Offroad Lights Install Questions

[Giachino]

Couple of questions if you guys dont mind.



Just bought 2 100w 6. 25" Driving + 2 100w 5" Spots to install on a Randy Ellis Light Bar..... already have the stock fog lights... .



Questions:



1. Do most of you hook the lights to the high beams... . e. g. no switch necessary. or do most of you control the lights manually via switch... and why??



2. If I want to connect to the high beam circuit, whats the easiest way?

What wire am i looking for, and how do i get to it... ...



3. If I want to connect via switch (where do i tap into the power not related to the high beams? Cig Lighter??), whats the easiest way? What wire am I looking for and how do i get to it... .



4. Anyone install a wide angle backup light? (That one I'll put on a switch)... . What make /model did you use, and where did you mount the actual light? I cant seem to find one small enough to mount on my bumper... .



Thanks in advance, and sorry if any of these are stupid questions, I've never done this before.

 

[jelag]

I can't answer your questions... but have a comment... . In OR and WA if you can turn on more than low or Hi beams... ... 4 lights at one time..... your in for a ticket... .



And most states are that way. . that's why most fog light systems go off with high beans...



My new Jeep has 4 head lights and the fog light set... the fog lights come on with the low beam and when it lights the high beam you get both low and high beam but no fog lights...



It would be a shame to get a ticket at a routine stop... .

 

[Giachino]

I can't answer your questions... but have a comment... . In OR and WA if you can turn on more than low or Hi beams... ... 4 lights at one time..... your in for a ticket... .



And most states are that way. . that's why most fog light systems go off with high beans...



My new Jeep has 4 head lights and the fog light set... the fog lights come on with the low beam and when it lights the high beam you get both low and high beam but no fog lights...



It would be a shame to get a ticket at a routine stop... .

Yeah, I'm in Nazifornia, sure there's a law against it..... but I plan on being responsible with them, we dont have routine stops, and cops are pretty cool in my area, not too concerned with them giving me a hard time... . but we'll see.

 

[RMarkey]

I always install all of my front lights on a completely seperate switch, and if I have 4 lights, I use 2 switches. More options and less power through the relay, they are usually designed for just 2 lights, I think. I always use the KC's, they are made about 45 min from here so I just pick them up at the factory.



For reverse lights I used the 2 KC set and wired the relay into the backup lights so they work every time. I found that once I use them once, I want them every time so why clutter up the dash with another switch, I already have to many goodies up there. As it is I can't find a spot for a brake controller( or money)



Wiring is easy, the instructions that come with most lights are pretty clear usually. If not, almost all will wire up the same. A constant hot wire to the relay, a switched wire to the relay, and everything grounded and the one wire to the switch from the batt. that's per set of lights of course.



Personally, I've never had a problem with any of the about 5 trucks I've wired with aux lights. No law probs and no power probs. I've done a few a little different but like the stand alone lights a switches the best, that way they'll never interfere with any kind of warranty stuff if your factory wiring goes south. When I first started doing them I liked the idea of being able to kill all lights except for a few in the front if I wanted to make a mostly dark getaway from something. But now it's just easier. You won't have to find any colored wires for either low or highs (which was a little bit weird on a 2nd gen I did... ) and it is easily removable/repairable.



Let me know if you have any specific ?'s with whatever you decide to do.

 

[Giachino]

RMarkey, thanks for the input.....



The instructions are clear on the below and I think it matches what you said:

Battery to relay: "A constant hot wire to the relay"

Relay to Switch: "A switched wire to the relay"

Ground Switch and Relay: "everything grounded"



Its what to do with the third connection on the switch that I'm sketchy on... .

Is that what you're saying this is: "and the one wire to the switch from the batt. "... . if so, that means the lights will run off the batt if the switch is on? Couldnt I also use the Cig Lighter so it's Keyed? (and becasue it's right next to where I'm putting the switches, and so i dont have to go buy more wire?)



Thx again

 

[JCrockett]

I like to setup a double pole double throw switch (on/off/on). That way you can wire it to come on with you high beams, stay always off, or stay always on. It gives you more options to work with you lights and it is simple and easy to do. I have a wiring diagram in my RR if you want to take a look, and also my switch setup as well.

Just my . 02

 

[rbattelle]

Its what to do with the third connection on the switch that I'm sketchy on... .

