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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oil change questions

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Adjusting valves

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This is the first time I'll need to change the oil in my '01. Are there any special tools required? Anything I should have other than new oil and a filter? I'd rather not find out the hard way after I drain all the oil out and can't get back to the store :(
 
A strap filter wrench works well. These use a 1/2 socket drive, you get the web strap around the filter and move it to the top area, just below the flange, and then wind up the strap to turn the filter. Looking down from the top you are going to turn it clockwise to remove it. I remove the turbo inlet hose to change the oil filter.



Use the Fleetguard LF3894 Stratapore oil filter, and next time plan ahead and have a Geno's garage HD drain plug to put back in the pan. Some people prefill the filter with a quart of oil. Do not get any dirt or the little tin seal from the oil bootle in it. Do not over tighten the stock drain plug. You will break the flange off of it. Might want to look at it. If gasket flange is about 1/16 inch thick it is the stock one. Geno's flange is about 3/16's of an inch. Delo 400 15/40 is a good oil. The drain plug is designed to let the oil come out with just loosening it. After most of the oil is out, then remove it and clean it up.



Do not let a FRAM oil filter within a 100 miles of your Cummins. Make sure you have a container that will hold the 10 or 11 quarts of oil that is going to be coming out and that you can get the container out from under the truck when it is full of oil. Seeing as your truck is 2 wheel drive, this could be a real issue. You Might want to drive up on some blocks. Also make sure the truck is warmed up before you drop the oil.



Snoking
 
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Get yourself a pair of chanel-lock style oil filter pliers. Mine are snap-on but others make them as well. Use them at the very top of the filter at the seam and they work great. It is way easier than a strap wrench. If you have the stock drain plug make sure the 3/8" Square hole is clean and the ratchet goes in all the way. I had to weld a nut on a friends to get it out. When you reinstall the drain plug make sure the gasket is still on it. Jake
 
I used to use the fleetguard filters on my '92. I recently moved to Texas so now I don't know where to get them. Perhaps I should hold off for several days and just order some stuff from Geno's. I wasn't aware of the drain plug thing, thanks. Removing the trubo inlet hose is a good idea too.
 
I agree with Jake, I use the channel lock pliers as well. One thing I do when I put the new filter on is tighten it by hand then use an oil filter wrench to get another half turn or so. I found out the hard way that you have to tighten it a little more than gasser. The filter can and will vibrate loose.
 
Jdonoghue said:
I used to use the fleetguard filters on my '92. I recently moved to Texas so now I don't know where to get them. Perhaps I should hold off for several days and just order some stuff from Geno's. I wasn't aware of the drain plug thing, thanks. Removing the trubo inlet hose is a good idea too.



You should be able to get the Fleetguard filter at a local Cummins dealer. I have Coummins NW UPS filters directly to my home. However last time I orderred, they charged me a little more than Geno's and I have an discount account with Cummins. Two in the boat and second Dodge. So Geno's filter prices are very good. You could wait like you said and order the drain plug and filter first. Delo or other good 15/40 is not a big issue.



SNOKING
 
SHobbs said:
I agree with Jake, I use the channel lock pliers as well. One thing I do when I put the new filter on is tighten it by hand then use an oil filter wrench to get another half turn or so. I found out the hard way that you have to tighten it a little more than gasser. The filter can and will vibrate loose.



I guess DC/Cummins worried about them coming loose also. If you do not know what I am talking about, then you did not do your own first filter change when the truck was new!!!!!!!



SNOKING (I think there still is a size 12 1/2 foot print on my firewall and that third arm I had to grow really does not get in the way anymore. )
 
one trick, use a zip lock bag over the filter after u get it loose, and put the filter in the bag once u get it off the base and lift the bag out. no mess!!
 
Check the yellow pages for a big rig repair shop in your area. Most of them carry Fleetguard. I pay just over $7 for the LF3894's.



Lots of TDR wrap a gallon baggie around the filter when removing to catch any spill that will occur when tilting it to remove.



I put a small mark on the filter housing with a permanent marker. Once I get the filter on as snug as I want it, I put another mark on the filter that lines up with the one on the housing so that I can visually see if it ever moves. It's never happened, but this is just part of my routine that only takes a few seconds, and keeps me focused :rolleyes:
 
Jdonoghue said:
I used to use the fleetguard filters on my '92. I recently moved to Texas so now I don't know where to get them. Perhaps I should hold off for several days and just order some stuff from Geno's. I wasn't aware of the drain plug thing, thanks. Removing the trubo inlet hose is a good idea too.



J, you can get them at the Cummins place over near 610 and 10 on the east side of town, or you can simply order them through Geno's.



HTH.



Duane
 
You better pre-fill the filter, or the turbocharger will be starved until the pump fills up the filter, if you look at most diesels the filters are straight up and down, good practice to pre-fill. Also you should torque the drain plug, it's 35 ft lbs I think. And like the above post, keep the Fram's at least a 100 miles away, or give then to the Ford guys :D

Tom
 
If you do order from Geno's, consider one of the quick drain plug replacements. One way to drain the oil without getting it all over like the stock plug.
 
Snow King said:
I guess DC/Cummins worried about them coming loose also. If you do not know what I am talking about, then you did not do your own first filter change when the truck was new!!!!!!!



SNOKING (I think there still is a size 12 1/2 foot print on my firewall and that third arm I had to grow really does not get in the way anymore. )



I still remember that change. I wondered if D/C used JB Weld on the oil filter gasket. It took a long screwdriver and a hammer to get that first filter off :--)

-Rich
 
I respectfully disagree with Tom - don't put a torque wrench on the drain plug. That thing will get tighter as you drive. I torqued mine to spec the first time - never again! I thought the pan was going to tear around the plug before the plug would break loose. Now I just snug it when I tighten it - and it still ends up being way tighter than I left it when I go to loosen it the next time.



Dave
 
I follow instructions on the fleetguard filter as far as installing it, prefill, lube the gasket, spin on the filter until it makes contact with housing, it will stop turning, mark the housing and filter with pen, turn filter 3/4 of a turn after it stopped. Never had a filter come loose on any vehicle using this method and they come off easy.



Dave
 
All good info here. One more thing, use a 3/8-1/2 adapter so you can use the heavier 1/2" drive handles. The 3/8" handle has too much flex and like others have said that drain plug is like it is welded on :) .



"NICK"
 
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