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NV4500 Clutch Swap Questions

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Purchase Question

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I recently installed the TST #11 plate and am really impressed by the difference in performance. Unfortunately, I found out all too quickly that the stock clutch is now the limiting factor. Done some research using this site & the many clutch-related posts have been really helpful - maybe a So. Bend in my future?? - any recommendations would be much appreciated. My truck is a daily-driver, so besides AFC spring, I will likely upgrade only exhaust & turbine housing in the future.

If anyone has done a clutch swap, what I am trying to learn is, do I need a special tool to separate the shifter extension from the base?? My shop manual indicates this to be a press-fit & shows a special tool - is there a trick someone has used?? Are there any other "gotchas" I should be aware of??

I am new to this group & am really impressed with it. Thanks all...

Mike T.

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98 2500 4x4 12v/5sp,QC,SLT,SWB
Flame Red, 72K at 03/01, 4. 10s, 35-inch BFGs on Welds, mild lift.
K&N, TST #11, DiPricol boost+pyro (more to follow after clutch infusion)
"when the going gets wierd, the wierd turn pro" - H. S. T
 
I thought all the 98's had the new style shift lever that simply unscrews. Are you looking at a 97 manual?

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1997 4x4 CC 5spd, 230hp kit, Horton fan, Sport headlamps, Optima RedTops, 98 shift levers and console, RS5000 shocks, Yaesu VHF radio, and BCT7 scanner in the overhead console... N7DAL.
 
I recently replaced my clutch & used a centerforce df, but since have heard that it may be insufficient. It is currently holding up ok, I have a #11 tst plate & 16cm housing, which is as far as I plan on going for now. Search some older threads & see what other members have suggested so you can get the one which best suits your needs/budget.

Regarding the shifter, I just unbolted the whole shifter base assy from the transmission & pulled it out through the cab. be sure to cover the hole though (duct tape!!!!!!!!).

Good luck.

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'98 reg cab 12v, 5-sp

[This message has been edited by KSTRS (edited 03-07-2001). ]
 
My shop manual is your ol' basic Haynes version - OK for torque specs & such but weak when it comes to drivetrain-specific info. It shows that on the NV3500 the whole shifter base gets yanked, but for the 4500 the "separator" tool is used. I have not yet had a peek, but I'm pretty comfortable now. Either I'm lucky and the shift lever will unscrew or I'll yank the whole top cover - my transmission is definitely a '98... .

As far as the clutch choice, I would like a little more "BOMBing headroom" than what I've read the DF offers (but glad to hear yours is holding up well KSTRS). I'll likely go to the next $ level - will be towing boat. I'm interested to see upcoming reviews on the new ceramic So. Bend & have read MUCH good stuff on the Donnelly-Sachs. I am put-off with the McLeod price & the fact that it uses undamped plates... .

Thanks a bunch for the help guys, hopefully I can return the favor one day... .

Mike

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98 2500 4x4 12v/5sp,QC,SLT,SWB
Flame Red, 72K at 03/01, 4. 10s, 35-inch BFGs on Welds, mild lift.
K&N, TST #11, DiPricol boost+pyro (more to follow after clutch infusion)
"when the going gets wierd, the wierd turn pro" - H. S. T
 
shift lever removal
NO i repeat No seperator tool is needed.
if you weight in at 115(little woman) sit strattling the lever -grip with both hands and give a quick upwords thrust and the lever will hit you in the chin. when you reinstall for the next time you can put a thin film of grease/soap and the 4 year old can rempve it.
After you have the lever off if you have the type that has a retaine'r for the short -stub lever -push down with a rag on the retainer and rotatecounter clock wise. Reinstalation recuires stronger thumbs/or-lay the side of water pump pliers on top of the retainer and rotate.

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.
 
I just got my South Bend in today and it is great there is a little shutter taking off on 2nd just like the Donnelly/Sachs. No slippage at all in any gear, which is a vast improvement over my old Luk Pro Gold. Peddle pressure is approx. 10% more than stock. South Bends centering stud set up is great. No goofing with trying to get the pressure plate centered. I put a dial indicator on it just for kicks and it was perfect. Less than . 0005 variation.

Getting the shifter out on mine a 97 I need a third hand. I pushed down with two lrge screw drivers and my buddy used a third to rotate the collar. The cross member was a hassle, I think the frame rails got sprung closer together over night. I took the trans out last night pulled the rear cover and took the fifth gear nut off in 2 1/2 hours (the fifth gear nut alone took me 45 minutes, that sucker was tight) And today in seven hours I did the clutch, fifth gear nut, and installed guages and DD2 injectors in my buddies 98 1/2 24 valve. I also just went for a drive tonight just to use the power that I made in Oct and am finially able to use.

Good luck with your up come adventure #ad
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EAT'M UP
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, & Psychotty Air System, TST #11, 370 HP injectors, timing at 16 deg. , 16CM2 housing, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, Rad fan removed, AmsOil Through out, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil Bypass system, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 255/85R16, South Bend's Hypo Clutch*NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

[This message has been edited by drawson (edited 03-10-2001). ]
 
drawson, I am glade the clutch worked out for you. We are addressing that little bit of shudder in 2nd gear with our up coming Dyno Max clutch kit. Waiting for Bblair to install the prototype. The centering kit is slick isn't it? Glad you can get the power to the ground without spending lots of $$$. Again I want to thank you for the business! Peter
 
I'm working on the install, I have the transfer case and 2 speed out and the trans comes out tonight. Does anyone in California (Bay Area) have the Miller tool for removing the 5th gear nut. I am going to replace the nut while I am in there. I have all the parts but the dealer lost there tool that I was going to borrow. Standard trans told me to use an air chisel but I'm a little leary on that one.
 
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