Is that what you're saying this is: "and the one wire to the switch from the batt. "... . if so, that means the lights will run off the batt if the switch is on? Couldnt I also use the Cig Lighter so it's Keyed? (and becasue it's right next to where I'm putting the switches, and so i dont have to go buy more wire?)

There's nothing technically "wrong" with using the cigarette lighter power as the power source for the lights. However, you need to add up the power consumption of all the lights on your circuit that you want to be able to run simultaneously and calculate the resultant current. I believe the lighter is a 10-amp fuse, so you need to be sure you won't draw more than 10 amp or you'll be replacing fuses every time you turn on your auxilliary lights.



A "better" option would be to install an auxilliary electrical system relatively isolated from the main OEM system. I don't think you have the knowledge to do this, but that's alright... you don't have to do it this way.



I'm confused by your question about the "third connection on the switch". Your switch has 3 terminals? If so, then you've got yourself a double-pole switch and you can ignore the third terminal if you're not going to be switching two separate things.



Personally, I like to wire my auxilliary lights to independent switches rather than the high beams. It's much more flexible that way. My reverse light I'd wire to a double relay so that it comes on either by manual switch or in conjunction with the factory reverse lamps.



-Ryan

 

[bighammer]

A lighted switch has 3 terminals. One for the power, one for the accessory, and one for the internal light. I can't remeber the way you wire it up though. I think you can have it lighted all the time, or just when the accessory is on.

 

[rbattelle]

A lighted switch has 3 terminals. One for the power, one for the accessory, and one for the internal light. I can't remeber the way you wire it up though. I think you can have it lighted all the time, or just when the accessory is on.

You're right, I'm wrong. Forgot all about lighted switches...



-Ryan

 

[RMarkey]

Giachino...



If you really wanted to get relay happy, you could use a relay from the lighter to you switches I guess, with your power still coming from the battery so you don't have any fuse problems. Would make it so they are only on when key is on like you want, and wouldn't pull much power from the 10amp lighter. Just seems like an unneccesary step though. But it's what ever you want to do, just my 2 cents.



Personally I like having the lights not switched with the key. On occasion it's nice to just reach in and flip the switchs without having to fish my muddy/dirty hands for keys. What if you lose your keys somewhere in front of the truck at night, you'll need those lights to find those keys, wouldn't work if they were ignition on only!



A little unlikely situation, but it worked for my example. I think it was just easier to run them as a seperate system, makes things easier, especially for troubleshooting if you have a problem.

 

[lcaad1249]

I've got 4 130 W Dick Cepek lights all wired together. I wired the relays directly from the battery. Then I spliced into the cigarette lighter to get power for the switch. That way the key has to be in to operate. I figured if my keys are lost in front of my truck and my battery goes dead in the process I'm still stuck. Besides I've got flashlights.

 

[2-ND TIME]

Off road lights

Do add a piece of wire to a weather proof fuse holder and put that to the battery for positive use #14 for individual or 12 for both power supplies. If you want to power something from a ???? low or hight beam wire, wire in the coil from a relay then it only adds the coil current to the circuit which is usually 0. 148 amps which . Do take your gounds back beside the battery ( the one that has a ground point to frame. )So if you need to test it you have a circuit right there.

 

[MoparBob]

JCrockett,

I really like the switches you used for your lights. Where did you get those? Also, thanks for the diagram... will come in handy!

 

[rbattelle]

JCrockett,

I really like the switches you used for your lights. Where did you get those? Also, thanks for the diagram... will come in handy!

Also, is there a thread here on TDR where you're chronicling your progress on the 12v conversion? Looks awesome.



-Ryan

 

[MCummings]

I was thinking about this the other day as well.



We have roughly a 170amp alternator, and we are putting 400watts of lights?



Is that 40amps worth of power being drawn?



In that case,



What is the limit of light wattage we can put on our trucks without running the battery down?



How many amps does the truck use cruising 70MPH, a/c on, stereo, w/cruise control in an automatic truck?



(Did I just hijack this thread?)



Merrick

 

[testraub]

Ask Japol he just added light to his truck. We went switched thru relays to light them. Since I ain't seen the final product (the rat fink ) I can't tell how the wiring we did is working. But we did put seprate switches in for the AUX lighting.