Here I am

oil, black gold, texas t

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What the hell is up with diesel prices?

canola in the tank

Okay, what type of should I use? In my dearly departed 98 24v 3/4 ton auto I ran Rotella until 106,000 when the motor went kaput. I just bought a 2001 3/4 ton high output 6 speed, whigh run great and feels like it could pull a house down. Anyway Cummins recommends that you not run synthetic until 10,000 miles. I only have about 1,200. Any suggestions. Oh ya, my oil filters are k&N.















2001 3/4 ton high output cummins speed, isspro gauges on the a pillar, sprayed bedliner, toolbox and bumpers, K&N air filter, R&K toolbox and headache rack, ranch hand bumpers.
 
oil, black gold, Texas

Hey, JAlexander, don't leave us hanging. . what caused your engine to die with only a third of its life expectancy used up?

I have used Rotella and have a couple gallons left. I now have Delo 400 in there. Amsoil is next, I suspect, as the engine is well broken in by now (45K). :D
 
Originally posted by JAlexander

Okay, what type of should I use? In my dearly departed 98 24v 3/4 ton auto I ran Rotella until 106,000 when the motor went kaput. I just bought a 2001 3/4 ton high output 6 speed, whigh run great and feels like it could pull a house down. Anyway Cummins recommends that you not run synthetic until 10,000 miles. I only have about 1,200. Any suggestions. Oh ya, my oil filters are k&N.



I've heard lots of the guys runniung Rotella on the list.

I'm using Castrol...



And yes they say for ATLEAST 15K, don't use synthetic. It's in my owners manual as well.

You could have a problem with proper break in and seating of the rings. The dino based oil lets the parts wear off any very minor high spots that are left over. The synthetic is sooo good that it doesn't allow this to happen. It's not just our CTD, but any engine. I've read this in a few trade magazines as well.



I too am wondering what happened to your 98... was it a gasser?



Bob
 
OIL

Rotella is good, so is delo 400, I switched from rotella to the delo because I didnt like the oil smell you get after an oil change that lasted for a few hundred miles with the rotella oil.
 
I would say Delo 400, but Rotella is real good as well. I just elected not to use Rotella, because it stinks more then Delo after you oil change or atleast that what I read here on the board.
 
Are you running Rotella or Rotella_T? Rotella_T is a better oil for our diesels. Also they have a Rotella syn- blend that I use in the winter.
 
oil,black gold,texas t

I am currently running whatever it came from the factory with. I had planned to run the Rotella T in it, but new of a few td's running the delo and mobil delvac. To answer the question on my 98 I was told that I had run it to hot while towing and that a gasket blew causing the oil to go out the blow by, which it did do. Not being a mechanic I took their word for it. To make a long story short I traded it back to the dealership where I bought it and got the 2001. Yes, I did lose big but, don't like to discuss that. Also, I am very pleased with the 2001.
 
The brand of oil you use isn't as important as picking one brand and sticking with it. Delo 400 has been reformulated in the past year and as is close as you can come to synthetic without paying the high price.
 
Oh... GTX. .



Na... . only kidding... I started running GTX in my Yota,,, beat the living heck out of that 4 banger. . 7. 5K redline. I had bought the truck used, 40K miles. . I openned up the engine to adjust the valves and there was sludge and stuff, after running the Castrol for year, opened the valve cover up for another valve adjustment and it looked brand new. . When I overheated the engine, lost the clutch fan running off road, cracked the head (short version of the story), I got a new 15Kmile 22R cheap to drop in. We toke the old 20R apart... it was like it was spank'n new at 150K +...

We were impressed.



There was a guy on the DIRT list that bombed the heck out of his CTD Dodge and ran nothing but Castrol RX. . I figured if it was his oil of choice and it did well by me while beating the heck out of the Yota... I'll run it in my CTD. BTW I've run nothing put Castrol for he last 20 years. Not much I can prove, other than that 20R we took apart. Oh ya and a 302 I drove for a year on it's last leg (real high mileage van that I was gonna replace the engine on. . just kept putting it off, it had knocks from the day I bought it) and drove it off the highway, without oil, then on and off the flat bed at the shop while it was throwing a rod around the block, in and out of the hole in the block... . the crank and lower bearings were fine.



http://www.castrolusa.com/products/productpage.asp?product_category=1&product_id=2



It made just for the the diesels. .

"Approved against the of Mack EO-M specification and meets the performance requirements of Cummins CES 2007 Specification. Recommended for Mack, Cummins, Caterpillar, Navistar and Detroit Diesel 4 stroke engines where API CH-4 is required"



It doesn't smell after the oil changes... ...



It's a bit hard to find, and not cheap. 1. 70/quart. Once in a great while I can find the gallon jug of it at a slight savings.



Bob
 
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Deere?

I guess I'm another odd one, I used to use Delo 400, but now use John Deere Plus-50 diesel oil. It meets or exceeds everyone's specs (Mack, Cummins, Cat, etc. ), doesn't smell after oil changes, etc.



I mostly changed 'cause the Deere dealer will sell it cheaper than the Chevron dealer, and you get to keep the drum (chevron wants $20 or a return drum). Oh yeah, I buy it in 55 gal drums, those enpty drums come in handy for all sorts of things. I use the same oil in the trucks as well as tractors. I figure that Deere knows a thing or two about long lasting diesel engines, and probably knows what oil/additives are good too. Oil analysis seems to be proving this as well...



-cj
 
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