Here I am

Now it won't start

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Accessory belt derailing

electrical power loss

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Now my 89 won't start. Some background info, last summer it started to die at intersections (once or twice a week) when I came to a stop and continued through last week but would start right back up. Last week it started to die after letting off accelerator while driving (Exiting interstate, ect. ) but started back up. It now sits at a friends house because it died when I turned in the subdivision and has not started since. I've check fuel shutoff silinoid and it has power, changed fuel filter, cracked injector lines which leak small amounts of fuel. What else should I look at?
 
On your fuil shut of valve. If you have power it still could be bad.

Go to your fuil shut of vale and unscrew it from the pump and the plunger in the end can be taken out. Replace the valve in the pump and try it agen. If it starts you can allways shut it down with the manual lever on the pump. was it runing good and pulling strong when it was runing on the road.
 
I had a similar thing happen, theres a wire, a pretty big one that goes from your battery to a black box behind your battery if I remember right. Its got a funny looking conector in it. Make sure it has good clean conections. Or it may be possible that "black box" fried, I hope not. If it did I think there are ways around it that require rewireing but I'm not sure how. Hope this somehow helps. I just went out and looked at mine the wire is about the size of a TV cable wire, and it goes from the battery to a big wire loom right beside the battery. It has a connector about 3-4 inches from the battery that came disconnected on mine and it died right in the middle of an intersection. Maybe someone else can help me out here.
 
FD5, one thing to look at is the nut on the injector pump drive gear. It can come off if someone forgot to put locktight on the threads. Just look down the oil fill tube and you should see it. If it comes off the gear will come loose from the taper lock on the pump shaft.

One other thing, When you break loose the injector lines it should spray fuel out with a lot of pressure. If it comes out slowly you might be in the market for a pump. I'm sorry to say this sounds like your problem. But don't take my word for it, have it checked.



good luck--------dave
 
Hate to say it, but that is how mine went (. )(. ) up. If you turn the key to run position and remove the wire from the fuel shutoff solonoid, you should here it click. If you do, remove it and likely you will find metal shavings.
 
Dead at home

Finally had a chance to look at it this past weekend. Bleed the fuel system again from lift pump to injectors. Turned key on, heater cycled out (60 degrees),it started and I drove it home. Would not start this morning (35 degrees). Heater does not seem to cycle and the fuel shut off silinoid gets warm to the touch with key on (Is this normal?). My next step is to remove fuel shut off plunger. Ballpark price of a fuel shut off silinoid?
 
I paid $140 just a couple of months ago. Have seen someone say they got one for $70 but I didn't have time to fool around looking. The technician where I got mine said they have had a real demand for these lately so look out guys, your turn may be coming!:(
 
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