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Oh Boy-My First Check Engine Light

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pump timing

275s+ez=?EGT

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Well the good news is I have a PS boost module now and after about the 6th start up in 2 days I have a check engine light on the dash. All I have is a VA. Whats up with this and how do I loose the check engine light?

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99-24V-2500-Laramie-SLT-A/T-LSD-355
All Options except cab lights and carpet-Rino- Prime-Loc-Alcoa wheels-Lund cold front-Factory Tows-DSG Electronic Fast Idle-Mag-Hytec transmission Pan+Rear Diff. Cover -Tekonsha Voyager- VA CPC -Rancho 9000-5000 steering stabalizer - BD exhaust brake - Auto-loc - Astroflex autostart -Bill K. T/C and V/B in tranmission -Prime-Loc removed and hanging in garage-Alaska
 
Cycle the key on 3 times and you will get a code or codes in the odometer read out. Post the #'s and some one with a manual can decode them in to what the problem is.
Are you sure the boost module is pluged in and tight. It would not be the first eletronic device to succumb to infant mortality.
 
Tried the key click no codes in window. Also checked plug ins, Good to go. Whats next?

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99-24V-2500-Laramie-SLT-A/T-LSD-355
All Options except cab lights and carpet-Rino- Prime-Loc-Alcoa wheels-Lund cold front-Factory Tows-DSG Electronic Fast Idle-Mag-Hytec transmission Pan+Rear Diff. Cover -Tekonsha Voyager- VA CPC -Rancho 9000-5000 steering stabalizer - BD exhaust brake - Auto-loc - Astroflex autostart -Bill K. T/C and V/B in tranmission -Prime-Loc removed and hanging in garage-Alaska
 
My 99 doesn't let me access the codes this way either--seems some do & some don't- it depends when they were built---take off both negative battery cables for a minute or so and put back on and see if that clears the code--keep an eye on things so next time it goes off you can narrow down what's causing it---chris
 
Disconnecting overnight did not clear the Check Engine light. I guess I need to remove the PS boost module as that is when the problem began. Anybody have any clues or have this happen when installing a boost module? Thanks
 
I had a very similar problem with my PS boost module. It was fine for about 3-4 months and then all of a sudden it tripped the engine light and sent it into limp home mode. Once I took the module off it quit going into limp mode, however I had to take it to the dealer to get them to turn of the check engine light. There may be another way to get the light out. Call Gordon at Practical Solutions and tell him what the problem is. I sent him back the module and he promptly sent me another one. Good service! I know about 10 guys running the module on their trucks with no problems. I just happened to be the lucky one of the bunch. Hope you get it straightend out. Jason.

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'99 3500HD flatbed, 5 spd 4:10 Posi, homebuilt underbody toolboxes & cowcatcher, 4" down w/straight stack(speak-up! I can't hear you!), K&N filter, what silencer ring? mudgrips, banks pyro & boost guage, sw fuel guage, 50% 3 wire BlueBox(HOLYSMOKE), Psycotty air, PS boost module w/ elbow, thinking about 1/2" fuel lines(real hard)
Jason
 
once the problem is fixed the code can be cleared by pulling the negative(-) battery cable for at least ten seconds, I usually leave it off for five minutes. you dont have to pay a dealer to do this, or take it there.

I believe it takes ten key on, engine running,key off, conditions to clear the permanent memory (codes) otherwise.

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Todd,
2001 Q-cab SB 4x4 5spd 3. 55's, A pillar Boost/EGT,Jardines 4" turboback kit,custom built aluminum airbox W/K&N-RE0860 through the cowl, and more to come...
 
Does it matter which battery you disconnect the neg. cable from? Or, do you do both?

Thanks.

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White 2001. 5 2500 ST, SWB, 4X4,QC, AUTO, 4. 10's, LSD, 285/75/16 On Weld Outbacks, PIAA 510's, Line-x, Tinted glass, Redline 85+, Blow-by-bye, RE-0880 & 25-0880,muffler fell off.
 
to pull codes:
turn key to on,off,on,off,and finally on. (turn it forward as to start it not backwards) the MIL should begin to flash, count the flashes and pauses this should come up to be a number. Example: flash,short pause,flash,flash,flash,flash. long pause =14
if you miss it it will cycle through the codes three times.

I would take out the VA, reset the ecm by removing the neg(-) battery cable for five minutes. then start and run it to temp go from park to neutral if its auto then if you still have a code pull the codes again to see what it is. post them here and i will tell you what they are. you probably have a loose connection or a weak one. use some dielectric grease in the connectors.

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Todd,
2001 Q-cab SB 4x4 5spd 3. 55's, A pillar Boost/EGT,Jardines 4" turboback kit,custom built aluminum airbox W/K&N-RE0860 through the cowl, and more to come...
 
I can get no engine codes with the key. I removed the boost module and elbow. the VA is still on. Disconnected both negative battery cables for about 5 minutes,reconnected them still had check engine code. I started truck about 10 times(sorry I didn,t count them I was kind of frustrated) and BINGO check engine light is gone. What do you think a bad boost module? Thanks for everybodys help,but with you guys(TDR) I wouldn,t even be messing with the boost on a $35,000 truck so I guess its a 2 way street right? LOL Thanks
 
You can't just assume the boost module is bad. You have to find out what set the check the 'check engine' light. If you're worried about the dealer looking at the ECM then take your truck by some independent repair shop that has an OBDII scan tool. They may not have a shop manual for the Cummins so write down the trouble code and post it here.

I agree with one of the posts above... put dielectric grease in all your connections.

-Mike
 
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