NV4500 questions/problems

[Ladders]

My y2k is getting hard to put in rev (and now 2nd)like the "gate" is closed. Anyone with this or had this, and what is the solution (if any)? Will be making appt w/dealer for someother work so... .

Have Amsoil in it with the PTO filter. Will be doing a filter and oil chg to the LE607. 47k on the trans and about 35k on the oil.

Also, read somewhere about Castrol only for this trans, or is this not a problem for the y2k?

Is the y2k still a problem 5th gear and what should I look for if it is (when I change the oil)?

The answers to these should help others and not be real specific unless they need to be.

TIA... .

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

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"Drifty" is a y2k SLT L. E. 2500QC/SWB/5sp w/PTO filter kit/3. 54LSD w/Mag-Hytec/bed spray/camper&tow/Ball valve oil drain/25. 5k 5th hitch/muffler&resonator STOLEN?/Nerf bars/E-Brake/etc
45k+ @ 1100+ hrs in 18. 5 months.
Not Stroking, BUT, RAMming it Home! SOTSU!! aka \\BF//

[This message has been edited by Ben Stair (edited 04-25-2001). ]

 

[Ladders]

TTT, 4 ans - waiting... .....

\\BF//

 

[Sled Puller]

Do not switch to the LE 607. These transmissions need a synthetic to keep the heat down.
It is not warrantied for that transmission. The Amsoil is, and from my what I have seen, the Series 2000 is possibly the best lube for that transmission.
Your problem is not oil related.
Do a search, lots of info from the past on this site.
Gene

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1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 "One Piece At A Time" Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

If shifting into all gears isn't impaired, the problem is probably not synchros but the clutch disk wobbling enough to prevent clean disengagement. Time for a new/better clutch. The LuK hub seems to be marginal for some usage/driving styles. Unfortunately many of the aftermarket clutches offer more torque capacity but still use the LuK parts for the disk hub.

I also recommend that anyone who wants to try lubes other than Castrol use a temp gauge with two senders, one in the trans fill plug and one in the diff (get brass 3/4 NPT plugs and drill and tap for the 1/8 NPT sensor. Then you can monitor absolute temps and relative temps between the two. The latter is valuable to see if one lube makes the trans run hotter than another lube. In other words, you would see if the trans is at the same temp as the diff under different conditions, or the trans is getting hotter (not good). Castrol usually keeps the trans temp down. Depending again on what diff fluid you use, it may or may not be cool but still serves as a comparator because temps vary with ambient temp and load.

 

[Ladders]

Whell, to all the e-mails - THX.

Did talk with dealer and they want me to go back to the Castrol before they look at it (xtnd warr).

Called Standard Trans & Gear (800. 783. 8726; web site is under: standardtransmission.com) to order the fluid and talked with Kevin. The oil is on the web site @54$gal (if anyone is interested) + s/h. Which after all my searching is a GREAT price. I also asked about the 5th gear and yes its still a "problem", will take 2 days to r&r the trans if you go there. Figure 3 days/2 nites, to be "safe". They don't have a lift and use another shop for the remove/install. All they do is the trans. For pricing, call them as I didn't ask the pricing.

Now we wait till the oil gets changed and see ifn it helps the shifting prob. If not, maybe the dealer will r&r the trans or replace. If this happens, I might consider another clutch - any ideas? Read the posts and would like a "better" than stock but w/o the chatter/grabing/etc. Course, cost would be a factor (altho not a big one) vs life of clutch. Don't think I need a "puck" style (not gonna go for 500hp), as I'm pretty satisfied with power now.

Just the updates.

MGM, I will be talking with the local Amsoil rep about the problem/warranty, just in case.

