Oil Change (Your Own?)

[yycguy]

After paying my dealer almost 400 dollars to change the oil (synthetic) and fuel filter, I am thinking about doing my own from now on. So how do you make it easy to drop 10+ liters of oil in your drive way?



Also what about Royal synthetic oil good/bad ? comments please

yycguy :-{}

 

[boonsur]

It's really easy to do yourself (both the oil & fuel filter).



Buy your filters from Geno's. They're as cheap as you'll find, and a TDR affiliate. I'd recommend the Stratopore oil filter. For the extra buck, or so, you get better flow/filtration. Also buy the socket they sell for taking off the oil filter. Then you just use a 3/8 socket drive wrench w/length extensions, etc.



To collect the oil when you drain, buy a large capacity catch pan with the top on it. Then you can just bring it to the nearest quick-change to dispose.



You shouldn't use synthetic oil until your engine is properly seated (Cummins recommendation), which can happen anywhere between 10 & 20K miles, depending on how much you tow. Either Rotella or Delo are preferred (look for the diesel rating), and readilly available at auto-parts stores, WalMart, etc.



As far as procedures, do a search on this forum. There's a lot of good tips/advise. Doing it yourself, the oil change should cost about $8. 00 for the filter, and ~$25. 00 for the oil. Labor is free. Fuel filter should only cost ~$15. 00 or so.



Be sure to keep good records (receipts) to document you schedule, in case the dealer ever gets funny about warranty. (BTW, if they threaten to void you warranty if you do your own maintenence, then find another)!

 

[Rosco]

$400 dollars . You can do your own oil WAY cheaper than that. Just get a big enough drain pan for the oil and the rest is a piece of cake. With both filters (oil&fuel) 10 quarts of synthetic and a six pack of beer you should still be under $100 U. S. dollars.



Also, I would certainly look for a new dealer since this one really loved up to that st#%^$* name.

 

[SSage]

I've needed a strap type oil filter wrench to remove the filter the last two changes. I recommend the seat belt type. Walmart sells a 15 quart sealed oil pan. I buy filters at Genos.

 

[SSage]

Originally posted by Rosco

$400 dollars . You can do your own oil WAY cheaper than that. Just get a big enough drain pan for the oil and the rest is a piece of cake. With both filters (oil&fuel) 10 quarts of synthetic and a six pack of beer you should still be under $100 U. S. dollars.



Also, I would certainly look for a new dealer since this one really loved up to that st#%^$* name.

Book says 11 quarts, my dip stick needs 12 quarts and I fill the new filter letting it fully absorb the oil and then topping off. With three gallons mine shows in the bottom of the "safe" area. Is this normal?

 

[boonsur]

I use 12 quarts, also. Dipstick shows lower-to middle of the safe zone as well. Never concerned me.

 

[bpenrod]

Mine has always taken 12 quarts counting what I put in the filter. That brings it near the top of the safe mark.

 

[Jengle]

The full 12qts brings mine right to the top of the safe level. I also recommend the strap wrench. And get both from Genos, wrench and filter kit. I plan on replacing my stock air filter, so I just got the kit from Genos that deletes the air filter. Here come the bombs.

 

[boonsur]

How/why are you guys using the strap wrench? The first filter removal may require it, as they come super-tight from the factory. However, you should never re-tighten them that much. You could strip the aluminum threads and, it simply doesn't need to be that tight.



I've found the easiest way to remove the filter is from underneath the truck, where the socket style is the best way to go. Are you guys doing it from the top? It doesn't seem like there's enough room to get the filter out that way.

 

[NDanecker]

Originally posted by yycguy

After paying my dealer almost 400 dollars to change the oil (synthetic) and fuel filter, I am thinking about doing my own from now on.

ARE YOU KIDDING ME?



I haven't changed my oil yet and was considering letting the dealer do it for the first time. After hearing what they charge... no way!!!!!!!!!!



I'm doing it myself!

 

[Jengle]

Mine seem to tighten up over time. The first one was a bear to get off and I tried other filter tools, but the strap wrench was the only one to budge it.



I drop mine from below. Some of the guys use a large ziploc bag and let the filter fall into that, while removing it from the top. I saw them do that on several trucks, and never spilled a drop. I have dumped some on my arm, doing it from below, though. Easy to tip it a little, and it's filled to the top, when you take it out. I may try the bag it and tag it thing, next oil change.

 

[SSage]

Originally posted by Jengle

Mine seem to tighten up over time. The first one was a bear to get off and I tried other filter tools, but the strap wrench was the only one to budge it.



