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Oil fill

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Probably overthinking it but here's the situation and the question.

Just installed an Amsoil EaP90 bypass filter on a 2018 2500. Shop put almost three quarts in to get the dipstick reading full (and I've read sparingly similar online) and I was on my way.

I checked the dipstick a few days later and it was reading well above SAFE, and onto the metal on the dipstick by a little bit. So over the course of the next few days I was checking the truck and siphoning out oil. I'd bet I've taken out a quart and a half, to two quarts.

Now, after letting it sit overnight, the dipstick reads in the SAFE zone, roughly the middle. I called Amsoil and they told me that filter will hold a quart of oil (maybe a 1/4 more) and looking at the lines, I am not going to be needing much more than that to keep the system full. But I'm not sure how exactly this works once the engine is running, as the return line will be full of fluid causing more oil to be needed to complete the circuit, than the dipstick would indicate after the oil drains back over night. I suppose in terms of three gallon capacity this small amount of misdirected oil is negligible.

So my question is how are these Cummins engines designed and if there was an residual issues that two quarts over full would create? I've read about the CCV getting saturated, but haven't really noticed the truck acting differently. With fall here I'll be doing a complete oil change shortly, and will go with 3 gallons +1 quart to start.
 
Easy said, the SAFE zone means exactly that - everything in between is okay and safe.
There is no need and no benefit to level it to the upper mark.

And the oil pickup tube is anyway at the bottom of the pan, even with just ONE gallon of oil that engine doesn't starve on oil, it just would go to hot in to short of time.

You wouldn't believe what we see in commercial vehicles and equipment that comes into the workshop to be serviced, some even run on grease from neglected oil change.:D:D

Engines are pretty hard to kill most of the time.:cool:
 
You should be fine with only being 2 quarts over for such a short time period. I'm willing to bet the shop wasn't letting the block drain for 30 minutes to check the level.

EaBP 90 = +1 qt
EaBP 100 = +1.5 qts
EaBP 110 = +2 qts
 
Thanks guys, I DID notice while underneath the truck, the front of the engine next to the harmonic balancer had some "seep" on a few bolts, not enough to drip in the driveway but interesting to note. I'll keep an eye on it.
 
Thanks guys, I DID notice while underneath the truck, the front of the engine next to the harmonic balancer had some "seep" on a few bolts, not enough to drip in the driveway but interesting to note. I'll keep an eye on it.

My 2018 required the timing cover to be resealed under warranty a couple years back. Started like that and then became a very slow drip.
 
@A.R., I run a bypass system on mine as well. Did a relocation to under the passengers floor board with skid plate. I prefill my bypass then take my 3 gals and fill the full flow filter with rest in engine. Reads about 1/2 -3/4 in safe! No issues with overfill. Enjoy your Truck!
 
@A.R., I run a bypass system on mine as well. Did a relocation to under the passengers floor board with skid plate. I prefill my bypass then take my 3 gals and fill the full flow filter with rest in engine. Reads about 1/2 -3/4 in safe! No issues with overfill. Enjoy your Truck!

Just dumped the rest of the single quart, reads about the same. Thanks!

What is the opinion on going into the dealership with this hooked up when I bring up the leak on the timing cover...?
 
Is the stock oil filter in original position? If you just added extra filtration, they can't deny warranty for extra filtration. They'll try to deny but it's not a modification that would effect how the truck operates. If the bypass was leaking oil and then caused an issue, that's different. Main thing is to have the documentation of proper oil changes with time and mileage that is stated in owners manual. Every dealer is different and it would be best to ask about policy about modifications on the truck. I'm my own warranty station as there isn't any left on truck. Mine has been on going on 2 yrs this November. Main reasons that I put mine on was extra filtering along with extra capacity. I know that we don't need the extra filtration with the newer oils and the way engine is designed. Had the parts prior to getting the truck for another project. As it's been said before, my truck, my choice! Keep an eye on timing cover and time left on warranty if any left.
 
Just dumped the rest of the single quart, reads about the same. Thanks!

What is the opinion on going into the dealership with this hooked up when I bring up the leak on the timing cover...?

Legally... unless the bypass filter causes the timing cover leak, the dealership/RAM can not deny warranty coverage. When a company tries to claim warranty is void due to a "owner modification" that isn't causing the issue/problem, they are counting on the customer to not know/be ignorant of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. (Even those "warranty void if seal broken" stickers are technically not legal/binding in the US.)

Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act
"According to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, a vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty of your vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part was the cause of or contributed to the failure of the vehicle (15 U.S.C. 2302 (C)). This means that a vehicle’s warranty cannot be “voided;” the dealer can only deny a claim if the stock part failed due to damage or unreasonable use."
 
Like this???

Look on the concrete in front of my NICE free rental car.

5C3B57D1-2A26-4E99-B7B2-4F541FB06A45.jpeg
 
Sometimes attempting to repair a non issue turns out worse than leaving it alone.
I learned this lesson the hard way. YEARS ago I had a motorcycle that had just enough of an oil leak at the head gasket that you could see it after riding it all week. I just HAD to have it fixed. The tech that did the repair put the exhaust cam back in one tooth off. Bent a valve, trashed the valve seat and the piston. He was a good friend and had done the repair as a favor, so I couldn’t really hold him responsible. Cost me a bundle and that bike was never the same.
 
I have the Amsoil bypass and use the BP 90. The BP 90 stays full of oil and it contains about a quart. However, the full flow (I use Amsoil/donaldson/fleetguard) will allow the pressure to pull about half a quarter back into the oil pan. So, once it cools down, you likely have a half quart extra from the full flow filter that is not there when the full flow is under pressure while the engine is running. Mine goes above the safe zone as soot and fuel get into the sump, but I don't siphon oil out or change it unless it gets to the top of the plastic. Actually, I never siphon. But I do change when the oil gets too high for comfort.
 
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