Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) nv4500 disassembly help? walkthrough available?

[Rogan]

I'm disassembling my nv4500 to replace the late-style auxilliary shaft, or countershaft (whatever it's called. . ), as it has 2 teeth broken off of 2nd gear. The 2nd grar on mainshaft is fine, no burrs or anything.



I know I need a couple roll-pin punches, just don't know what size yet.



I've got the top cover off, as well as the input shaft sleeve, and 5th gear cover off.



Is there a guide or something that one of you great people have (digitally) that I could get a copy of? I'm not sure what all I need to disassemble, in order to get the bottom shaft out, and the new one in. .



Any assistance is greatly appreciated, as always! Thanks, in advance.





Rick

 

[SRadke]

PM me your email, I'll send it to you.

In a nutshell you'll have to pull everything off the back of the mainshaft, unbolt the bearing retainer, pop the outer race out, then cut the cage and knock the rollers out of the bearing. At that point with the input shaft removed you can finagle the the mainshaft and all of it's gears up out the top of the case.

-Scott

 

[Rogan]

will do, thanks!

 

[Rogan]

So, last night, I dove into disassembling the 4500. 1h18m later, It was apart.

Waiting on countershaft rear bearing to come in (thurs) and I'll put it back together.

As for the rear bearing replacement, I think I'm gonna try what we used to do on the farm, when dealing with tractor's press-on bearings (and not having a press). . freeze the shaft, heat the bearing in oil. . put the shaft in, slip the hot bearing on, call it done. ... hopefully. LOL


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[SRadke]

Put the shaft back in, stand it on end, and drive the new bearing on with a properly sized piece of pipe. No problem. Freezing and heating works too, but you only get one chance to get it right before you're on plan "B"

-Scott

 

[Rogan]

Put the shaft back in, stand it on end, and drive the new bearing on with a properly sized piece of pipe. No problem. Freezing and heating works too, but you only get one chance to get it right before you're on plan "B"



-Scott

LOL that's true, on the one-shot.

I'll try to locate a piece of pipe with the proper I. D...

I need to hurry this thing back together, as my current trans is sounding worse with each passing day.

 

[Rogan]

So I Got the new counter-shaft in, on Thursday afternoon. Rebuilt the 4500 Thursday evening. I have to say, it was rather easy. PVC pipe makes an excellent bearing driver, as well as seal removal tool to replace the rear housing/output seal on the trans.

On Friday afternoon, I got my creeper and hand tools out, and started pulling the bad trans out of the truck. 2. 5hrs later, the trans, t-case and all were out.
In putting the rebuilt trans back in, it totally kicked my butt. Took me the better of 2 hrs, just to get the input shaft through the clutch disc. I attribute much of this to just fatigue on my body. Finally got it together, and putting the t-case back on, I noticed that the front output shaft of the t-case had a good bit of side-side play. Yeah, I need to replace/rebuild the 241DLD. I have a fresh 241DHD in the garage, but I need the bigger rear slip yoke on my drive-shaft for it. . Trying to find one now.

At any rate, I get it all back together. The thing shifts like butter! And, I can downshift now (never have been able to do that, with the old trans! )

But on the first test drive, I notice something new. . An insane vibration through the floor with any load of the drive-train. . It feels like a stuck CV/Cardan joint, beating the floor. It does it in a straight line, under load. light/no-load, it doesn't do it. And it does it vigorously when I make a right-hand turn, under even the slightest drive-train load (slight acceleration, etc. )

Also on start-up and shutdown of the engine, it almost feels like the t-case it beating against the floor, but there's ample clearance around everything, so I'm not really sure what the heck to look at. the trans mount seems good and cross-members seem tight.

I removed the front drive shaft, just to see if it was a bad cardan joint, or the likes. . The vibration/beating seems to lighten ever so slightly, but it's still there. It's easy to notice it, as it's still quite harsh.

Anyone ever experience this? It does feel like it's beating the floor or something, as I feel it under/through my feet. The shifter doesn't seem to transmit the banging up through the handle, however. . Only a slight vibration in the handle. Same with the 4wd selector handle.

 

[SRadke]

Clearance on the downpipe and exhaust system? Still have the mount for the exhaust on the bellhousing and trans mount?

Good to hear you're running anyhow. I typically assemble the bellhousing with clutch fork and bearing, trans, and transfer case then install as a unit. It's heavy but minimal alignment required.

 

[Rogan]

I found the 'vibration'. . it was so simple, I felt stupid. When I originally converted the truck from auto to manual, I'd cut the floor with just a little clearance around the shifter tower.
Apparently, while installing the replacement trans, I shifted it ever-so-slightly to the right (or something). . when I pulled the shifter boot up yesterday evening, I saw where the shifter tower was about 1/8" away from the edge of the hole. I "clearanced" that to about 3/8-1/2" and viola! The 'vibration' is gone.

Minor oversight on my part, obviously.

Thanks, Scott. I'm so glad it's all back together and good to go. Now, I can get focused on the 24V and get it running. .
I would've pulled the entire assembly, but I didn't plan on anything with the clutch, so I felt pulling just the trans would be easier. .
Hindsight 20/20. . LOL