Oil filter relocation

[AlFischer]

I replaced the spring clamp on the little air hose with a worm drive clamp; easier to remove and reinstall.

I spent about 15 minutes and got the spring clamp loose, but the hose would no come off. Left it on and pushed the baffle out of the way. Had a spiral clamp ready but did not use. Put the &&$$$%$E# apring clamp (hate them) back and finished. Hose seemed stuck like it was old.

 

[gsbrockman]

I replaced the spring clamp on the little air hose with a worm drive clamp; easier to remove and reinstall.

That's really the only struggle I still have; I may heed your advice the next time (or when I install my block heater cord).

 

[Too Tall]

Just curious...

Where would you put the filter?

John L.

Most people put them on the passenger side inside frame rail behind the passenger compartment. There's 11" of clear space. Must use steel braided lines due to heat.

 

[JR]

http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=...%2Flike%2F250608762437%3Flpid%3D82&adtype=pla

Worth their weight in gold for those hard to reach clamps. I actually prefer using the spring clamps, they are quicker and easier to remove/install in those hard to reach areas if you have the right tools.

 

[AH64ID]

I thought the 2013 2500 had the new 50,000 psi frames.

Am I wrong about that?

The 2500 didn't get the 50K psi frame until 2014.

The 2013 2500's used up the last of the 35K psi frames, which ran from 03-12 on all HD models.

 

[Newsa]

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews...up-first-drive-reviewQUOTE=AH64ID;2409061]The 2500 didn't get the 50K psi frame until 2014.

The 2013 2500's used up the last of the 35K psi frames, which ran from 03-12 on all HD models.[/QUOTE]

I apologize for getting off topic, but you will notice that the 2013 ram 2500 did get the stronger frame according to Car & Driver.

The first page and a half discusses the 3500. The last half of the last page talks exclusively about the 2500.

What the 2500 did not get was the stiffer front suspension to prevent forward and front/sideward body roll.

 

[Newsa]

Compared with the 3500, the 2500 feels positively chuckable. In reality, it’s nearly as tough and just as unwieldy—for a truck—as its big brother, but unloaded and in single-rear-wheel configuration, it’s light enough to make a discernible difference. Even with a full payload of straw in the bed, it proved adept at wheeling along at freeway speeds. Just for grins we took a spin in a Hemi-powered 2500 (the Hemi is also available in the 3500 for 2013). It does the job, but with only 400 lb-ft of torque on tap, the gas V-8 lacks the grunt of the Cummins oil burner for serious haulers.Building a truck to handle extreme loads isn’t exactly rocket science, but to do it while retaining a modicum of drivability requires some finesse. Our time at the wheel was relatively free of jiggle and impact harshness, due in part to the updated frame made of high-strength steel, buttressed by eight cross members and fully boxed rear rails.*

 

[Too Tall]

Joe, I followed your procedure and removed the air intake tube. After finally getting it all off (I failed at first to remove the baffle due to not understanding completel). Had some trouble getting the strap wrench on. Finally succeded and got the filter off. Bagged it and only lost a little oil. Getting the nw filter started on the threads gave me grief. Slippery filter and oil on hands. Dropped it sveral times but Finally started and got it on and tightened.

Next change I am going to remove the wheel (securely place truck on stands) and I think I can sit under the wheel well and go in from the bottom. A lot of my problem comes from my age (74) and declining body strength. BUT I AIN"T GONNA LET THAT STOP ME!!

Now, what's your opinion on relocating the filter?

Al, I'm not far behind you (age) and can appreciate what you went thru. I had the same issues. Ha. Don't know if I lost a pint of blood but I looked like I'd been in a knife fight. Removing the wheel is one of the techniques the service manual recommends. They even say to remove the wheel well housing which I think I'm going to do that. That's what the quick change does. Remove the wheel well and you have better accessibility to the filter. It doesn't look like much of a chore to remove the screws from the wheel well with an electric screwdrive. Maybe 2 or 3 minutes. I may resort back to pulling the turbo/ air intake. I'm just afraid of a leak developing and sucking dirty air into the engine or getting some trash in the intake that could damage the turbo/ engine.

As to the filter relocation, I have read of some concerns over the long length of lines between the new and old location. I've read where some feel the oil pressure is delayed. For a bypass filter, this would not be an issue but for the main filter, I'm not sure. I think if the lines are big enough and high quality, it'll work. I'm going to try to master the oil change from the wheel well first.

 

[AH64ID]

Newsa,

That's a general press release. The suspension was not modified for the 2013 2500, something that would not be possible with a wider frame and front clip.

The 2013 ratings also do no support the stronger frame, but the 2014 do.

There is evidence from Ram supporting that the 2013 2500 uses the 03-12 frame.

 

[Too Tall]

Does the silencer have to come out to remove the intake hoses?

 

[gsbrockman]

Does the silencer have to come out to remove the intake hoses?

No........

 

[Too Tall]

No........

Thanks, I saw where you had pulled it out in your photos (which are very good) and was wondering if that was necessary or you were just inspecting it.

 

[AlFischer]

No........

You can remove the hoses but my hand wouldn't fit until I removed the silencer. Probably easier to remove the whole thine at once.

 

[jus2shy]

Once you break the intake loose the first time, it won't be nearly as difficult as it previously was. I did buy a remote spring clamp loosener since that CCV hose clamp is really the biggest pain of all in removing the intake. I pop off the top of the intake portion from the air filter box, loosen the band on the turbo, then I pop the spring clamp off the ccv hose and twist/pull the CCV hose off of the metal hose from the engine. Then I jiggle the intake up and down while pulling it forward at the same time. Pops the intake off everytime with ease. I always take a look at the intake to see if there's any dust ingression or how much oil mist is coming from the CCV. Before re-installing, I blow some compressed air through it and wipe off any oil mist coming from the CCV to minimize the buildup in front of the turbo. I double check all worm clamps and ensure they've all hit their "stop".

Since I let my engine drain for an hour, it's no problem taking the extra step to remove the intake and get at the filter that way. By the time you have it all taken off and a new filter installed, it's time to finally plug the bottom of the engine and put in some fresh oil.

 

[AlFischer]

I had the 'normal' amount of trouble with removing the spring clamp, but after finally getting it off I could not remove the hose. Stuck tight like it had been on ther for years. Next time I will get a hose pliers and risk damaging it. Figure it can always be replaced!

 

[seafish]

I like to use a hose hook for stubborn hoses...

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-and-15-3-4-quarter-inch-hook-set-95379.html

 

[Too Tall]

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[jus2shy]

I like to use a hose hook for stubborn hoses...

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-and-15-3-4-quarter-inch-hook-set-95379.html

That silicon hose is pretty delicate. I've punctured a small section of it using a hose hook, so I ended up shortening the hose a little to get rid of the punctured/cracked section so it doesn't spread. Luckily the hose on my intake was pretty darn long to begin with. I find that twisting the CCV hose clockwise and counter-clockwise a few times helps break it loose. Once I get some movement, then I usually can yard it off of the metal CCV pipe just fine. I usually wear rubberized gloves as well to get a better grip on it as well.

 

[AlFischer]

I like to use a hose hook for stubborn hoses...

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-and-15-3-4-quarter-inch-hook-set-95379.html

Never heard of taking a stubborn hose off with these. I will have one as soon as I get near HF! GOOD IDEA!

 

[seafish]

Never heard of taking a stubborn hose off with these. I will have one as soon as I get near HF! GOOD IDEA!

They work REALLY well for rubber hoses... guess that one need to be a little more careful using them on smaller silicone hoses likejus2shy says.