Oil Filter Change

[S.Morris]

"Cummins engines have a tiny hole in the piston structure (haven't seen it, just read about it) that allows engine oil flow for piston cooling. A sliver of aluminum will plug the cooling hole. "



The oil nozzles are down below cylinders and spray oil onto the bottom of the piston top thereby taking some heat of combustion from piston into oil and reducing peak temp of piston. These are the nozzles that can get plugged, which then allows the piston to potentially overheat at high cyl temp. They also get broken during rebuilds or better yet not even installed in a reman.

 

[cojhl2]

Well I guess I can keep this discussion alive for a minit,, I never prefill and have never lost an engine, Car, truck, Caterpillar, and all.

How would one prefil a filter that attaches to the side of an engine like my ford 860?

I change oil this way: Drop the oil only when it is hot, put the plug back in after dripping stops, drop the old filter, install new one, put oil in engine, start engine at an idle, watch gauge.

Whole thing takes less than 15 minutes.

 

[RAton]

When I was a teen we would frequent car shows. One highlight was when they would drain all the oil out of an old Chevy and a Ford, park the car with the nose against something solid, then gun the engines seeing which brand would last longer. I remember lots of smoke and it taking 15 minutes plus before one of the engines would seize. I'm sure there is oil left on all the parts even with the oil drained. I wouldn't think the few seconds of no oil pressure would be that serious.
I think this debate is on the lines of never letting your fuel get below 1/4 tank so you don't suck the crude out of the bottom of the tank. Last I checked the straw always draws from the bottom of the tank.
BTW I never pre-fill.

 

[waltk]

There are numerous rationalizations for pre-filling the filter or not pre-filling. I choose to pre-fill my oil filter simply because the Factory Service Manual tells me to, and that plus the owner manual are *the bible* as far as I am concerned for vehicle information.

Walt K.

 

[Larry Sciblo]

I always drain my oil and let it sit overnight to get as much old oil out as possible. I wait until the next day to remove the filter. After sitting overnight the oil is below the top of the filter and when removing the filter there is no mess.

I also leave my hood up overnight so I or anyone else does not fire off the engine without any oil in it.

The 6. 7 leaves at least 1/2 quart in the pan because the drain plug bung does not have drain slots like the 5. 9 did. So I use a sucker device to remove as much of what is left in the bottom of the pan. Even with doing all this I only put in 11 3/4 quarts to be on the full mark.

I have always pre filled my filters on my vehicles and had zero problems with well over 1 million miles driven my self. I was always careful to remove the foil, never just punctured it I carefully removed it.

Could you tell me how to find"EASY! 2013 up oil change"
Thanks

 

[NIsaacs]

Could you tell me how to find"EASY! 2013 up oil change"
Thanks

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/easy-cummins-6-7-2013-and-up-oil-change.252227/

 

[Wiredawg]

Even though I'm very careful removing all the tin foil seal, I have no worries... they make a funnel that has a fine screen filter in it. I've had it for over 20 years. Cheers, Ron

 

[Larry Sciblo]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/easy-cummins-6-7-2013-and-up-oil-change.252227/

Thank you NIsaacs!

 

[Wiredawg]

Just curious, is something on the pickups with the 6.7l blocking just dropping the oil filter straight down. I have a band clamp wrench that easily slips around the filter. Both of my 6.7Ls were cab and chassis and I haven't seen how the pickups are configured. Ron

 

[Larry Sciblo]

Yes. There is a plastic molded pan that is somehow attached to the chassis. There is just not a lot of room to see 1) how its attached and 2) if it is removable and 3) even it is removed if you could drop the filter through the small opening. I just finished my first oil change on the truck. Attempting the removal by "Easy 2013 and up, oil change" by removing the air intake tube, but did not care for it. Went back to Youtube and followed the basic through the "wheel well method" and it was not as bad as I thought. Now I am going to attempt the fuel filter changes, just waiting for the parts to come in. Thank God for Youtube. =)

 

[Wiredawg]

yep, in 3400 more miles I'll be changing fuel filters, so I'll see how hard that's been engineered to do.

 

[Shiner]

If the filter is white, mark the date on it with a thick black Sharpie. Or mark it in some other manner possibly less obvious to the dealer. Then check it afterwards.

