Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Oil drain bolt

[PGaither]

On my 96 Ram 2500 w/ the Cummins Turbo Diesel, I changed the oil on day , torqued the oil drain bolt to the specified 60 ft. pounds (that seems like alot!), and the oil drain bolt head broke off! The threads were (seemed) o. k, I bought a new oil drain bolt from Cummins, intstalled it (it went on and threaded fine), bough a new torque wrench and tourqued it again to 60 ft. pounds, and everything went fine, but it now leaks very slowly a couple of drops here and there. Why is it still leaking? Is the oil pan messed up? the threads looked fine? The new oil drain bolt came with a brass or copper washer, is that like a gasket? how can I stop the leak? even though it a small, slow leak it worries me... .



Phil:{

 

[bmoeller]

60# is too much. I think they revised it to 44# because of that problem.



I just use a 3/8 drive ratchet and hold it close to the ratchet head. Just tighten til snug. Never have had any problems with it loosening whatsoever.

 

[PGaither]

Thanks

Thanks for the reply, and advice about only torqueing it ti 44 ft. pounds, but what can I do about the slow drip/leak from the oil drain bolt?

 

[JohnE]

Copper probably. They are not good for repeated usage.



I think you have the same pan/plug as me.

I had the same problem and it was a simple cure. I got the laminated rubber/steel washer. Put the rubber side to the pan and snug the bolt as bmoeller stated.

 

[PGaither]

Thanks!

Thanks so much, where can I get the laminated ruber/steel washer for the oil drain bolt? From Cummins? Or from Dodge?

 

[JohnE]

I paid $2 at Cummins 3 years ago

 

[illflem]

You may have distorted the sealing surface on the pan when it was overtorqued. Some folks have been able to flatten it back out with a sanding block. Of course you will lose your oil, might want to wait till next change time.

Never used a torque wrench on mine, doubt if I'm appling more than 25 ft/lbs, no problem with 57 oil changes behind me with the same plug and washer.

 

[RJ2]

The dealer got me for 11$ on the rubber washer. (tampa)

 

[Dreher]

I also had the same problem on my '96, though it occurred while using the specified 44 ft/Lbs of torque.



Illflem is right, the sealing area of the pan distorted and I could not get a good seal even with a new plug and washer.



Another CTD owner gave me the solution - make a washer out of some type of sheet gasket material. I've been using cork for the last 3 years, mainly because it's easy to cut. Just use the factory washer as a template and cut one out. A sharpened piece of 3/4" copper pipe makes an excellent punch for the center hole. Put this washer between the factory washer and the pan. I now torque to 25 ft/Lbs.



I've been doing this for about four years and I have no leakage at all.



Bob

 

[PGaither]

Thanks Bob

Thanks Bob, I believe you guys are right about the pan distorting. I'll make the cork gasket at the next oil change.



PhilOo.

 

[Matt42]

Replacement at Geno's

I bought the replacement from Geno's that has the 9/16 inch bolt head. It comes with what appears to be a hard plastic gasket. I've had no leaks, and I carry the OEM allen wrench plug as a spare.



As an experiment, I torqued the new plug to 40 ft-lb, which is the recommended amount. At the next change, it took about 60+ ft-lb to break it loose. (The wrench pointer was a tad difficult to see anyway, and it went sproing when the bolt let loose. )