Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV 5600 repair

[Wyomingcowboy]

Everything is is fine... . all the iron parts I mean. All of the brass friction rings show signs of wear with the one being total trash, but everything else looks great.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

New synchros, gear, and other parts are in hand and I'm ready to get to work! All I have to do now is wait on oil..... I am going to go with 8 qts of amsoil and see what I see... . They are alot cheaper than OEM and I've heard (mostly) good things.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Any thoughts on how to press the 5th and 6th back on the countershaft? I am thinking of heating the gear in a heat box and cooling the shaft with dry ice. I can only find a 25 ton press and that was barely enough to get them apart. I'm all ears to any ideas... ...

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Great pics, thanks for posting, especially the syncros. I've heard that the syncros were made out of everything from cardboard to Kevlar to brass - yours at least, look to be brass - and pretty shot!



Gotta leave that speed-shifting to the sporty-car guys - they're made to deal with it! :-laf

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Gotta leave that speed-shifting to the sporty-car guys - they're made to deal with it! :-laf

No kidding! I had a broken pelvis and it hurt like hell to use the clutch. I would launch in 2nd and speed shift from there. :{ If I had to do it all over again I would not try speed shifting back down... ... I had a light camper on was all. I probably should have thought better of it in the first place

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

- Here you can see the springs, dogs, and ball bearing inserts that go under the shift fork. I have easily spent 4 hours trying to install 6 of them. #@$%! (I am getting alot better at it though!)

- Then you can see the 3 and 4th gears and synchro assembly lookin all pretty there.

- I then placed the countershaft next to the main shaft. (the 5th and 5th countershaft gears are missing)

- finally, you can see my nice duct tape job holding the 3 and 4 synchro together as I hold the 5th and 6th countershaft gears in place and you can see it all together minus the reverse assembly which goes in the the tail shaft.



I have the 6th C. S. gear pressed on now and am going to heat the 5th C. S. gear and try to press it on maybe today. It's been a long time but I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I have all gears and synchros in place and will be lowering into place tomorrow to check runout, etc. ! I heated the 5th CS gear with a butane torch for awhile (to maybe 250 degrees) and it pressed right in. No problems whatsoever. I'll see soon how well I did - if everything lines up correctly... ...

 

[MKreiberg]

I heated the 5th CS gear with a butane torch for awhile (to maybe 250 degrees) and it pressed right in.

Just FYI - the kitchen oven works quite well for this...

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Just FYI - the kitchen oven works quite well for this...

I will have to remember that..... I was at school though, and the family/consumer sciences teacher might not be impressed with that fact:-laf

 

[MKreiberg]

My ex-wife never was either...

 

[JesseJ]

You were brave enough to tear into it like I was! BTW, a 25-Ton wouldn't even budge it, was flexing a 50-Ton pretty bad getting those gears on and off.



CAUTION! CAUTION! I hope you took lots of pictures on the huge mess that is the shift linkage! I spent a couple hours refiguring it all back out and mine wasn't apart as long as yours has been. Almost put the case back on with one piece missing too. Take the time to go through it in your mind how it would shift each and every gear to make sure everything is in the right place, they packed a lot into a small spot. Good luck!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I did take lots of pictures. I also have access to all data. The hardest part I have had by far has been those crazy gears. Going back on with them was waaayy easier. When I reassembled I loaded up the 5th gear to 5 tons just to be sure it set, but I did not need near that much. The 6th gear slid half way down the shaft with only gravity! The second hardest part has been the springs, dogs, and balls followed by all the different sizes of bearings. I had a heck of a time finding different sizes of pipe to drive all of them back on.

Anyway. I had the 2 shafts standing up in the bell housing to do an initial check and the 1 & 2 syncrho assembly (between the input shaft and the main shaft) are not clearing; SO, I will have to see what's going on there I suppose. After that I need to put the housing back on and check run out, etc. and I should be good to go! That probably won't happen this weekend though, as my motor is ready to go back together as well



Any thoughts on which is best to put back in the truck first; the motor, or the trans? I am thinking the motor first as it is a heavy sucker and I don't like the idea of it swinging around on the end of a cherry picker as I try to stab it on the input shaft. What do you all think?

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Any thoughts on which is best to put back in the truck first; the motor, or the trans? I am thinking the motor first as it is a heavy sucker and I don't like the idea of it swinging around on the end of a cherry picker as I try to stab it on the input shaft. What do you all think?

I've only done the transmission end - but common sense makes me pretty much agree - just need to be sure the truck and engine combo is pretty well set in the actual spot and blockage needed for the later transmission install, since there's no rear engine support until the transmission is installed and secured...



Yeah - I know you already knew that... :-laf:-laf

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Well, she's back together! (except for the tail housing and reverse gear) I was checking for end play as per specs and got about. 004"-. 005" with no shims. I took no shims out when it came apart..... does this sound right? I did notice that with the gauge set at . 000" I get almost . 015", but when I let off the pry bar it only comes back about half way. What is going on?

I really hope one of ya'll can help me as I would LOVE to have this done before Blumenthal's opens on Monday!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

here it is Oo.

 

[JesseJ]

So, no shims when you took off the front cover in the bell-housing correct? I had shims on mine, but ended up needing different shims because I replaced all the bearings, synchros, etc. My only suggestion is to tap on the shaft w/ a deadblow to make sure it's seated all the way, then set your gauge, then use the prybar to check the endplay. Can't remember the specs. off hand but I know I set them closer to the low end of the specs. assuming that once all bearings and such got some miles on them, things would loosen up a bit. Haven't had any issues yet, with almost 6k since rebuild.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I stand corrected. I have had some late nights and get a little confused, I guess. I did have one shim that I totally forgot about as I pulled the input shaft housing to apply the sealer and was reminded of the single shim. Either way, it's all back together now. I have the reverse gears all in and the tail housing is ready to go back together tomorrow or Monday.



What did you use to torque the big main shaft nut back on? I used a chisel and then a vise grip-chain wrench to get it off. AllData says to torque to 250 ft lbs. That's pretty friggin tight considering I have no way to hold the shaft still. I thought about cutting a tool out with the plasma cam and cutting a hole for a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

 

[macdaddy]

Wyoming... ... ... ... .



How many miles were on your 56 honey when you did all this work?.



Mac

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I had about 110k. Speed shifting wrecked the 3-4 synchro.

 

[macdaddy]

I had about 110k. Speed shifting wrecked the 3-4 synchro.

I know this question has been asked, but ill ask it again what kind of life can I expect from mine?.



I dont really tow very much. My trailer weighs around 10K. My GCW is close to 20K when fully loaded during summer months when I travel to the northwest.



Summer trips are usually around 4k loaded.



Mac