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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Odd tire valve stem problem, all of a sudden

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Squeaky clutch

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Just noticed to day, after parking my truck in the garage after driving in the rain, that I have a leak from my driver rear tire where the tire stem runs through the rim. I hear the "hissing" sound and track it to that spot. When I move the stem it changes the amount of air escaping bit does not stop it.



No idea why this started (or how long its been leaking like that). Didnt hit anything with that tire or anything. Could it just been that the stem failed? It would be 3 years old from when I got new tires (belle tire does stems for free).



Any idea's? I'm gonna start with getting a new stem. Any chance that it is something more serious than that? Like a crack rim or something. Anyone have a stem just give up like this?



My rims are the stock Aluminum wheels, no damage etc.



Thanks

J-
 
stems can go bad, My jetski trailer is less than a year old and both valvestems have gone bad. but in my instance, the rubber disbonded from the brass core.

I seriously doubt you have a cracked rim, there would be visible evidence if it was.
 
stems can go bad, My jetski trailer is less than a year old and both valvestems have gone bad. but in my instance, the rubber disbonded from the brass core.

I seriously doubt you have a cracked rim, there would be visible evidence if it was.





cool thats what I am thinking too. Thanks



J-
 
Sure enough, it happend to me. Had the bed loaded with vactation stuff and a small trailer on the back to pick up a snowmobile. 7am on a January Saturday the wife, dogs, and cat were already in the truck and what do I see just as I'm getting in to make the almost 900 mile round trip? Back tire flat-of course it's the inside one, too! Same problem as you. Turned out to be a bad valve stem. No damage to the rim or tire.
 
bolt in?

Is there such of a thing as a metal bolt in/screw in valve stem? One that doesnt have rubber that might be more durable and reliable?

Craig
 
Is there such of a thing as a metal bolt in/screw in valve stem? One that doesnt have rubber that might be more durable and reliable?

Craig



Yes there is and I learned the hard way many years ago. It's the first modification I do to a new truck within the first week of ownership. I take my truck to a real truck tire shop and have the rubber stems replaced with steel and no more valve stem failures. The tire/wheel has to be "broken down" to install the all metal truck tire stem.



Bill
 
Yes there is and I learned the hard way many years ago. It's the first modification I do to a new truck within the first week of ownership. I take my truck to a real truck tire shop and have the rubber stems replaced with steel and no more valve stem failures. The tire/wheel has to be "broken down" to install the all metal truck tire stem.



Bill



Bill, if you dont mind me asking, about how much does that cost usually? Ballpark? I may just have them do that to all the tires when I go in to get this one replace.



Anyone know what size I would need? I found some on line and it looks like that come in different diameters where is goes through the rim.



Thanks



J-
 
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I`ll second the 'real' truck shop, for some quality stems. All rubber ones are junk, for passenger tires. I run 80psi in my load range e's so the valves take it hard. Make sure they only install the valves that have a nut on the outside securing the stem. You can pick up a set at NAPA and take em to your tire guy. I`d recommend doing all 4 if you're gonna do anything.

if you have alum rims, corrosion inside the rim will cause the early failure/leakage of any stem, and possibly the bead. Also make sure the tire guy uses the black 'liquid rubber' to seal the stem, and reseal both beads. A little extra caution saves a flat in the middle of nowhere. .

As for cost, I remember paying about 5-8$ a stem at NAPA, installation can vary. The diameter is standard, same as a passenger tire, but if you have alum rims, you need to get a longer stem, I`d say 1. 25" where you can get by with a 3/4" for a steel rim.

good luck

-j
 
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I`ll second the 'real' truck shop, for some quality stems. All rubber ones are junk, for passenger tires. I run 80psi in my load range e's so the valves take it hard. Make sure they only install the valves that have a nut on the outside securing the stem. You can pick up a set at NAPA and take em to your tire guy. I`d recommend doing all 4 if you're gonna do anything.



if you have alum rims, corrosion inside the rim will cause the early failure/leakage of any stem, and possibly the bead. Also make sure the tire guy uses the black 'liquid rubber' to seal the stem, and reseal both beads. A little extra caution saves a flat in the middle of nowhere. .



As for cost, I remember paying about 5-8$ a stem at NAPA, installation can vary. The diameter is standard, same as a passenger tire, but if you have alum rims, you need to get a longer stem, I`d say 1. 25" where you can get by with a 3/4" for a steel rim.



good luck



-j



Thanks TP



J-
 
I would like to say that this is all good advice. A truck shop should have different length stems to fit what you need. Over a period of time I have had the bolt in ones to leak but all you have to do is tighten up the nut and you are set to go. The stems will have different set of bushings that comes with them, so all you have to do is use the correct one.
 
A couple years ago I had a screw in one of my tires. So I headed back to where I had purchased them, Discount Tire Co. While they had the truck in the service bay the manager came to me and said they wanted remove the other 3 tires/wheels and replace the valve stems and re balance all for FREE!!!! if I had the time to wait. I asked what was the reason? He said the stems they had install with the tires where bad and that there was a recall notice issued. I said go for it and thanks!



Update: A couple days age I received in the mail a recall notice from Discount Tire Co. about the stems. DUH . . 2 years late. #@$%!
 
There was a recall on valve stems about a year ago. Something to do with Chinese made valve stems. They were sold at many locations under various names.
 
My cousin's side of the family ran a tire shop for many years. He told me that the rubber valve stems are only good for about 40 psi. You don't want to have more than that. It's cheap insurance to pay the extra for metal valve stems.
 
Could be the rim too... I had one that wouldn't seal even with a new stem,and we tried several types at the heavy truck tire shop. The rim wan't cracked,but on the inside of the hole where the stem goes was pitted a little and we figured that was the source of the problem. Bought a reman wheel,and kept the old one figuring i would "clean-up" the hole in the future.
 
Check the valve stems on your trailer tires also. I had two rubber ones fail just sitting in the sun. Replaced all five (spare too) with metal ones. Cheap Chinese made junk.
 
update

Took my truck into Belle Tire and had the bolt through stems put in. All four stems, parts and labor was $50 out the door. Took about 40 minutes. Thanks for the suggestions to go to them.



Not only are they a better mouse trap they look better than the rubber ones. Plus I think I picked up about 8hp/10ft/lbs of torque, by seat of the pants-o-meter of course, LMAO... :rolleyes:



J-
 
Bill, if you dont mind me asking, about how much does that cost usually? Ballpark? I may just have them do that to all the tires when I go in to get this one replace.

J-



I don't remember the exact cost, but it was less than $10/wheel. They removed the wheels from the truck, broke the tire bead away from the rim on a bead breaker machine, reached inside the wheel to install the new stem from the inside and tightened the outside nut, re-aired the tire to the pressure I run, and re-installed the wheels on the truck. It took them a couple of hours for my dually.



Bill
 
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