank line up? (on the outside of the frame rails I hope) Would rather not lift the box/tank as that would require support across the bottom of tank to avoid cracking. My intent is to mount the tank on neoprene pads and spring load mounting bolts. Maybe someone who has one of these tanks in a shortbox PU will have a measurement or better yet a photo.



;) ;) ;)
 
Seems to me there was more than 18 inches from the front of the box to the wheelwells, but you probably already measured it.



I put a 65 gal tank in my shortbed, and there is a few inches to go to touch the wheelwell.



I also decided to keep it simple and used a manual valve and gravity feed from the drain of the tank into the vent tube of the original. Works fine, just takes along time to transfer. I found that if I forget & leave it transferring (overfilling the main), it will leak slowly out of where the filler neck connects to the main tank. I lost about a gallon learning to be more careful.



Its sure worth it having the extra capacity. It gives you lots of flexibility.
 
I'm about to do the same, scraped the refeer tank idea due to lack of quality used and $$$$ for new. Bought a DeeZee aux. tank, aluminum diamond plate, 110 gal. for $600. Perfect dimensions for me as I wanted to keep my toolbox in the bed for the winter. This tank is 48"L x 24"H x 24"w, so it just fits between the wheel wells. I had to have a shop weld up another 3/4"NPT female drain at the rear of the tank, as it came stock with a side drain. Planning on running it with a ball valve and 3/4 line into the vent/overfill line.



Question... do you think a water/fuel seperator filter would be needed ? Just wondering if I might encounter a problem with the metal tank during winter. I plan on filling it once per week, I only use about 20-25 gallons a week normally. I'll add my Stanadyne PF right to the big tank. Any need for a biocide ???



Scott W.
 
Problem I have with reefer tanks is, they are supported by the wide straps that help to spread the load. If you turn them over and let them rest on the brackets, you don't spread the load the way they were engineered.

In regards to the moisture problem, warm fuel + low outside temperatures = condensation. . This is the reason most contractors fuel up every evening to stop water collection in the bottom of the tank.



So the short answer would be a water separator, if you are not going thru a lot of diesel. Fuel stablizers work but require that you dose regularly. Wholesale fuel suppliers will often times give you a small tube of paste to check for water.
 
I to have been looking at aux. tanks from northern tool. If the dimensions they give are right I am not sure it will fit. When measuring the bed I have exactly 18" from the front of the box to the wheel wells at the bed floor. The other problem is height. When measuring at the top of the bed (which extends into the bed) there is only approximately 16. 5". Maybe call Northern tool and get a phone number for the manufacturer.
 
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