Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) O.K. to block off heater hoses?

[biggy238]

I have a pretty good leak coming from the heater core and i'm not going to have the chance to fix it immediately. Willl it be alright to unhook the rubber hoses and plug them until I can fix this?

 

[Nate]

I don't see why it would be a problem other than you won't have heat.

 

[biggy238]

well see i'm affraid it's going to drop my coolant level, in which case i'll have WAY too much heat... All in how you look at it



But yeah it will kill my warm air for a little while. .



I discussed it with my local parts guys and said a hose from one port to the other would be the best bet.



91 for a heater core... and disassemble the dash... woo-hoo

 

[fortunate1]

Won't be a problem at all. I needed to do this last summer because of a leaky heater core. Just remove the 2 hoses from the core and reconnect them with a U-fitting (or use a longer hose) to form a "bypass". You'll still have all the coolant you need, and can wait to replace the core and re-plumb for heat in the fall. But don't simply plug the core or the hoses; they should reconnect so the coolant can circulate fully.

 

[Matthug]

Fortunate1 is right, don't just plug it recirculate it. I did this on out 78' dodge dump truck at work when it leaked at the core and it works fine no overheating. A coolant system isn't designed to 'need' a heater core in line to keep it cool.

 

[Matt42]

Bypassing the heater core

Fortunate1 is right, don't just plug it recirculate it. I did this on out 78' dodge dump truck at work when it leaked at the core and it works fine no overheating. A coolant system isn't designed to 'need' a heater core in line to keep it cool.

I do it every summer, but for a different reason. It improves the cool air coming out of the air conditioner. When it's 115 out, the cab tempreature after sitting a while will be 140+, which I have measured. The heater core and evaporator are in the same box, separated by a mildly insulated door. Cutting down on heat input into that box helps.



Both leaky heater core and evaporator replaced in 2004. Not fun.

 

[Matthug]

Matt, tell me about it. I just put A/C in my truck, didn't come with it from the factory. I took my old box out and replaced it with a unit from a donor truck. So in essence I did everything twice(I took the box out of the donor truck myself), double not fun! That definitely makes sense to cap off the heater core lines to improve A/C efficiency.

Believe it or not it's nicer out in AZ than it is here some days. I'd gladly take 115 degrees and 0% humidity over 95 and tropical type humidity. I'm so glad A/C takes out the humidity.

 

[Matt42]

A/C and Humidity

Matt, tell me about it. I just put A/C in my truck, didn't come with it from the factory. I took my old box out and replaced it with a unit from a donor truck. So in essence I did everything twice(I took the box out of the donor truck myself), double not fun! That definitely makes sense to cap off the heater core lines to improve A/C efficiency.

Believe it or not it's nicer out in AZ than it is here some days. I'd gladly take 115 degrees and 0% humidity over 95 and tropical type humidity. I'm so glad A/C takes out the humidity.

I'd rather have 115 and our customary 7% humidity, also. We spend a week in the St. Louis area every couple of years. In the 90s and so humid our glasses fog up when we walk out of an air cooled space. This year in Arizona isn't as dry as usual, so it's not a dry heat like we say. August is usually pretty bad; hot and high (for Arizona) humidity. Condensation pours out of the evaporator drain.



In June, it's usually cooler in Death Valley than here.

 

[Matthug]

You know it's bad when you can see your breath when it's 90+ out!