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

EDIT: to correct spellings & add ST&G ph #

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"Drifty" is a y2k SLT L. E. 2500QC/SWB/5sp w/PTO filter kit/3. 54LSD w/Mag-Hytec/bed spray/camper&tow/Ball valve oil drain/25. 5k 5th hitch/muffler&resonator STOLEN?/Nerf bars/E-Brake/etc
47k+ @ 1100. 4+ hrs in 19 months.
Not Stroking, BUT, RAMming it Home! SOTSU!! aka \\BF//

[This message has been edited by Ben Stair (edited 04-28-2001). ]

 

[Ladders]

UPDATE:
Changed the fluid yesterday and waiting for results.
Did find out I have a "slight" leak from the bell housing, unkown source ATT. What you all think, Eng rear seal or??. Did not see this leak at last oil change (about 3k ago) or is this a "normal" drip (yes, a drip with a drip #ad
#ad
).

The bottom of the trans had a very light coat of "grey" metal shavings. Hope the Castrol will solve the problems (shifting) but now wondering (and lost) if the trans is not in a self-destruct mode, or just seeing normal wear. Sent sample off to lab.

The rear end sample results came back with "Wear in your sample was easily normal. ". The only problem to report is the abrasion - you may want to change out this lube to keep wear in line... . this was using the Amsoil 75w/90... . HMMMMMM. Using the same oil, soooooo... .

On another post saw a dealer "voiding" due to MH cover and Amsoil. When I had the leaking axle seal, dealer replaced and added Amsoil w/o any issue, so is it that DC has now made the C part do less warranty work due to the "profit" issue (GERMANS!!!). OR, could it be that they are making dealers "eat" more warranty work? (like we read about the profits are down so DC can be more "profitable")

Just a few mill$ questions but NO answers, YET.

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

 

[John Berger]

I'm probably the warranty denial you referred to. I took the truck to another dealer and after trying a few things (i. e. fluid change, fluid amount, etc) they replaced the entire housing under warranty. No more leaks. Now I'm having a shifting problem(mainly on startup or trying to come out of neutral) and I'm hoping it's my clutch and nothing more. I have the PTO filter and just put a new filter and lube in last month. I went back to the factory stuff from Amsoil and I'm wondering if that might have been a mistake. The symptons appear to indicate that it is probably the clutch. A new clutch hydraulic system(slave and master cylinder, switch) replacement did not solve the shifting problem. It shifts smoothly under load, but it sometimes it doesn't want to go into first gear. Other times it won't go into any gear, which is usually after I start it up. When I first encountered the problem, I couldn't get it to shift into any gear from neutral.

 

[ramman]

Sounds like the pilot bearing could be your problem,not letting the inputshaft freewheel or stop turning. jmho ramman

 

[MikeBeggy]

Experienced the same problem

I have a 99 5 speed I ordered new. I am the only driver. I changed to Amsoil at 10k miles also adding the pto filter. About a year later, 60k or so, I began to have similar problems getting into gear and some hard shifting in general (oil replaced at 40k with Amsoil). After reading some threads on the use of other than Castrol and then calling Standard Transmission, I changed back to the Castrol synthetic as stated on the transmission tag. My shifting has improved to 75% of what it used to be. This was the only change I made including driver and use of the truck. After consulting with the Standard Trans guys again, I believe that there is some additive in the Castrol that is required for proper syncro function. I have definitely damaged my trans by not using the factory recommended lube. I would bet that as time and more miles go by that other TDR members using other than Castrol will start reporting similar results. Oh well... .

 

[John Berger]

The nice thing about the Amsoil lube is that Amsoil backs their lube up in writing with a good warranty. I'm not having a problem shifting gears, it's just getting it into gear at startup and the occasional shift from neutral to any gear. I think I may have solved my problem, however. See the post on Slave cylinder update.

 

[GeneA]

I think ramman hit it on the head. At least on two separate occasions for me it was the pilot bearing. But there was an article in TDR some time back that just changing that will not solve the problem. Something like an input shaft (?) is to blame. I replaced the clutch with and 800 ft-lb high performance at Precision Power at 120,000 miles--now have 157,000 and no further problem with it.