Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Max,
I used to race and tune 5. 0 Mustangs years back until the Speed shop went out of business and finally my car got stolen. I ran a hefty single port nitrous system in it and it was way hotter than what we're using with the diesel. The propensity for a nitrous solenoid to stick wide open wasn't so bad..... The gas one was the problem, as dirty fuel could stick it wide open. I have done tests with the nitrous oxide and it puts the flame out on my otherwise useless zippo (used only to check for a customer's accidental fillup of gas in their diesel... if a drop of their fuel burns on my metal table it has gas in it). Nitrous by itself, as in the diesel kit, is nonflammable. Combine it into the combustion chamber and it will react with extra fuel, by splitting the two nitrogen molecules and freeing the oxygen molecules attached to them, using the oxygen to catalyze the fuel and burn it and giving off the nitrogens as a by product. Combine it with propane and it is dangerous at even room temperature. Diesel is different. It needs to be fully atomized to burn, let alone burn at ambient pressure and temperature. This is where we have our advantages over the gassers.
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It's been nice sharing the info with you. You can get the Bosch Diesel Injection book at Barnes and Noble or lookup www.bn.com on the internet and search for the book. It's as dry as they get, but very informative.
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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program
I used to race and tune 5. 0 Mustangs years back until the Speed shop went out of business and finally my car got stolen. I ran a hefty single port nitrous system in it and it was way hotter than what we're using with the diesel. The propensity for a nitrous solenoid to stick wide open wasn't so bad..... The gas one was the problem, as dirty fuel could stick it wide open. I have done tests with the nitrous oxide and it puts the flame out on my otherwise useless zippo (used only to check for a customer's accidental fillup of gas in their diesel... if a drop of their fuel burns on my metal table it has gas in it). Nitrous by itself, as in the diesel kit, is nonflammable. Combine it into the combustion chamber and it will react with extra fuel, by splitting the two nitrogen molecules and freeing the oxygen molecules attached to them, using the oxygen to catalyze the fuel and burn it and giving off the nitrogens as a by product. Combine it with propane and it is dangerous at even room temperature. Diesel is different. It needs to be fully atomized to burn, let alone burn at ambient pressure and temperature. This is where we have our advantages over the gassers.
#adIt's been nice sharing the info with you. You can get the Bosch Diesel Injection book at Barnes and Noble or lookup www.bn.com on the internet and search for the book. It's as dry as they get, but very informative.
------------------
Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program
