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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission OEM Batteries Finaly Dead after 5 years ... But not silently

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Just had to put in 2 Red Top optima Batteries :cool: But here is the clincher, When the rig was new (800 miles old) I had the passenger Battery go BANG which took the paint down the inner fender and battery box with it. (dealer warranteed that puppy) The drivers side has been fine and has lasted 5 years and has a good life left in her too.



Yesterday whildst driving to lunch We smelled sulphur galore and saw a smolder from the passenger side. I pulled over and the passenger battery was hissin' and HOT and leakin its guts out. The battery was no longer even hard but a mushy battery that was mad. Soooo I disconnected it and continued to auto zone and got 2 new red tops and fired em in and man the truck starts quick again. I replaced BOTH now as a set as you should allways do so.





So WHY does the passenger side die first? or in my case semi frequently? I keep all my connections mint and clean and the cable is in great shape. Engine grounds and chassis grounds are in perfect shape too as that was another issue that some may remember.
 
Worse pavement on the right hand side of the road, vibration, whatever. I used to have a Buick diesel with two batteries, the passenger side one always died first. That was back when I lived in Michigan, the pothole state.
 
Mehhh I dunno 'bout that and all but it would seem to me anyhow that the difference in location is more so subjected to higher heat , voltage drop to a minor degree from that monster crossover cable, and a long ground taboot. However vibration could play a part in terms of resonance made by just the right frequency of vibration?? Who else had a battery go caps up on them?
 
TTMT- LOL



I was driving home yesterday approx 150 miles and my friend and myself smelt a terrible nasty rotten egg smell. I figured it was maybe the rat i hit on the road and it got on my exhaust or something. I kept going and got to my cousins house and popped the hood and major steam was coming out of the passenger side battery covers. It smelled terrible. I think it is toast, time for an optima! Kind of funny 2 batteries on TDR on the same day
 
My batteries are dying. I've been reading every battery thread I can find and I'm interested in the fact that you went the red-top route. None of the red-tops I've found come close to the 150 mins reserve capacity of the factory batteries. In fact, the only Optima that does the trick is the D31A (or equivalent) yellow-top. I think there are several guys running those here. Starting with a 750CCA and 150 mins RC EACH requirement I have narrowed the search down to:



Optima D31A yellow-top (900CCA/165 RC) $185 each (est)



Odyssey 1700 (875CCA/142 RC) $195 each (est)



Odyssey 2150 (1090CCA/200 RC) $245 each (est)



The above three are "true" maintenance free and I think several TDR members are using ONE of the above batteries in place of the dual setup. Although the verdict is out, it appears from me research that the Optima D31A WILL fit in the tray without modification. While I had my trays out I took one to a local Interstate dealer and we stuck a D31A in there. It sat "sideways" in the tray because of the spiracell silos. It did appear to make firm contact with the bottom of the tray. Both Odysseys are also Group 31 but are rectangular and require modification to the tray. I know WillySlover got a 2150 to fit in the stock location by sawing off the radiator side of the battery tray and using wood blocks underneath the battery.



Once you go "conventional" the options are HUGE. I'm really interested in fitting two Interstate Workaholic 31P-MHD in there... 950CCA and 195 RC for not much more than the MTP-65 batteries that are the "standard" recommendation from Interstate.



This is a long post, but I guess I'm in the dark as to how important the RC numbers are. I don't run an Espar or anything, but Indiana winters can get cold and the truck will sit in parking lots quite often. Do we really need these huge RC numbers for the grid heater? I know a lot of people are having good practical experience with the red-tops... so what gives?



Sorry for the rambling, I just need to make this decision coming up here pretty soon...
 
Don't worry so much about the RC Reserve Capacity. The Cold Cranking Amps are what you need to worry about. THe reserve capacity is applicable to continous draw amperage. I have two blue tops 34A Optima and they work great. But if you have the funds the 31A are a great battery I run them in my fishing boat that I use for starting the out board and running a trolling motor; great battery.
 
interesting article, i had 2 red tops in my 99 and they cranked fine. . traded for a 03 and the farmer wanted my red tops sooooooooooooooooooooo, he got them. i will consider the yellow top next time. . Dont want any acid on my truck and i don't like cleaning termanls or moving batterys... have a farmer friend,, has a red top in his tractor for 11 or 12 yrs and he says it's still starting... i have two Blue tops in my Boat for 3 yrs now, No problem so far..... That's good enough for this Radar Doctor... ...
 
