Oil Guard Return Position (PAN Vs Valve Cover

[ramtifosi]

I just replaced my Oil Guard return to oil pan with their updated return to the the filler cap, it looks like a better setup, as as I'am not fighting the the oil pan return pressures vs. returning thru the the fill cap. The old filters were sooted, very heavy, at 4,000 miles (oil pan return, maybe lack of pressure) just wondering. The new system is Valve cover (filler) return. I'll know in 4,000 miles. I'll let know then. (Oil Guard did not give a break on the what I would consider a correct (right) setup - shame on them) So be where my friends.

 

[TTubb]

I just replaced my Oil Guard return to oil pan with their updated return to the the filler cap, it looks like a better setup, as as I'am not fighting the the oil pan return pressures vs. returning thru the the fill cap. The old filters were sooted, very heavy, at 4,000 miles (oil pan return, maybe lack of pressure) just wondering. The new system is Valve cover (filler) return. I'll know in 4,000 miles. I'll let know then. (Oil Guard did not give a break on the what I would consider a correct (right) setup - shame on them) So be where my friends.

I recently installed the Oil Guard and I used the fill cap return. I think you will like the system. I like the fact that you can pull the cap with the engine running and see what kind of return flow you are getting. Good info on the soot issue. I am running synthetic and I was planning on changing filters between oil changes. Mayby 5K is a good time to do that. Terry

 

[DavidC]

I have the oil pan return. While running Rotella after 4K I removed the filter that looked like tar. Installed new filter and Royal Purple. Removed filter at 5K for inspection. Filter was showing less build up. Installed another new filter and changed Royal Purple again and checked at 5K. The bypass looked brand new except for the new purple cover. Since all of that the 53 block went south and now has a 56 with Valvoline Blue installed by Phoenix Cummins. It will be interesting to see what the bypass looks like in 4K. By the way Rotella was used in this engine for about 30k before the bypass was installed.



Dave

 

[TTubb]

I have the oil pan return. While running Rotella after 4K I removed the filter that looked like tar. Installed new filter and Royal Purple. Removed filter at 5K for inspection. Filter was showing less build up. Installed another new filter and changed Royal Purple again and checked at 5K. The bypass looked brand new except for the new purple cover. Since all of that the 53 block went south and now has a 56 with Valvoline Blue installed by Phoenix Cummins. It will be interesting to see what the bypass looks like in 4K. By the way Rotella was used in this engine for about 30k before the bypass was installed.



Dave

Dave, are you referring to Rotella standard or the new Rotella synthetic oil? I just switched to the Rotella full synthetic when I installed the Oil Guard. I will be interested to see what the filter looks like when I pull it. Terry

 

[rbattelle]

Anyone have a pic and place where the oilguard return cap can be purchased?



-Ryan

 

[LightmanE300]

Guys looking at the filter is no indication of its performance. You need to do an oil analysis. Considering that your stock filter and oil can go 7500/15000 miles, Expect your bypass element to at least do 15-20k. I had an oilguard on my TDI that I changed every 20k with great oil analysis results, and change my amsoil bypass filter at 20k as well on my Cummins.

 

[DavidC]

Dave, are you referring to Rotella standard or the new Rotella synthetic oil? I just switched to the Rotella full synthetic when I installed the Oil Guard. I will be interested to see what the filter looks like when I pull it. Terry

It was the standard style (Pre synthetic). I probably should have changed the Rotella a few times with the bypass to see if all the gunk the first two times was actually the bypass cleaning 30K of build up. I will run the pre synthetic at least one more time as the new block only has 2K on it so far and I would not feel to confident running synthetic until 10-15K. Oil analysis reports (4 of them) during all of this thru a local Cat dealer all came back fine. The bypass is still installed since the new block so I should not have any sludge build up, If that was indeed the case.



Dave

 

[TTubb]

Anyone have a pic and place where the oilguard return cap can be purchased?



-Ryan

Here ya go, Ryan. Terry

http://www.oilguard.com/

 

[rbattelle]

Here ya go, Ryan. Terry

http://www.oilguard.com/

I found that site okay, but I can't locate the filler cap adaptor you guys are talking about...



-Ryan

 

[TTubb]

I found that site okay, but I can't locate the filler cap adaptor you guys are talking about...



-Ryan

Ryan, they don't have a picture on a CTD, but here is the link for the same thing on a Ford.



http://www.oilguard.com/Merchant4/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=mtm&Category_Code=eps-1



http://www.oilguard.com/Ford6Install.php



I did not like the idea of an oil line on the bottom of the pan so I went with the new filler cap adapter. I also did not like the "slip on" fittings and for $30 extra you can get aircraft type hydraulic fittings with steel braided hose (interior steel braid). I will try to take some pics and post in the next few days. I installed my system on the cross member without drilling any holes. It can be removed intirely in a couple of minutes if I needed to take it to the dealer (still in warranty). Terry

 

[rbattelle]

Is it an aluminum cap? And can it be ordered separately? [I guess I should call Oilguard and find out]

 

[ramtifosi]

Ryan,



Its an aluminum cap, cost is $35. You must call Oil Guard to order it as they don't show it on their website for Cummins. It comes with a 90 elbow on it but not the fitting (barb) to attach the hose, I used my old one.