I drop mine from below. Some of the guys use a large ziploc bag and let the filter fall into that, while removing it from the top. I saw them do that on several trucks, and never spilled a drop. I have dumped some on my arm, doing it from below, though. Easy to tip it a little, and it's filled to the top, when you take it out. I may try the bag it and tag it thing, next oil change.

Same here, the filter tightens over time. I just snug mine a half turn. The Fleet Guard filter says 3/4 turn.

 

[RobertBolinger]

12 quarts here too. I used the a Hardwick socket wrench, but Genos/WalMart sells a plastic socket wrench that probably works well. I can't imagine having to have to use a strap type unless you have the older style filter without the ribs.



Definitely get a good filter. Avoid WalMart because the only filter they have that will fit is Fram I got the Stratapore from Genos, but I like not having to go all over tarnatuion to find something. You can but the Fleetgards locally at Cummins or maybe Freightliner shops, etc. WalMart is OK for oil, though. Make sure the oil is rated CI.



I got a 2'x3' metal pan to go under my 15 quart collection pan to contain spills. They sell those at AutoZone.



I have heard of people drilling a hole in the bottom on the oil filter to drain it out first. I don't think that is necessary.



I read an article about changing oil on a PSD 7. 3 and that guy hooked a shop vac to the oil filler to keep the oil in the pan until he had the plug completely off. Seems like a lot of trouble.



I did get one of the EZ Drain tube kits from Genos.

 

[XcumminsX]

WTFFFFFFFFF... . I PAY 29. 99 FOR 12 QUARTS



Thats just as bad as 400 dollars for the dealer to do my cab lights



Nick

 

[BerylPugh]

oil change

get one of the graphite oil filter sockets and an 18" ext 3/8 ratchet for the filter. before you remove it punch a hole in the bottom of the filter to let it drain and you won't spill any.

 

[100 Proof]

Originally posted by yycguy

After paying my dealer almost 400 dollars to change the oil (synthetic) and fuel filter, I am thinking about doing my own from now on.

My dealer does my oil, filter, and lube for $28. Dino oil though. For that price, he can keep on doing it too!



100 Proof

 

[HOCummins04]

On my 2001, which I bought used, the oil drain plug was fluted, so that when you loosened it up a few turns the oil drained without removing the plug. I have learned that is not a factory deal. Does anyone know where I can get one of these? Tried dealer so far, and no joy.



I am aware of the kits Geno's has, but like the fluted idea better. Plug still used a 3/8 drive. Looked stock, but made a lot less mess draining. I just use a 5 gallon bucket that is a little shorter than usual.



I always fill the filter with fresh oil and rub some around on the rubber gasket and tighten it up real good. Definitely do not want to worry about filter coming loose. I used to just tighten 1/2 turn past gasket contact with oil on the gasket, but my dad had a filter be just finger loose doing that - so I make sure they are TIGHT.

 

[SSage]

Originally posted by HOCummins04

On my 2001, which I bought used, the oil drain plug was fluted, so that when you loosened it up a few turns the oil drained without removing the plug. I have learned that is not a factory deal. Does anyone know where I can get one of these? Tried dealer so far, and no joy.



I am aware of the kits Geno's has, but like the fluted idea better. Plug still used a 3/8 drive. Looked stock, but made a lot less mess draining. I just use a 5 gallon bucket that is a little shorter than usual.



I always fill the filter with fresh oil and rub some around on the rubber gasket and tighten it up real good. Definitely do not want to worry about filter coming loose. I used to just tighten 1/2 turn past gasket contact with oil on the gasket, but my dad had a filter be just finger loose doing that - so I make sure they are TIGHT.

My strap wrench crushes the filter as I take it off, a half turn or so is plenty tight! The 03 is the only truck that tightens up on me. All my others are done by hand including my tractors. Kinda odd.

 

[CIverson]

Incase anyone want's an alternative to dropping the filter from below. I just take off the intake tube (from turbo to air box) and I can get right at it. I place one hand below the filter and unscrew w/ the other and it comes right out. I haven't spilt a drop.



It may seem like too much work to take off the tube, but it's only 2 band clamps and I've had enough hot oil burn my arms in the past, (used to work in a quick lube).

 

[Shooter]

I have an metal ( KD ) filter socket. Break the filter loose. Then put the 1 gal baggie on the filter. You can unscrew the filter and if any spills it is contained in the ziplock.



I use the ez drain from Genos and drain into a short round 5 gal plastic bucket, Kitty litter type.



The 2nd gens came with oem fluted drain plugs. OK , but still got oil down the armpit.

After a few changes got the ez. No more oil in the armpit. Oo.



Got the ez for the 03 a week after it was ordered.