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NV5600 Won't go into gear at a full stop

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Truck in sig. The truck has 137,000 miles on the original clutch. The fluid was changed a month ago with stock fluid. I have always had good luck with the Pennzoil. Leaving work today I couldn't get her in Reverse at all or any other gear for that matter. I couldn't roll forward as there was a car in front of me. I turned the truck off and put it in reverse and then started truck up and drove home. The trans didn't like it when I was at a light and tried to put her in gear. She got better as I drove, and putting her in 5th then 2nd at lights helped a lot. I'm leaning towards the pilot bearing is on it's way out. What do you guys think???



Thanks!!!!
 
Been shifting without the clutch?

Clutch hydraulics or bad synchro frictions would be another cause.
 
HOBrian,



I like the idea of testing and you can test the hydros independant of the clutch. I have guessed hydro's in these situations and I have guessed pilot too, have not kept score.



Hydro inspection. First fluid inspection. Low? It went somewhere. With normal wear fluid level gets higher in NV5600 master cyl reservoir. Next, pull slv cyl from trans. Remove pushrod and boot, wet behind boot, not good. Now, get a steering wheel puller, bolt to slv cyl flange. Blocking slave piston. Push pedal by hand, observe master cyl pushrod travel, 1/8" to a hard pedal BY HAND is good, more = air or other issues. Correctly working stock hydro's will allow for reserve travel. Pedal comes off of floor maybe 2" or more before friction zone.



Good luck.
 
Okay, let's forget about the pilot bearing for a minute. The more I drove the truck about 30 min into my trip home the trans started to act more normal. I do 50/50 city highway so I do use the clutch a lot. Having no real idea about what I'm going to say here please bear with me. If I had bad hydros would it be possible for the system to "pump up" as I used them making the trans shift better after set time???

Next question, with 137k on the stocker is it better to replace the hydros by themselves or do I do everything at once. clutch and hydros???

Edit: I have no time to check the hydros myself:(
 
I did a trans overhaul & clutch upgrade this May (150K). The pilot had failed & scored the input shaft. Mine was still shifting OK stopped & underway. New clutch came with filled hydro.
 
I would also guess hydraulics. In the morning after sitting all night, jump in and push the clutch down (do not pump) for 15-20 seconds. Can you feel the resistance fade away?

Nick
 
Mine was doing this same thing a while back. My issue was the pilot bearing and throwout bearing were trash. I put a new clutch assembly in including both bearings and all was good.



I had 200k+ on my original clutch at the time. I can tell you that I don't abuse clutches as both the clutch disk and pressure plates showed very little wear and I could have put them back in. I did not take pictures for the ney-sayers, but it was amazing how little disk / plate wear there was.
 
I would guess hydraulics first.

HOBrian,

I like the idea of testing and you can test the hydros independant of the clutch. I have guessed hydro's in these situations and I have guessed pilot too, have not kept score.




Hydro inspection. First fluid inspection. Low? It went somewhere. With normal wear fluid level gets higher in NV5600 master cyl reservoir. Next, pull slv cyl from trans. Remove pushrod and boot, wet behind boot, not good. Now, get a steering wheel puller, bolt to slv cyl flange. Blocking slave piston. Push pedal by hand, observe master cyl pushrod travel, 1/8" to a hard pedal BY HAND is good, more = air or other issues. Correctly working stock hydro's will allow for reserve travel. Pedal comes off of floor maybe 2" or more before friction zone.

Good luck.

I would also guess hydraulics. In the morning after sitting all night, jump in and push the clutch down (do not pump) for 15-20 seconds. Can you feel the resistance fade away?

Nick

Well, I went out this AM and found no fluid in the in the master cylinder! So thanks guys for for all your input!!! I'm putting in a call to Xtreme Diesel in South Jersey for a heavy duty upgrade!!!!!

You guys ROCK!!!!
 
I would get an adjustable hydraulic master/slave cylinder upgrade. Unfortunately, there is a good chance your throwout bearing is shot as well.

I had the same problem you had and just replaced my clutch with a South Bend Dual Disc and a new adjustable clutch upgrade. My old clutch still had life in it, but the throwout bearing was trashed. And a lot of travel was lost with the trashed throwout bearing so the clutch was not fully releasing. The adjustable hydraulics give you a lot more to work with.

Blake
 
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