Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV 4500 Fully Splined Mainshaft Install

[turbo torque]

Got my fully splined mainshaft kit the other day from Dan at quad 4x4, and South Bend Con OFE from Peter at South Bend Clutch. Gonna install this week



Does anybody have any tips or cautions for the mainshaft install?



Thanks in advance, Bill

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

keep everything clean

have enough space to line everything out in order

have different sizes and types of snap ring pliers

get a new snap ring kit from your vendor or Dodge, don't reuse the old ones

make a 4' bar from 2x2x. 25 angle iron that bolts to two positions where the tailhousing goes so you can really tighten the 5th gear nut (you do have the Miller tool, right)

 

[turbo torque]

No, I don't have the "Miller tool". Was wondering?? how to grab that nut. Maybe make a tool. Does any one have a pic of this tool? or where I can buy one?



What is the torque? Thanks again, Bill

 

[SRadke]

If you don't have a copy of the factory service manual PM me your email and I'll send that section to you. It's really nice to have some pictures to go along with that project, just in case



As for the wrench, I made one with a piece of pipe that fit tight around the nut, drilled in from the 4 sides and installed a dowel into each slot then welded a nut on the back So I could get a wrench on it. Works pretty well. I think I remember the TQ spec at something near 250 ft. lbs.



-Scott

 

[DTroy]

Joe is on the money about making a "tool" to hold the transmission while you torque the nut.

It just makes the job a lot smoother. You'll be glad you did.

 

[Fogie]

I got the tool with my kid from Quad 4x4. I'll be doing mine in April. The kit came with tools and videos. Videos are pretty detailed. Having the shop manual right there is the best way so you get everything in the correct order. Got mine. Good luck.

 

[Supermod56]

You can buy the tool from Dan@Quad fairly cheap.



Tom

 

[JAlford]

Bill,

PM me with your address and I will send you the tool and a manual to use. I did mine last winter. You will need a dial indicator to measure the end play on the shafts for the bearings, and you may need some shim stock to adjust. I used brass, as you can since you are using the sytorq fluid for the transmission. The torque spec for the nut is 280-300 ft lbs torque, so you will have to search around for a torque wrench to borrow. If you tow much weight, you might want to go ahead and add the fast coolers or Geno's trans filter to the PTO cover. I went with the filter, so I can monitor the amount of metal in the fluid.

Jeff

Note: don't take the syncros apart unless you are replacing them. Those springs are a bear to get back in. Depending on mileage, you might want to replace the bearings while your in there.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I used lots of red Loctite on the splines and the threads of the nut, and torqued it gutentite with a 3' cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive breaker bar. I'd say at least 400 ft lb. Spec is something like 325-350. That is why I opened the square hole in my Miller tool to 3/4. I can't imagine a 1/2" breaker bar holding up to that kind of torque.

 

[DTroy]

A day after I installed the nut, I needed to remove it. (CRS syndrome)



I broke a 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar trying to get it off. The permanent high-strength locktite didn't help any.



The pin in the breaker bar snapped in half.

 

[jerrethomas]

most of the time if i see someone used loctite on something, i'll heat the bolt a little to breakdown the loctite and the bolt comes right loose. The blue will usually come right out with a little effort, however the red can be a bear, or the green stuff from cat, that's really really good stuff.