Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Novice fix Loose Tow Mirror/Tabbed Killer dowel Pin...Help! Sludge in anti-freeze.

[Dave M]

Novice fixes Loose Tow Mirror/Tabbed Killer dowel Pin...Help! Sludge in anti-freeze.

Well, I know next to nothing about this diesel but I`ve been learning , thanks to you TDR members. I've been reading threads for over a year and found a thread by "Deezul1" on how to fix my loose passenger side stock chrome electric mirror. Sorry, but this is a long post. I needed to tell my experience ,as a novice, doing the mirror and KDP tab fix.



1st: The MIRROR;



The glass was not loose but it was the chrome post that attaches the mirror into the base mounted on the door. The 4 screws worked loose, so I drilled and tapped 1/4-20. . installed 3/4 inch allen head bolts with blue locktite and it worked... they are tight now.



2nd: KDP Tab FiX;



Next was the KDP. I used a tab kit from TST that came with the cummins front seal kit. Since I have a huge Ranch Hand Texas bumper (goes great with the truck), I decided to leave it on and removed just the radiator and fan assembly.



I had to use a mirror to see some of the bolts in the gear case but I managed. The case was not cracked (thank you God) and the pin was out almost 1/8 inch. Found 3 of 5 gear case bolts pretty loose, so I cleaned holes with brake cleaner and re-loctited them. Tighened all bolts I could get to. Cleaned the gasket surface and front cover and the crank a gizillion times to be sure it was clean... used brake cleaner followed by alcohol. Used cummins gear case cover gasket and the grey RTV sealer on both sides of gasket... no leaks yet.



3rd: Front Seal;



The hardest part was the front seal. I read many posts on the front seal so I tried heating the cover at 225 F in oven (while my wife was gone) and put the seal in the freezer for 1/2 hour. I put the cover on 2x4's on floor while pounding the seal in from the rear of the cover. This didn't make sense cause I thought the seal would be damaged but it wasn't. It keep going in uneven but at least it came back out pretty easy. After 2 more heat/cold cycles it slipped in like a greased pig and. . vawala . . it worked.



Now I read that the clear plastic insert piece (used to help install the front seal to prevent it front rolling over when put cover on crank) in the seal kit should have the large diameter side inside the cover (facing the engine) which just didn't seam right since it fit better the other way and I was afraid it would not pull out from the front. . But it worked fine. Put the black dust seal in front of the cover between cover and the damper.



I replaced upper/lower radiator hoses, water pump, anti-freeze, serpentine belt (all NAPA parts) and saved the old for spares. My biggest leak I believe was the front seal. I found another leak on the bottom bolt of the vacumn pump/to gear case gasket. Tried tightening the bolt to see if it stops leak... otherwise need to replace that gasket.



Finally: Now to my PROBLEM;



I found 1/2 to 1 inch light tan (almost white ) goey sludge in the bottom of the radiator overflow tank :{ . Also the lower engine hose water port was tan inside... But the anti-freeze was green. The oil dipstick shows black oil. With the engine running and hot I don't see any bubbles in the anti-freeze. Whats going on? Do I have a blown head gasket? If so. . what does it take to replace it? How can I test to find whats wrong (with limited tools)? If the head gasket is bad what else should I replace while doing that?



Ok Diesel guro's out there... Can you offer some advice on where to go with this. I've learned alot from this forum. . it's great. . but the down side is I have the bombing fever bad Oo. . I'm starting to cross over to the dark side . From what I understand, my 97 12v with 215 pump and 5 spd manual trans is ripe for horsepower. I'm looking at 4 inch exhaust then gages followed by #10 plate, 3K GSK but ... first to find out what this sludge thing is.



Sorry for the long post but I figured other novices like me may learn from my experience and jump in there and wrench... You sure learn alot about your truck with great help from you experienced members.



Thanks all for any input but realize I'm new at this, so thanks for helping me learn.



Dave

 

[RM]

you didnt mention how many miles on truck but im going to venture a few. and you havent been changing antifreeze regulary and youre getting silicia drop out of antifreeze theres been a lot of change in antifreeze in the last few years and you really shouldnt be using auto antifreeze alot of talk on here about whats best but my choice is hoat which is zerez. flush radiator and replace antifreeze if you really want to get it good take out radiator and flush with hose good becareful these radiators cant take alot. if you had a headgasket leak it would most likely be right behind thermostat housing in the first turn in in head if you look youll see what i mean. clean off real good and use spray underarm deodarant with lot of powder in it and coat good run around and it will show up real good if you got leak there. but i think youre all right should change antifreeze every 2 years if youre using old timing antifreeze ron

 

[Dave M]

Ron,



My truck has 141k miles. I got it on Ebay from Texas with 120K miles. I used a Napa anti-freeze that they said was good for diesels and it is spec for "Cummins 90T8-4" so I figured it was good enough. Anyone else have a reason to change to different ant-freeze chime in. I flushed the radiator with a water hose when I had it out of the truck but I did not flush the engine... I was not sure how to do it. I did not notice anything more come out of the radiator and since the fluid was all green it could be just silica depositing.





