Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Well, it was a tough couple of days, but it is finally done. The 03' power/heated mirrors are finally on the 01'. Here is a few notes from the install for future installers.
First, the best tools I used to pry up the tabs on the spring retaining nuts was two pair of needle nose pliers. Other tools just were not strong enough for the job.
Second, after you get them out and make the head to bases switch, be sure to compress the springs FULLY in a vice. You will need the room to lock the spring nut back into place. It also helps to leave a few inches of wire sticking out past the nut to make it easier to release the spring afterward.
Third, be careful not to pinch a wire in the door when reinstalling the new mirror to the door frame
It tends to blow a certain 10 amp fuse that DC thoughtfully hid in the fuse box that can not be seen. It also controls the radio and the interior lights. DC fitted that one fuse with a plastic cover that prevents you from seeing, testing, or replacing the fuse unless you pry it out of the fuse box. 
Fourth, When you hook up your wiring, be prepared for anything. Even though I have an 01', the wiring is completely different at the door connection than any one else's that posted. The key is to look for the two wires on each side (driver and Passenger) that are the same. They will be your heat wires. All the rest are your power wires and can be a variety of colors as well.
Fifth, when you pick a spot for your heat switch, make sure it is small enough to fit in the space, as there are mounting bolts to contend with. I used a small round two pole toggle switch.
And sixth, when reinstalling the door panel, use great care not to pinch a wire. Solder and heat shrink all your connections, and wrap the whole bunch with electrical tape. Pick up a few door clips to replace any that got really mangled, make sure they all line up first, before thumping the door panel.
These really are a great addition, and something DC should have made available. If you tow a lot, these are a dream to drive with and adjust. Just have patience, it will be worth it.
Sarge
First, the best tools I used to pry up the tabs on the spring retaining nuts was two pair of needle nose pliers. Other tools just were not strong enough for the job.
Second, after you get them out and make the head to bases switch, be sure to compress the springs FULLY in a vice. You will need the room to lock the spring nut back into place. It also helps to leave a few inches of wire sticking out past the nut to make it easier to release the spring afterward.
Third, be careful not to pinch a wire in the door when reinstalling the new mirror to the door frame
It tends to blow a certain 10 amp fuse that DC thoughtfully hid in the fuse box that can not be seen. It also controls the radio and the interior lights. DC fitted that one fuse with a plastic cover that prevents you from seeing, testing, or replacing the fuse unless you pry it out of the fuse box. Fourth, When you hook up your wiring, be prepared for anything. Even though I have an 01', the wiring is completely different at the door connection than any one else's that posted. The key is to look for the two wires on each side (driver and Passenger) that are the same. They will be your heat wires. All the rest are your power wires and can be a variety of colors as well.
Fifth, when you pick a spot for your heat switch, make sure it is small enough to fit in the space, as there are mounting bolts to contend with. I used a small round two pole toggle switch.
And sixth, when reinstalling the door panel, use great care not to pinch a wire. Solder and heat shrink all your connections, and wrap the whole bunch with electrical tape. Pick up a few door clips to replace any that got really mangled, make sure they all line up first, before thumping the door panel.
These really are a great addition, and something DC should have made available. If you tow a lot, these are a dream to drive with and adjust. Just have patience, it will be worth it.
Sarge
