Oil bypass in the age of Cj vs CI oil. Is it worth it.

[brillmtb]

I am thinking of going to a bypass system by amsoil," AMSOIL Ea By-Pass Filter ", then using amsoil even though it is much more than the delo I have been running and changing at extended intervals. I have had very good luck with amsoil (oil vs driving habits remain to be known) as I just replaced the governer solenoid at 175000 when some are telling me they go out as early as 50k. I attributed this to the lack of heat in my transmission as I seldom see temps above 175 degrees with my amsoil filled transmission and I see posts on this site indicating that this would be lower than expected especially pulling my artic fox 5th wheel (9000lbs) uphill.

what are your thoughts, just go with the delo every 3-5K as I have been although it is the CJ oil I think now and dosent my 03 like the CI better or go with the bypass and longer intervals?


thanks

 

[amsoilman]

I have the bypass on my 2010 Dodge/Cummins and use the CJ-4 15W-40 Premium Synthetic oil. I have had good OA reports so far, and have more than 27,000 on the oil.

 

[AH64ID]

If your going to get a bypass you should also get some CI-4+ oil from Amsoil as well.

I have the bypass on my 2010 Dodge/Cummins and use the CJ-4 15W-40 Premium Synthetic oil. I have had good OA reports so far, and have more than 27,000 on the oil.

Are you deleted?

 

[Fiver]

For what it's worth, I don't employ a bypass or otherwise "custom" oil filter setup and have always, since 11k miles, run Mobil 1 5-30 CI-4 synthetic. Still have some of that and Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme synthetic stockpiled. Plan to go the Amsoil CI-4 when that is gone. Had an oil mist from my rear valve cover gasket so had the valves adjusted while the covers were off, mechanic said he'd never seen a cleaner valve assembly, regardless of age. BUT---I have always changed the oil at approximately 5k intervals. The bypass system may very well provide the same result with longer interval oil changes, guess it's a matter of long term cost. I suspect one would have pretty much the same result with CJ-4 at 5k intervals.

 

[Tuesdak]

Are you going to run enough miles to make it worth it? Doing UOA to know when to change the oil? Is soot or something that can be 'filtered' the limiting factor on oil life for your engine? Only UOA can tell you this - what is the limiting factor making you change the oil and would more filtration extend the drain interval?

The bypass kit is a lot of coin. Biased on your suggested 3-5K oil change miles vs. the book you would not get the value of your oil. Unless you are changing it once a year with only 5K? Lots of miles or once a year is on AMSOIL's site as a limiting factor... Other than CA engines the book gives you 7500 severe (towing) miles or 15,000 regular miles out of the oil. A UOA on the newer oil CJ-4 in your 2003 can verify how it is doing. What are you running for the extended intervals you mentioned above? (You were not clear on what interval you are running now or the goal you want.)

My experience with the limits of (there are limits to engine oil that when reached result in viscosity change to the extreme of piston scuffing) CJ-4 non-synthetic oil in a 2008 Duramax took it to the oil change light of nearly 10,000 miles. Towing hot and heavy the ECT was 'normal' at 240 pulling hills due to the Allison liking to lug the engine to death under high loads. The oil was pretty close to done as far as viscosity and TBN. We had one sample pretty thin due to biodiesel contamination from the DPF cleaning. A synthetic oil would have helped (at a higher cost to our bottom line) as we did get 'low oil pressure alarms' from the combo of 121 degree heat, towing, B99 contamination, idle time, and the momentary pressure drop of shifting into gear. We even had a huge aftermarket 2 quart oil cooler to help out. (We were exceeding the limits of 250 degree sustained oil cooler hose.) They have improved/changed the CJ-4 oil available since I ran it that hard in 2008/09.

Although your 2003 doesn't have the fuel dilution issue or the DPF/EGR or even the cat/DPF keeping heat in the engine... The above example is one where the bypass filter would not have helped extend the oil drain interval. Engine warranty was also a factor having to change it at the 10K 'oil change light'. Otherwise synthetic could have pushed the interval longer perhaps at an overall higher cost per mile.

 

[RDHamill]

From strickely a dollars and cents point of view the by pass filter can only be viable if you're able to go with an extended oil drain program. From a filtration stand point, it makes sense for every engine to have the best filter. It's a shame that the engines with the high dirt load from an EGR are less likely to get a by pass filter as the fuel dilution issue makes an owner less likely to spend the money when extended drains can't happen.
Those that engines without a DPF might be best off using a CI+4 oil instead of the CJ oil made for the DPF equipped engines.

I have a by pass filter on my '08, I find that changing the filter every 4th oil change works well. The hoses are still hot ( therefore oil is flowing) and the cost is not a big concern. is there is a long term advantage??? well the debate continues.

 

[jhenderson]

I tried an Amsoil by pass system and synthetic oil with extended drain but it didn't work for me. Soot loading thickened the oil beyond safe levels before any monetary gain was attained. Remember, by pass systems can't remove soot.

 

[AH64ID]

Remember, by pass systems can't remove soot.

Actually they do, just that modern oils are making it harder to remove soot. Your soot would have been higher without a bypass, the 04.5-07 engine puts a lot of soot into the oil. How dodge/cummins can claim a 15K OCI for schedule A is beyond me.

 

[amsoilman]

I tried an Amsoil by pass system and synthetic oil with extended drain but it didn't work for me. Soot loading thickened the oil beyond safe levels before any monetary gain was attained. Remember, by pass systems can't remove soot.

The AMSOIL EaBP 100 has a Weighted Average Efficiency of 39 Percent SOOT removal as per ISO 23556. My 03 Dodge (sold to Grandson)had 0.8 ppm SOOT with 56000 miles on oil. Viscosity was 15.1 cSt@100c. Still within limits of a 40 grade oil. How many miles did you go on an EXTENDED basis?

 

[jhenderson]

Your 03 was a much different animal than my 04.5. If memory serves me, a little less than 25,000 on that change.

 

[amsoilman]

Your 03 was a much different animal than my 04.5. If memory serves me, a little less than 25,000 on that change.

TRUE.....I did have bigger injectors, and an "EDGE JUICE" on it as well. Truck now has over 100, 000, but Grandson is still running the same stuff as I did. SO did you do UOA on your truck, and if so how often?

 

[jhenderson]

Tell me you don't honestly believe bigger injectors soot the oil the way a 3rd injection event do. Blackstone emphatically stated the oil was severely soot thickened and needed to be changed immediately. At that point the $ no longer made sense, and I returned to 5,000 mile changes with Delo or Delvac. 345,000 later, all is well.

 

[AH64ID]

I don't think the 3rd event is to blame nearly as much as the piston design, but any quality injector won't add to the soot with good tuning (no, I don't think edge is good) you can have less soot with bigger injectors.

 

[amsoilman]

tell me you don't honestly believe bigger injectors soot the oil the way a 3rd injection event do. Blackstone emphatically stated the oil was severely soot thickened and needed to be changed immediately. At that point the $ no longer made sense, and i returned to 5,000 mile changes with delo or delvac. 345,000 later, all is well.

cool....................