Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) NV5600 Swap?

[DieselNasty]

I want to put in an NV5600 and I know it is pretty straight forward because of later 2nd gens having one. My real Q is what can I do about my T-Case, What will I have to do in order to run a NP271hd? I can use the dodge one, but I really want to Ford version with out the slip yoke. What are all my options here for doing this and what will I have to change?

 

[Woodenhead]

For the 5600 there are lots of posts here about the conversion, it's been a few year but here's what I can remember:

-Front DS add 6"

-Rear DS remove 6"

-New Cross Member

-Bend transfer case lever

-Extension on wiring for speedo pickup

-Clutch, 13" South Bend with 1. 375 input shaft assuming of course that you have a 5600 with the bigger input shaft, some had a 1. 25" input.



Can't help you on the transfer case question.

 

[SRath]

With a '94 you will run into speedo sender problems (a lack of one) with any 271 t-case. Your stock '94 sender is in the NP241 t-case. Later models ('98 and up I think) have the sender in the rear axle.



The rest of the swap is just mechanical. Kits are available even. I'm doing the same swap in my '96 but I'm installing a Ford NP205 t-case behind the NV5600. Getting around the speedo sender problem is actually easy that way. I looked hard for either a NP241DHD or a 271 for my swap. But once I found out I could have a NP205 instead, I ditched the aluminum case/chain drive stuff.



There's nothing wrong with a 241DHD or a 271, but I like a cast iron case and geardrive better. The NP205 is a tough, proven t-case that's hard to beat.



You should be able to convert a slip yoke 271 to a fixed yoke, just as you can with an NP205. So don't pass up a good deal on slip yoke version if you're set on installing a 271. Whatever you get, you will probably want to rebuild it before installing anyway.

 

[DieselNasty]

Yea I can get a 271 easy, it will come with the transmission so I guess I'm going to have problems with my speedo. How much is the 205 and what would it take to get one in?

 

[Boomer II]

I did mine with a kit from Home

 

[Dave M]

I did mine with a kit from Home

Since we both has same truck I'm curious about what was needed and how much the transmission cost and anything unexpected that came up. Quad 4x4 looks kinda expensive. Are they still selling them? I've heard Blumenthals has NV5600 too. Why did you pick them? Were did you get your driveshafs? Are you happy with the results?

 

[SRath]

I was able to get a Ford NP205 at a nearby salvage yard for $100. I will completely rebuild it for @ $130 before installing. The complete AA kit is $414 to adapt it to the NV5600/4500. It is just a spacer and a spud shaft and gaskets&bolts.



The shifter will use a fabricated mounting bracket using the Ford NP205 shifter or maybe even a twin-stick, so I have both 2wd and 4wd lo-range capability. Looks cool, too.



You have options on the front axle CAD: basic vacuum switch (cheapest); complete changeout and upgrade to lockouts and much stronger solid inner shafts and serviceable hubs and bearings (very, very nice but pricey); or you can use a Posi-Lock cable actuator for $175 and never have a vacuum actuator problem again.



A mechanical to electronic pulse speedo adapter for a Ford only cost me $20 new on ebay, but figure $50. I may or may not need to spend another $75 for a Dakota Digital SGI-5 interface unit to change the pulse to what the Dodge speedometer needs (some simple industry standardization would be too much to ask, I guess).



This all does not include the driveshaft shortening/lengthening that the NV5600tranny swap makes mandatory anyway. I will also be using the Ford t-case mounts and fab them to my frame for extra t-case support.

 

[Boomer II]

I went with them because at the time they had the last of the brand new trannys. I had my drive shafts modified locally and have been very happy with this setup. Having 3 vacations ruined losing 5th gear was enough for me. It's nice to know you'll make the round trip with all six gears and they're spaced perfect for towing. It was an expensive deal, but I put the 5 speed in my Jeep, if I lose 5th there it's no big deal, don't need it for wheeling anyway.

 

[DieselNasty]

I have the dynatrac free spin hub conversion already, It looks like im going to try and find 241 DHD to make everything easier unless i really feel like buying new driveshafts for the 271.

 

[SRath]

How complete is the Dynatrack kit you installed? Did you opt for the one-piece 35-spline inner shafts? Cold-forged Spicer u-joints? Warn premium lockout hubs? How much did you end up spending all together and how well did the install go?



That Dynatrack kit would be my first choice for "bulletproofing" the front axle if it weren't for the price. Together with a Power-Lok front posi, the NP205 and NV5600, SBC clutch, locked Dana 80 rear, and, of course, the 12-valve Cummins; I can't dream of a better drivetrain for my pickup. Given enough time (to get enough money), that is my goal. I have everything except the Dynatrack kit pretty much gathered up. Just waiting for winter (snowplowing) to end so I can clear the shop and have my truck down long enough to do the installation of it all.



Since you already have that Dynatrack kit and are clearly building your truck for maximum toughness, I don't understand why you want an aluminum-cased, chain-driven transfer case, even the respectable NP241DHD, when you could just as easily have the legendary cast-iron, gear-driven NP205. . ? I don't believe there is much comparison for brute strength and longevity, not to mention on-and-off road hazards that can easily punch a hole in aluminum. Just curious... I'm trying to get a handle on why this isn't the most popular t-case conversion here. . ?