I'll try the powder on the head to see if it is leaking. I also have either diesel or oil around all around the injectors. I'm not sure if the valve covers (they are black) are leaking or the injectors. I will replace the valve covers and try to clean the head up so I can spot a leak. Is it possible that the injectors are leaking? Do they have an O-Ring that might be leaking? I'll look at that too. I haven't c leaned that area yet but have been concentrating on the oil leak on the lower engine.



The anti-freeze hasn't been changed in over a year by me and who knows how long it was in there before I got it The truck seems to run Ok except it needs more power :-laf . I plan on going with 4 inch SS Magnaflow exhaust with 30 inch Magnaflow muffler and kill the cat .

Thanks for the info. That sounds like an easy way to test for a leak.



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Well? Come on guys. Are you out there ! Do You agree or not that I don't need to worry about a blown head gasket? If this was your truck what would you do?



I want to get on with bombing this truck Oo. I'm not sure if its necessary to pull the head just to be sure the gasket is not blown . I haven't checked the manual yet to see how difficult it would be and to check compression I probably need to buy a gage.



Any insights you guys might have that would be helpful is mucho appreciated.



Thanks for any input.



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Here is pic of dowel pin before the tab fix. It was out about 1/8 inch. #ad

 

[PUMPERDUDE]

Hey Dave,take it easy. Just keep a close eye on the overflow tank to see whats going on. If it maintains a good level for a few days and stays clean,I say you're good to go. Let the bombs rip... . If you see more slude building up and big fluctuations in the level of the overflow tank then something is up. If the gasket is blown ,its not the end of the world. It gives you a chance to get to know your Cummins a little better.

 

[crabman]

Dave M,

I would spray down the entire engine with Simple Green and wash (power wash if you want) it off. Drive it for 2 to 3 thousand miles, all the while keeping tabs on coolant level and checking for oil leaks.

Since this truck is used and you do not know what has/has not been done, I would do the following which would give you a good baseline.

Change:

Engine Oil & Filter

Air Filter(just buy a BHAF)

Trans Oil

Rearend Oil

Brake fluid

P/S fluid

Repack Wheel Bearings & Check All brake pads(front & rear)

Rubber Fuel lines(use only Marine Grade)

Starter contacts



Oh, buy a factory manual :-laf it will help you a great deal.

If you do all this and keep good records on what, when, etc. , it will help you a great deal in learning about your truck.

crabman

 

[Dave M]

Pumperdude, Thanks for your reply. I've been getting a little anxious. . Ok more than a little... about the possible head gasket thing or worse. I've talked to a mechanic friend who said the same thing as you... which makes me feel a little relieved. I love working on this truck but I got uptight because I don't have the money to throw at it. Besides, I'd rather throw money into bombing :-laf .



I have been keeping an eye on it and I really don't think its too serious with what I've found so far. Good Advice.



Crabman, Again, Very good advice... thats what I like about TDR members... you think of things that I hadn't considered. I have changed the oil, fuel filters and replaced the rear end fliud and complete rear brake job (shoes, wheel cylinders, new brake springs and adjusted emerg brake) when I had the axle cover bolts breaking off. . so new axle seals. The other stuff needs done and its time for fresh fluids in oil, fuel filter, trans etc like you suggested. I do have a AFE drop in filter... is that what you mean by a BHAF? I haven't done the front brakes either, so that will be next too.



Thanks guys for the great suggestions. I'll try to relax and keep an eye on things while I go thru the rest of fluids. I use delco 400 15W40 for oil. Any suggestions on the other fluids to use chime in.



My wife put about 100 miles on truck today, so I checked radiator and overflow. . both green. Dumped overflow tank out and no slime. . it's all green. Dipstick ok. I'm feeling better . I'll degrease around head and rest of engine when I get next chance. I've got a little oil leak... I think front seal is ok so far. . probably need to replace vacumn pump to gear case seal. Is there anything I should know about doing that?



Thanks,



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Well..... still checking antifreeze and still no sludge and dipstick is fine .



No more blow by either . Still have a small oil leak . I think it's the vacumn pump to gear case gasket. Need to degrease engine again and check out the leak around the valve covers. I'm a happy camper Oo.



Going to tab a friends 1st gen 93 and then think out my bombing stragety and budget :{ .



Santa. . I want a 4 inch magnaflow SS exhuast for christmas . . and the gages will fit real nice in my stocking and... ... then... . Let the Bombing begin Oo.



Dave