No need to try to hide the obvious. Make it obvious you are watching and they will change for sure.

 

[EDankievitch]

I use to pre fill my filters. Use to. We've seen a few failures of Gen engines lately and the only thing we were able to find was the cause was contamination getting into the oil system after the filter. Most recently a Cat 3306 wiped out a main bearing and crank. The engine had only 2300 hours on it after an overhaul. The CAT Service Tec found "stuff" in the clean side of the oil filter. If the engine had been running just before the oil change there will be enough oil still inn the bearings to allow it to run those few Sec until the filter fills and oil pressure comes up. The engine is run With NO load on the engine until it has oil pressure again.
I have pulled my oil filter off before starting my engine on my 2013 after it has sat over night. You would be surprised how much oil drains out of it. I've found it to be less than 1/4 full at times. So it's starting every morning with almost an empty filter.

That said We also had a rash of failed Injectors on our 645 EMD's I think I have traced the failures to one of our staff pre filling the secondary fuel filters. The fuel system on these engines is designed to self purge the air out of the secondary filters, switch the duplex valve over change the spin on filter and with the engine running slowly switch it over to the both position and watch the fuel pressure drop off then build back up and you are good to go. I have been changing the secondary fuel filters for years now never had an issue. We hire a new guy and with in two weeks we went through a dozen unit injectors on one ferry. They all were jammed. Ether the plunger or the rack was jammed.

 

[Wiredawg]

I'm with you on not prefilling the fuel filters. Fuel system is self priming. I've always prefilled oil filters and ensured foil removed.

The discussion about prefilling oil filters or not has been around a long time and whatever works for each of us is good.

BTW, even though I use a funnel with a fine screen in it, I've never found any foil in it... I meticulously remove it from the bottle.

Good discussion.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Wiredawg]

Just thought I would share a counterpoint to my position of prefilling the oil filter: my brother in law is a master diesel mechanic and he said he has never prefilled an oil filter on any engine. I was amazed.

So, I'm still committed to doing it my own way.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Mark31]

My John Deere 1975 4230 (6 cyl 404 cu in) and 1982 4440 (6 cyl 466 cu in) had side mount 1 1/2 qt filters that could not be pre-filled. Both are still running fine for their new owner. The 4230 had an add-on M+W turbo (boosted hp from 100 to 125) that had its own oil filter that had to be pre-filled. The 4440 had an inline Bosch pump that would instantly light up the engine, so I held the fuel cut off out for a few seconds after a change (and in cold weather) to let it start pumping oil. The 4230 (Roosamaster pump) loved a sniff of ether if you needed a heavy coat, so it didn't start so fast.! I fill my Cummins filter just 'cause I'm persnickity. Maybe it will help the engine live 750k miles instead of 740K!

 

[SnoKing]

Here is another tip for DIY oil changers. One of those big 1.5-1.75L booze bottles screws right into the valve cover oil fill. I cut the bottle bottom off and it makes a great funnel for poring fresh oil in the engine, staying in place all by it's self. SnoKing

 

[Mark31]

Here is another tip for DIY oil changers. One of those big 1.5-1.75L booze bottles screws right into the valve cover oil fill. I cut the bottle bottom off and it makes a great funnel for poring fresh oil in the engine, staying in place all by it's self. SnoKing]
Beware doin this in Commiefornia! Dey is liable to stick dat probe up de xaust pipe an sniff somethin and den send de Ram to the Slaughter House (junk yard)!

 

[nibroc]

what brand of booze was in those bottles?

 

[Wiredawg]

Another trick that works great is Prestone had offset funnels that also fit exactly in the oil fill AND have the rigidity to hold an inverted gallon of oil. That way, it drips a lot of the residue from the oil container. I've had them for more than 15 years. The new ones look like they may work as well, although haven't actually seen one in person.

Anyhoo, one more way for easy, no mess, oil changes AND get all the oil out of the container.

A friend of mine has the worst looking engine ever... he just pours the oil in, spills and dribbles oil everywhere and doesn't wipe it up. I hate to work on dirty engines. I wash my engines everytime I wash the vehicles. A CLEAN engine is a HAPPY engine.

Cheers, Ron