Not happy with my Di-Pricols!!!

[boonsur]

I thought Di-Pricol was going to come out with an EGT gauge to match their boost/pressure gauges. Is this a dead issue?

 

[nickleinonen]

they did, and that white dot in the center version is the matching one...

 

[Elite1]

Originally posted by Dean Upson

This is a picture of the egt gauge at night from CATCRACKER's album:



#ad






and these are mine:





#ad




Dean

Dean, is that a GPS unit on your dash? What brand & how do u like it?

 

[Dean Upson]

Originally posted by Elite1

Dean, is that a GPS unit on your dash? What brand & how do u like it?

The GPS is a Garmin Street Pilot III and I love it. It is very portable and easy to use. They have just come out with a new model and you can do pretty well on the price, the only thing is that they have also updated the MapSource software you should try to get the new version with the unit, otherwise it is $150. The previous software was great, but the new one has more in it, notably more Canadian Cities. Besure to get the deluxe version as it has more goodies with it.



Dean

 

[Wiredawg]

How To Solve Brightness Problem

Guys:



You can solve the brightness problem of your Di-Pricol EGT gauges by wiring the lights/LEDs differently. Connect them in series instead of parallel. Take on lead of the the lamp and wire to dimmer control, connect the other lamp lead to the Bat lead of the the LED and then connect the other LED lead to ground. This will reduce the brightness of the lights.



Although the EGT gauge is different than the boost and trans temp gauges, I do like them.



Hope this helps y'all who don't like the brightness of the EGT gauge.



Wiredawg

 

[GSchneuer]

Not happy with my Dri-Pricol's

For all you guys that are unhappy with your Dri-pricols, the custmer sevice # is 1-800-398-6590 and ask for Prab. Hope this helps.

 

[BKunic]

Not to stir the pot, but after seeing Dean's photos I'm now sold on the Di-Pricols! That looks like a good enough match to me. When I order them I'm going to make sure that I get an LED lit gauge.



Anyone know how I can locate a shop that will do a good installation for me? As a general rule, will shops that work on the 18 wheelers work on a CTD?



Bryan

 

[SRadke]

Where are you located Bryan? Sombody will have a suggestion of a shop near you. 18 wheeler places would be a good start.



-Scott

 

[BKunic]

Scott,



I'm in Hollister, CA, just east of Salinas, about an hour south of San Jose. Actually, a few days ago I posted a thread trying to get a recommendation of a shop but got no replies. I might beat the bushes over in Salinas as there is alot of trucking activity over there. I just want to be sure that they have experience with the A-pillar installation on the 3rd generation trucks so it turns out good. I don't want to be the guinea pig.



I've got the 5 spd. manual and (seeing as this is the Peoples Republik) the SO. I want the EGT, boost, and the more I think about it, a transmission temp gage as I'll be pulling heavy loads during the summer. Figure it won't hurt.



Thanks for the good posts,



Bryan

 

[SRadke]

I sent your gauge query back to the top for a second try. I opted to put the gauges on my 03 in the dash rather than on the pillar. I had pillar gauges in my 96 (only 2 gauges) and they were a little too close to my face so I didn't even want to try the 03 with the swept back windshield. I wouldn't be too afraid of the install if your a mechanical person. The 03 pillars are easy to remove and if they are a direct replacement (I haven't really looked at them) the pillar part of the job should be very straight forward. Something to think about.



-Scott

 

[Dean Upson]

Here are the installation instructions http://i.b5z.net/i/u/265866/i/2003_Dodge.pdf



Dean

 

[Car_nut57]

Di-Pricol Pyro lighting

The biggest problem we have seen with the lighting of the pyro with LED is the instructions that come with the gauge and the tags on the LED wires say 12VDC+. What they should say is connect to the positive dimmer lead lead not a keyed on 12VDC. This helps to tame the lighting down and make its brightness much closer tot he factory dash and other gauges.

 

[BKunic]

Scott,



You're probably right in that it probably isn't that bad a job. I am fairly mechanically inclined so I could probably hack it. I read the instructions that Dean was good enough to post and it really doesn't look that bad. The only part that has me a little concerned is the drilling and tapping - doing it without having any debris get in where it isn't supposed to. Of course, if I take it to a shop there is certainly no guarantee that they won't let some crud get where it isn't supposed to be.



I've decided on just the pyro and boost. I think the transmission temp is overkill, and I want to keep it simple. Going to go with the dual A-pillar installation and the Di-Pricol gages.



I won't get around to it until after the holidays, so if I don't get any good leads on shops I may just decide to save the $ and do it myself.



Does anyone know of any other possible methods to keep the drilling and taping debris out of the turbo? How difficult is it to remove the turbo?



Thanks again to everyone for their help on this.



Bryan

 

[SRadke]

There are a couple ways to keep the chips out of the manifold. Many people coat the drill bit with grease so the chips will stick to it. I just started the engine and turned on the exhaust brake. 60 psi in and exhaust manifold really sends them chips a flying when you break through. Also, you'll definitely want to fish around in there with a magnet on a stick when you're done. Removing the turbo is the safest option but not nescesary in my opinon.



-Scott

 

[BKunic]

So coat the drill bit with grease, have the engine running with the jake brake on, fish around with a magnet, and use a little common sense should allow me to get it drilled and tapped without damaging the engine, or so it sounds.



Stupid question, but what would happen if a small piece of debris were to get ingested? Catastrophic or really not all that serious?



Thanks for the input. I found it interesting while reading the instructions that Dean posted that the stock A-pillar piece is re-used, with the after market piece going on over that. Liked the wiring instructions as well.



Guess after the holidays I'll attack it. Have to order the gages and gage mount.



Thanks again,



Bryan

 

[SRadke]

You'll have to ask somone else about debris in the turbo. It shouldn't harm the bearings or seals but I can't remember how much clearance there is in there. Not much as I remember. I don't think I would use the term catastrophic but damage could occur.



Also when I put the pillar in my 96 I foud it to fit better without the stock pillar behind it, although the instructions said otherwise. It fit fine on it's own and I had a couple people ask me how I got the plastic to stretch out so I could put those gauges in it. I guess it looked that good.



-Scott

 

[Dean Upson]

Originally posted by SRadke

Also when I put the pillar in my 96 I foud it to fit better without the stock pillar behind it, although the instructions said otherwise. It fit fine on it's own and I had a couple people ask me how I got the plastic to stretch out so I could put those gauges in it. I guess it looked that good.



-Scott

You can see the back of the gauges through the windshield on the G3's if you do not use the stock pillar and it looks really bad. I have seen one done that way. Why would you want to keep the stock pillar? It costs less than the pod.



Dean

 

[curatchko]

I drilled and tapped with grease on the bits, and then when I was done stuck a shop vac to the hole... . Beyond that, it's going out the tail pipe, or sitting inside the muffler for a few years... . either way, shouldn't be a big deal.



Chris

 

[BKunic]

That's what I wanted to hear. I'll use the grease, shop vac, and won't worry about it.



Thanks for all the input, I think I'll just do this myself and probably save a few hundred $.



Bryan

 

[Prairie Dog]

I used the shop vac too but I then checked the hole with a magnet and found a fair amount of metal. Just keep sticking the magnet in there until it comes back clean.

Any debris going through your turbo can cause serious damage if it hits it wrong so be carefull!