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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Novice needs advice

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Thanks for the good advice, a manual would be a great start. I updated my personal info too. I would like to get a recommendation for a good shop in my area (Lake Stevens, Washington)

THX!

Scott-
 
Yes I forgot abought the factory service manual I bought one from my local Dodge dealer before I new Genos had them payed way to much I think around $115 way cheaper at genos and you can also buy the manual on CD if you like that better.
 
Hey, while you're on the topic, I haven't bought a shop manual yet and want to know opinions on hardcopy vs cd versions. I'd imagine the cd would be pretty hard to reference while standing in the engine compartment covered in grease. On the other hand I think it would be better for longevity, no torn pages or pictures/instructions covered with greasy fingerprints. What do other people think?
 
Scott definitely do all the simple things first. The most discouraging thing would be to put a new VP44 on it and still have the same problem.
 
Tomorrow morning I am going to do the following:

1. Check batt connections and all grounds.

2. Wrap Alt. wire w/foil.

3. Change fuel filter.

4. Clear codes and see if they reappear.

My reasoning for changing the fuel filter is this:

I just bought the truck with 40k miles on it from a guy that hardly ever drove it for a long time (only 5K put on it in the last 3 or so years)

He put a new fuel filter in at 28k, but that was back in early 2003!

I figure that if the truck sat for a long time there might be fuel contamination issues from condensation and/or jelling. Once I started driving it, I figure that all the crud in the tank may have fouled up the fuel filter, and I was thinking that a plugged up fuel filter might be responsable for the codes that point to my VP... does that sound like a reasonable theory? I think, that even if it is not likely, it can't hurt to change the filter after 5 years of it being in there...

My next step will be:

If the 1690 code comes back, get a test pressure gauge and check my fuel pressure. (Yes, I am ordering new fuel pressure, boost, and EGT gauges and all the associated stuff tomorrow morning as well... )

If the gear hunting continues, I will order one of your APPS modules (if I end up having to buy a new VP, will I still need a new APPS?).

Anyway, that's all I can think of. Did I forget anything else simple that I could start with?

Thanks Brother!
 
Hey, while you're on the topic, I haven't bought a shop manual yet and want to know opinions on hardcopy vs cd versions. I'd imagine the cd would be pretty hard to reference while standing in the engine compartment covered in grease. On the other hand I think it would be better for longevity, no torn pages or pictures/instructions covered with greasy fingerprints. What do other people think?



My Dodge manual is a hard copy havn't used the Dodge one on cd I have used other manuals on cd depending on how they are set up some allow you to search for what you are looking for then all you need to do is print that section and take it to the shop ya my 20# book is coverd in greasey finger prints after rebuilding my engine and transmission another good thing a bought cd. you might try to call Genos and see how it is set up PDF format or what?
 
Update...

Well, here's what happened today:



First thing I did was change the fuel filter. After I was done I hooked up a pressure gauge to the port in the top of my filter and got readings of 12-14 psi at idle and 5 psi at 2000 rpm. I cleaned everything up and went for an hour long drive and guess what, no more hunting. my truck seemed to have even more power than when I bought it. I ran it on the freeway and surface streets, slow and WOT, up and down hills... ran perfectly!:-laf



I stopped at Autozone and rented a code reader and cleared the old 1690 code, then drove home, again varying speeds and such... when I got home I checked the codes... none! Excellent...



So I go inside to get ready for work and 45 minutes later I am back in the truck on the freeway and guess what? The hunting problem re-appears... #@$%! When it was running good it stayed at about 1600 rpm at 60mph. It started acting weird and shifted in and out of overdrive a few times when I was doing 60mph on level ground with the cruise control on. then it settled in and ran in 3rd gear (I suppose... ) with the tach reading 2000 rpm steady. I couldn't get it to go back into overdrive... :{



So... What do I have going on here? I forgot to mention, that it is still not throwing a code. I checked all grounds and they seemed to be good. I did not get around to doing the aluminum foil thing as it seemed like my troubles were over after I changed the fuel filter (you can see in my earlier post why I did this first).



Why did everything get better after I changed my fuel filter? Once this problem started, it never got better, it just got worse, until I put in the new filter...



I don't even understand why a clogged fuel filter could have had any effect on my shifting/hunting problem!