Have two red tops in the truck-truck always starts. One red top in the car-car always starts. One yellow top in the trailer-lights always work. You know my vote.
 
Reserve Capacity IS a big issue for guys with extra or unusual electronic vehicle add-ons, such as big stereo amps and such - same for RVers, with the added extra RV running lights if they are left on for significant periods of time with the engine shut down.



I run high power amateur radio from my truck, often without the engine running - and I dern sure DON'T want to have to run the engine in those situations to make up for a compromise battery! And it's plain SOME guys WILL sacrifice that RC, just to get the Optimas the rest of the herd is switching to... :rolleyes: :p



I've never particularly BEEN a "crowd follower" myself! :-laf :-laf
 
Friend of mine bought a used Suburban. He told me that it had "This strange Red Topped battery in it". I told him that they were junk and I would be right over to trade him with mine. Unfortunately he knows me too well and decided to keep it. DARN
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
Reserve Capacity IS a big issue for guys with extra or unusual electronic vehicle add-ons, such as big stereo amps and such - same for RVers, with the added extra RV running lights if they are left on for significant periods of time with the engine shut down.



I run high power amateur radio from my truck, often without the engine running - and I dern sure DON'T want to have to run the engine in those situations to make up for a compromise battery! And it's plain SOME guys WILL sacrifice that RC, just to get the Optimas the rest of the herd is switching to... :rolleyes: :p



I've never particularly BEEN a "crowd follower" myself! :-laf :-laf



What are you using for batteries?
 
I bought my truck in Nov 2000 and hav put 130,000 miles on it. In that time I have abused the batteries in it. I started worrying about them last week. So I put two group 31's in it. just had to squeeze them in to the stock boxes. The truck starts a lot quicker.
 
Well Being this has come back up ... .



I have a 6 month report for ya. I like em alot!!!! I noticed that when the grid heaters cycle the power drains as usual ... BUT ... . when they click off power recovery is twice that of my old standard batteries when they were new. It is an instant recovery. I also noticed that voltage does not "Creep" with them.



For instance If I am cranking the heater , stereo (Amp is power hungry) lights and my inverter the ammeter needle on the dash does not creep up like it used to. I see a quick dip and the needle snaps back up to where it was. I acompany that to the recovery of the batteries themselves. We will see how they fair when it gets below zero.
 
We use a lot of Optimas at work with varied luck. One problem with the Optima is that they will recharge at what ever rate the alternator will feed it. We had a bunch of step-vans burn up the alternator to battery leads because they were too small for the rate of charge. We seem to have replace them if they are totally discharged a couple of times.
 
Guys,



I have been using the Odessey batteries for a couple of years now... they are like the Optimas but are 1700 amp... They are almost strong enough to use only 1 battery during the cold winter... Almost so 2 is great.



They are more expensive but they are said to last 8 years so we will see. I occasionally do a trickle charge overnight just to keep them topped up... .



I got them from Mr. Bob's... . I think they are like $200 each
 
JTryles said:
What are you using for batteries?



SO far, still using the OEM originals - they still appear tp be in perfect operating condition, but age is against them, so will plan to replace them in the spring with something even heavier duty in all aspects if I can find something appropriate.



I seriously doubt it will be an Optima type, tho' I *do* like their no-leak design. Whatever I do end up with will probably be the largest physical size I can crowd into the stock battery holders... :-laf :-laf
 
I had a problem with my batteries. The passenger side battery got very hot.

I would have been stranded if I hadn't been able to catch the truck in gear going backwards. I changed both batteries in the nearest Sam's Club parking lot. (with my handy dandy emergency tool kit)
 
group 31 is the largest battery that will fit the box. You will have to remove the little 45 degree braces at the bottom of the trray so the batteries will sit flat.
 
Well, winter has officially started here. Blizzard conditions outside.



Still running the original batteries that came in the truck 09/99. This'll be the 6th winter, and I'm betting they'll make it through. If not it'll be a cold walk home in the dark. :-laf
 
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