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Extreme Offset

It is +40 millimeters.

The Backspacing is 6. 0"



If you went with a wider wheel and wanted to maintain stock offset you'd need backspace of 6. 5" on 9" wheels, and 7. 0" on 10" wide wheels. Ever since 2000 Dodge uses an extreme front-wheel-drive style offset.



Last I checked no such wheel exists, meaning aftermarket wheels will stick out more than stock.



Vaughn
 
Re: Extreme Offset

Originally posted by Vaughn MacKenzie

It is +40 millimeters.

The Backspacing is 6. 0"



If you went with a wider wheel and wanted to maintain stock offset you'd need backspace of 6. 5" on 9" wheels, and 7. 0" on 10" wide wheels. Ever since 2000 Dodge uses an extreme front-wheel-drive style offset.



Last I checked no such wheel exists, meaning aftermarket wheels will stick out more than stock.



Vaughn



I've done a lot of research on the issue and found only one wheel that would come close to factory specs (see attached). It's 18 x 8. 5 with 5. 5" back spacing. Most other aftermarket wheels offer 4. 5" at most! Not a lot of choices if trying to stay close to stock :(





http://www.aewheel.com/wheels_detail.cfm?id=255
 
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You're welcome Jerry :)



CSilkowski that's the best I've seen from Eagle. Budnik will do custom offsets and get you the closest of anybody, but once you order they're yours and they ain't cheap! I think they go to almost 6" backspace on their 8" rims. I was seriously considering them.



I'm more mad at Dodge than the aftermarket wheel makers because they decided to go so deep. If you had a Ford or Chevy you'd have tons of choices. From a performance standpoint Dodge has a lot better setup but since they're marching to a different drummer and the #3 in sales the wheel manufacturers aren't jumping in to do the extreme offsets.



The only one really doing anything is Rickson, but then you're talking about a totally different lineup of tires.
 
Vaughn,



I am aware of a few that will make custom wheels but for me they are cost inhibited as I expect to beat the wheels up on back roads or no roads at all :)



For me, the wheel I attached the link on is a balance between fit and price, as the wheel costs about $180 versus $500 for some custom wheels I've found. Like Jerry, I may opt for flares if I get too many rock chips.



Thanks for the info on Budnik. I will see what they have to offer.



Chris
 
I have Allied wheels. They are black steel wheels, 17x8 with 5" BS. Not stock but the closest I could find.



I called Stockton about wheels. Very expensive. I think I was quoted $155 for steel a wheel without powder coating or shipping. My Allied wheels cost me $65 per and they are the same specs as the Stockton wheels. :D
 
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I knew Stockton was a little pricey, but they will do about anything you want.



I talked to them about a set of wheels to put large boggers on the front and HUGE boggers on the rear of my dually to do a couple of pulls.



They basically said "tell me what you want"!
 
OK guys, you all seem to have done your homework. What works on a 2500 with the 2" leveling kit? I'm not real concerned about sticking out of the fenders a little, but I don't want to look like I don't have fenders!
 
Chromed Steel

OK... . I'll preface this with a comment that I'm an idiot about this wheel stuff. But hey... that's what TDR is all about right... . gettin help where help is needed??



I have 17" x 8" chromed steel wheels on my Ram -- at least I think they are steel (a magnet somewhat sticks to em). I'm leaning towards getting replacement wheels and larger tires. If I do get replacements, I should get aluminum alloy wheels? or not?? What's considered to be better? There has to be a big weight difference??



Secondly, I see a post above about an 18" wheel that fits our trucks. I've also seen posts about 19" Alcoa wheels that will fit. You mean I don't have to stay with 17" like my stock. I always assumed that I would need to stay with 17", but could go wider... . like 17" x 9" or 10". HELP :eek:



Lastly, can someone post some good sites on where the best places are to buy aftermarket wheels.



Thanks in advance guys... . obviously i'm all confused here.
 
Re: Chromed Steel

Originally posted by StephenThomas

If I do get replacements, I should get aluminum alloy wheels? or not?? What's considered to be better? There has to be a big weight difference??



It's personal preference. If you go with aluminum you'll need to make sure it's capable of at least 3,200 lbs. Would not suggest two-piece aluminum wheels as they are not as strong as one-piece. Billet or machined wheels are also stronger than forged, but very hard to find ones fitting our trucks.



"You mean I don't have to stay with 17" like my stock. "



I believe (and other TDR members correct me if I'm wrong) we are only restricted from going small than 17" due to brake clearance and that anything taller will work. BFG makes an A/T for an 18" rim that is very close to the same dimensions as the 285/70/17 (~33" tall).



"Lastly, can someone post some good sites on where the best places are to buy aftermarket wheels. "



Generally, the best sites are the manufactures sites (i. e. , americanracing... , americaneagle... ... , etc. ) as they usually provide greater technical detail than a distributor's site would provide (say tirerack... ).



Disclaimer - the above includes my preliminary conclusions and incomplete thoughts :D
 
Hate to tell you this CSilkowski, but forged is way stronger than billet.



Molecular structure is laminar in billet and cut into during machining.



Forged on the other hand has a grain flow following the contours of the part.



Weakest: Casting - molten metal poured into a mold, no grain structure, but cheap beacause it is near net shape and you don't end up with drums of chips to finish the product.



Median: Billet - Rolled into a billet with a laminar structure, stronger than cast, but plenty of chips to throw away after machining so it's more expensive than casting. Plus the structure has been cut into.



Strongest: Forged - The most expensive of them all. It's a near net shape, so there are few chips as in the casting process. But, a forging starts out as billet with a known grain flow and is "hammered" into shape through a series of progressive dies to achieve the near net shape and a grain flow that follows that shape and is more dense.



I'm done now :D
 
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