NP 205 problem

[WJune]

Found the cause of the clunk-snap sound when I shift or let off, then accelerate again. The adapter sleve which conects input gear of 205 to the getrag was dry, worn an stripped out. Definitely need a new or good sleve, also should replace input gear as 50% of spline gone ! The shaft is bigger than the 205's from 3/4 tons I have, otherwise I would concider using one of them. Need to get her on the road as my other ctd is down with a bad 727.

Any idea's where a 'poor boy' can find these parts ? Local dealers an part house's probably a waste of time. Open to idea's, thanks, Bill

 

[MMiller]

Only two places I could think of. A drive train shop(thats where I would go) or a salvage yard. I would think that every one you find at a salavage yard will be in the same shape. I know of two drive train shops here in Iowa that would be able to get the part. Are you just wanting to swap the t-case, or going to fix it?



I don't have any extra ones laying around either.



Michael

 

["Mad Max"]

Parts is parts

Bill - I have some 205 parts in a big ole bin from a divorced unit. Would the parts you need be in a divorced 205? If I can get a good picture of the part(s) I can try to look in the bin to see if I have 'em. I'm not really sure what parts I have left over but the 205 the parts came from wasn't broken, just old. If I have 'em you can have 'em. I'll ship 'em UPS and you can get me a beer at the next event... .

If you can get a good breakdown of schymatic (sp) for the parts beam that to me and I'll take a look. First off I need to find the bin - it's burried in the shop which is burried in boxes which is all covered in Romez leftovers... ... but hey I have lights and power now - woo hoo!

- Sam

 

[WJune]

205

Thanks Mike an Sam for the info. Not sure which route I will go yet, I mess with antigue an obsolete all the time, so searching is a way of life. The 90 is newest thing I own an thats only because of the CTD. If you can let me know sources in Iowa, it's a start. Regarding Sam's generous offer, I checked one of my divorced 205,s an sleve slid over input shaft very loosely.

By my 'low teck' tape measure, the sleve is 4" long, with 1 1/2" I. D.

I have a feeling this input shaft is either larger due to being 1 ton, or the CTD ? My Haynes manual shows this 205 taken apart, while other manuals show it as a divorced unit, which I have never seen behind a Getrag.

I know of a similiar truck with bad 727, any chance that 205 will interchange ? Keep the info. coming guy's. Bill

 

[Greenleaf]

This is an interesting topic, and I'll tell you why.



I answered an add in local paper. For Sale: 89 W250 Reg Cab Manual transmission, white. $6,000



So like I call and the truck is busted with a stripped out copupling. He has taken it to a repair garage and so I'm told to get back later.



Meanwhile I'm dreaming of the mods I'll make and the polished wheels I'll add, etc. etc. right? Well he decides to keep it, cause he got it fixed and that is the only time it had to be taken to a repair garage in all it's years. I was not a happy camper.



Good thing as I luv my "D" model. It's so smooooooooth. Besides the problems guys are having w/the 4X4 related equipment isn't worth it for me.



-S

 

[MMiller]

The first place I would call is :



Certified Power Train in Des Moines IA, talk to Rollo if he hasn't retired yet.

#515-244-5599

Rollo was my broken dodge drivetrain parts man when I lived around the DM area. He knew me almost by the sound of my voice on the phone.



Second Place is:



Sadler Power Train in Davenport Ia, talk to Matt if you can. The other guys you will have to "hold their hand" to get their help.

#563-386-4213

These guys supplied all my Dana, driveshaft, ujoint needs when I lived in the Davenport area.



Both of these companies are great to deal with. Very good parts too. They will even help you upgrade to heavier stuff whenever possible/necessary. I believe the 205 has larger shaft because its behind a diesel/5 spd combo. None were divorced setup from Dodge, all were married. Divorced setups ended in the mid 70's. The 205 is nearly bulletproof behind even modified gassers, but turn out to be mearly suffecient behind a diesel. Don't get me wrong, they will last for ever behind you CTD even modified, but be scared if you seriously start truck pulling with it.



I have no idea is the one behind your 727 is the same, could be, or maybe dodge figured it would be plenty stout behind the torque convertor protected auto?! Maybe you should just pull it to find out for us. :-laf



Maybe if you call these guys they might be able to find a dealer closer to you, or they would be glad to UPS the parts to you too. They have always treated me well.



Michael

 

[PSU-CE]

What I've seen is the 205 input shaft behind the autos is smaller. Not sure if it is all models though.

 

[bgilbert]

Don't know if this helps, but the auto 205 is different than 5 speed 205. How hmm don't know first hand, but being a member and reading for a couple years, guys doing swaps, conversions, trying to piece things together, have found they are different and one would need to find the 5sp 205 or auto 205. Its probly is from being said before the inputs are different. But since I've never had one apart, I have no idea what I'm talking about.

 

[power grizz]

your dodge dealer can get the coupler for about $80(that's what mine said). the input in the x-case five speed is cummins stick transmission only. autos are smaller, the same as the gasser manuals and autos. i have several auto 205's i may part with and i was considering making a coupler that would allow an auto 205 to be bolted to a manual transmission. let me know if i could help as i am located in medford.

 

[WJune]

205

Thanks guys, for the info. Grizz, it's good to Know there is help in Medford, I am near Lacrosse. I had thought of the same "adaptor sleve", but figured it should be machined out of 'good stuff ', an that is one skill I don't get into. Would be interested in your idea on the adaptor ? In discussing the dry rusty sleve with a friend, who could not beleive it ran in a 'dry housing', it occured to me that when new an tite it probably ran strait an cool. As the spline wore from towing'torque', an the bearing on either side wore a little, it allowed the sleve to run less than 'true' , throwing out the little grease it may of had, an getting hot. The cure, as I see it, is to run it in lube all the time, before it's shot. Without everyone dropping 205's to lube sleve, there should be a way to get lube in there ? Possibly a magnetic drill bit, then a plug ? What do you guy's think ? If I can fiure how to post pic's, I will show you the lil bugger. Bill