Here I am

Now thats a hitch!

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I measured a lot truck and the top of the receiver is about 23". Actually the height is about the same as a friends Tundra 4x4 1/2ton.



So for my boat which I'm told needs ~18" the height would be a 6" drop?



Yet Galen, for example, runs a much taller truck and needs only 6"?
 
As an update, I measured my explorer, it's 22" off the ground (23-24" for the cummins). And I've got a 4" drop on it putting the ball-mount unloaded at 18".



I think the 6" one is going to work.
 
the top horizontal of my hitch shank is 27". my drop puts me at 19" unloaded (this is with 40 lbs in the air bags).
 
Thanks! So 23" or 24" for the non-lifted truck seems sane.



Trailer maker said 22-1/2" ball height, even asked about the truck so he could get a feel for sag. So the ball mount at about 20". So 3" or so of drop should be plenty for the boat. And that puts me in the mid-range of the hitch.



Of course this also means that the explorer setup we've been using to tow starts off low, per spec, and squats from there. Hmm...
 
And as a reference the top of the receiver on my truck is app 21".



Edit: changed to 21" (the 20" # was to another point).
 
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Interesting... I had heard people talk just the opposite... that the 3rd gen 4x4 is taller. But have no first hand knowledge on that.
 
I guess we'll see when mine arrived. I measured the 3G using my kneecap, then checked it with a tape and against my friends Tundra. The 2G was a 2500 4x4 and was well above anywhere on my knee.
 
I'm looking at one of these also. Point of reference, measured distance to the pavement from the top of the tube is 22" (unladen) on my 04. 5 3500 4x4. Wondering the same, is 6" enough, and is the 10" going to be a little close to the earth? My 2 horse Hartman lowers the suspension 2" when loaded, and the base of the ball needs to be at just under 16" from the pavement (after loading) to be level.



Pat
 
I've got my truck now. :)



The hitch is the right height for my boat (20. 5" to the TOP of the ball speced by the maker) when the drop is 2nd from the bottom hole. I doubt 300lb or so will sag the rear much, but if so I've got room to adjust a wee bit both ways if needed.



So if yours is 22, less 2 for the load. You need a 4" drop, and the rapid should work great. Something that needed the 10" I think would be too much, espically with their two ended ball.



BTW, the "base of ball" measure isn't as accurate. Balls vary in height.



OH, and a super-fab feature of the hitch, if you put it in it's storage posistion (ball and receiver insert face the same way), it fits just right on the drivers side underseat compartment!
 
Thanks, that is what I suspected. I've got prints with dimensions off the web, so I'll do a little confirming tonight.



Pat
 
Ok. . another toy I gotta' have!



Who sells 'em. (as always, a good price ;>). Saw the references to EBAY, what about a dealer site.



Also seems like a good item to maybe start a GP.



Man... hangin' around here gets expensive... :>
 
Ultrahitch does not sell direct. eBay has some of the best prices I could find. But I got mine from Deep South Trailer Parts.



-- email address removed --



They had a eBay class price, but also were able to supply advice and other parts for the hitch, like the 1 7/8" ball. Some of the eBay stores just knew what was written on the box. Derek was great to work with.
 
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I have also seen them for sale in Cal Ranch stores and other places around northern Utah.



Andersen has almost exclusively gone to the Aluminum version - stronger, stays looking nice LONG after it's been used alot, lighter weight, etc. No more steel versions being made. The aluminum is better in almost every aspect. And Andersen has no problem selling them. The aluminum hitch sells itself - as you know.



-----



BTW: I got mine (Powdercoated Black Steel version) from a close friend who was doing business with Andersen about the time they they converted from the powdercoated steel version to the aluminum version. We live in northern Utah and he was working in the steel and fabrication business - which took in most of Idaho as part of his business area.



While at their shop one day, he noticed a box full of the black steel hitch odds and ends and a few remaining whole hitch units that had been pushed aside to make way for the aluminum ones. He offered to take them off their hands for a rediculous price... and they agreed. I best not say how much I got mine for or you WOULD cry.



Irregardless of the price however, I still like the aluminum ones better, much better. If and when my steel one gives up, I'll be the first in line to buy a silver one.



Also, please note that I would need to have 3 locking pins in order to keep my hitch locked up. With the aluminum ones, you only need two. That's because Andersen began using an internal-type locking pin for the reversable ball. Great idea!!
 
FWIW, the ball is still steel, so the hitch is much heavier than I would have expected. I'd also prefer a single ball option, the flip-over just makes it heavier and closer to the ground.



The internal pin on mine was a bit hard to get out at first, we'll see how difficult it is once it's had some use. A small hole on the outside of the hitch that I could stick a nail into to push the pin out would be fab.
 
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