Thanks to everyone for sticking with me on this, any suggestions would be welcome!



Scott-:confused:
 
I,m not an automatic man my self but I've had several friends with them in second gen trucks and I can rebember them doing the same thing in and out of overdrive someone told me they had to take them back to a dealer and have the ecm reflashed Dodge upgraded the software and I heard that fixed it I think the fuel filter thing was just a freak thing not saying it didn't need one and after being that old it probably did run beter I'm kinda conserned with the fuel pressure thing 5psi at 2000rpm and I'm guessing thats not under a load I've heard not to run one much under 9at wot mybe 5 at wot underload don't know the only other thing on the transmission if its not a software issue would be a bad converter? but like I said I don't do autos anybody else heard of this ecm flashing thing?:confused:
 
Scott,



I am also a new owner of a 2nd gen truck. I priced the Edge W/attitude against a set of gauges and found that it was a real bargain when considering all the meters (6) with alarms as well as the power adding functions. I had 5 psi at wot after install as well and I installed a fass pump prior to tapping the pump wire (power adding) and havent seen under 10 wot and it runs 16-18 most times. The VPs seem to be a real issue as you will find by reading... . The pump costs about what I have spent getting the Fass, Edge, and a 4" exhaust so it really seems like a no brainer to protect the fragile pump. I did all the installs myself and with a little help from the pros here they went fairly smoothly. my . 02 for what its worth



Wayne
 
Wayne,



Thanks for the input. I am going to go with a FASS or AirDog and attempt the install myself too. As far as the Edge system, I did not consider that when I ordered my gauges. I am not really looking to add a lot of HP or Touque. I don't tow at all now and I may tow a pretty light trailer in 7 or 8 years occasionally.

My goals for the truck are to make it last for many years and to possibly improve the fuel economy too.

at any rate, I already ordered my gauges from Genos... I hope I can get everything installed myself (and a little help from my friends here at TDR!)

Scott-
 
Thanks to everyone for sticking with me on this, any suggestions would be welcome!



Scott-:confused:
Scott,



I went back through this thread and didn't see you mentioning you'd verified the transmission fluid is at the proper level. Have you checked that?



Regards,



John L.
 
John,



I should have mentioned that, but yes I did check it, early on...



Thanks,

Scott-
Good.



Does the "OD off" light illuminate on the instrument cluster when the transmission has this uncommanded downshift from 4th to 3rd?



Another thought...



There's a relay labeled "TRANS" in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) on the driver's side fender under the hood which plays a role in torque convertor lockup and shifting the overdrive (4th) gear. I'm wondering if it could be faulty? You could try replacing that relay or at least temporarily swapping it out with another non-essencial relay (like the wiper) in the PDC to see if that eliminates the problem.



Another possible culprit could be the output shaft speed sensor, which is located on the tail end of the transmission housing. I believe it plays a roll in helping the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) decide what gear the transmission should be in. They do go bad causing strange shifting behaviour (usually delayed shifting) and are simple to replace.



Regards,



John L.
 
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Those are certainly worth trying...

Today I wrapped the alternator wire in aluminum and we will see if that gives me any results.

Last night when I left work I turned the O/D off and drove for about 10 minutes with it off. when I turned it back on, everything was working normally again. so far today it is behaving. I ordered the DTT noise filter and I am hoping that this will solve the problem once and for all.

to answer your question, the OD Off light does not illuminate when it has an uncommanded downshift...

More later...

Thanks,

Scott-
 
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Update...

Well it has been behaving good for 2 days in a row... :D



After the last episode of lock/unlocking TC and the 1690 code I tried the last couple of the sugestions that everyone made. I removed and cleaned the battery terms and wrapped the alternator wire in foil.



So far everything seems normal... :rolleyes:



I ordered gauges from Genos (ISSPRO - EGT, Boost, & F/P) they should be arriving soon. I also ordered a new AirDog FP100 from Glacier. In addition, I ordered a Noise filter from DTT. I am going to install everything within the next two weeks (unless all the parts get here before Friday).



I don't understand how the TC unlocking and 1690 codes are related, but everything got better when I cleaned the Battery Terms and put on the foil.



Thanks again to everyone who stuck with me. I hope the fixes are permenent, but if not, I know where to go to get good advice!:-laf:-laf

Scott-
 
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