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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Oil in coldpipe?

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Took off the coldpipe on my twins today and there was oil in there. BHT3B is brand new and I have put about 6000 mi. on it. I used a brass fitting that threaded into the bottom of the turbo for my drain so I don't think that it is too restrictive since it looked as if it was made to recieve it. Hose is plenty big. I know the dangers of a runaway so I don't want to mess around. I have not pushed this turbo hard either. Has a 12,000 mile warranty. Send it back? What can I do to prevent this... ?



Jamie
 
Looks like you may have found your high egt, not spooling up issue. Maybe the turbo was bad? Send it back for warranty. What kind of air filter are you running? I've heard that if the air filter is to restrictive you can suck in the turbo seal.
 
seen this on some twin setups...



not sure what the deal is, but...



1. insufficient filtration CFM on the intake side of the turbo... the most recent setup I saw this problem on was necked down to a 4" intake pipe on the bottom turbo!



2. high crank case pressure due to high boost/power and insufficient crank case breathing. granted, you've got 60psi of oil pressure on the feed side of the turbo, but oil drain diameter and routing is key. the oil comes out of the center section a foamy mess and anything hurting the draining ability can cause oil to push past the center section





spraying oil with the bottom turbo is a good way to erode the compressor wheel of your top turbo. seen it w/ my own eyes!
 
Well, I have a 5. 5" AFE (however, I did use K&N oil, but I wouldn't think that would change anything severely). Oil drain is good as far as I know. Used a barbed brass fitting on the bottom of the turbo and 7/8" hose to connect the fitting to the oil drain press in fitting in the block. No kinks either. Is the turbo seal shot or do I add a crankcase breather and maybe that will fix it? Never taken a turbo cartridge apart, but once the seal on the turbo leaks, is it done?




Next question. Cleaning the intercooler? Remove it and what?


Top turbo has definitely seen some oil. Clean it as well? Brake clean... ?

How do I add a crankcase breather?

Thanks,
Jamie
 
dangit, I do agree w/ those! I had a case of engage mouth/disengage brain when I first saw that post/thread. didn't realize they vented two cyl's per breather!!! I likey :)
 
Being the poor college kid that I am, is there a cheaper way? Those look sweet though. Why would increase in boost blow out my turbo seal though? I dunno, I am not too mad b/c I have to have my hotpipe flat sanded and I am hoping to get a 23 housing from a guy here in a bit anyways. Anybody know where a guy could get a 22 housing?



Jamie
 
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OK, still have some questions. Is the turbo in need of a rebuild? I am a bit clueless on this, but if the seal leaks, does it need to go out to a turbo shop? The place that I got it from does not answer my emails or calls, so unfortunately they might not honor their warranty if I don't get a hold of them soon. BTW I got it from TPEUSA.com

If I need to send it out, who do I send it to and what am I looking at to get it fixed.

Thanks,
Jamie
 
Just wondering when you found this oil and when you oiled that filter last??? reason being usually ever other pull I will clean my AFE and re-oil it (when we pull on stone dust up here I find actuall rocks in the air filter) and there are guys in the class that run with out an air filter! Anyway, the one time I oiled it pretty good, went and pulled then had to take the cold pipe off to do some tweaking... sure enough, the pipe was coated in oil as well as all around the turbo wheel... I was sure I blew up my Super4C, then I found one little bit of oil that was actually blew, I knew that it was just from my AFE.



Just an idea before you tear that big charger off!



RyanB
 
I actually just iled it not long ago, but this is definately engine oil. Dark colored and a lot of it. Not just a coat, but if I take the coldpipe off, it will run out of the pipe. PLus there is visible oil dripping down the side of the charger on the compressor side.
Jamie
 
okay, sounds like the charger then... wouldn't run it at all with out an air kill that works great and know it will work every time!!
 
Yep, definitely not going to run it at all. Anybody on who to send the charger to and how to clean the intercooler? I was thinking hot water and Cascade dish soap?

Jamie
 
I heard a guy tell me one time that he took a shopvac... put it on the blower setting... rigged it up to blow thru the intercooler and duct taped the hose to the it... then drilled an 1/8" hole into the hose right beside the aluminum opening and sprayed a couple cans of brake cleaner thru it... . then as soon as they were all empty he quick unhooked the hose, and dumped hot water/mixed with a soap that doesn't bouble up thru the other side to push it all back out... said it cleaned it perfectly!
 
Question for Forrest

Forrest, this might be a question for you b/c I read this thread that you wrote into. If I do add a crankcase vent or fix whatever problem I am having, will my turbo still be OK since like you said it is just a steel on steel seal? I have gone to my local truck guy and he is looking into getting me one of those valve covers or possibly switching the oil fill to the 24v oil fill with breather combo.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com.../129022-twins-break-timeframe-oil-intake.html
 
If I did the oil filler breather or one of the dual valve cover breathers, would that be enough to fix my problem? By reading around, sounds like if I address the problem or problems that I am having, my turbo should be OK and does not need to be sent out.

Jamie
 
Ordered the breather setup that goes between the oil filler and timing cover. Comes with a hose as well. Cost me $47 and should be here later this week.

Also removed the 3B today from the truck to check it out and have the flanges on my hotpipe flat sanded. There was oil in the coldpipe from my drive here to my buddies shop that is about 30 minutes away. However, when I removed the compressor housing off the 3B, NO OIL at all! WTF? I figured that it would be an oily mess in there. Could this mean that oil is coming from my 35, out the front of the turbo and just draining down my coldpipe towards my 3B? How do I check this? If I undo the snapring on the back of the compressor housing of my 35, will I be able to see if oil is coming from the 35 cartridge?


Also, while I have it apart, I need a 22 housing for the 3B. Anybody got one or know of where to get one? Have a 23 on the line, but have heard 22's are better.

Thanks,
Jamie
 
Extra breather is in. It went right in, no problem. Oil drain was enlarged, air filter cleaned. Still oil coming from the 3b.

So, is there a seal or o-ring that could have broken when I didn't have enough breathers? Need to send the turbo out? To whome? Local truck stop? Can I fix it myself?

Jamie
 
Also in my gallery are some pics of the oil drain as well as the breather from cummins. BTW the truck made 317 hp on the dynojet. The guy didn't load the brake all the way or something and it only pushed 55 psi instead of the 59psi that usually see on the road. Egt's down to about 1325* Max.
 
Some interesting news. JStieger wrote me today and said that he had the same problem with his BD twins. He said that it has been mentioned to him that the small charger can spool so much faster than the large charger that it can create a vacume and suck oil past the seal on the 3B. makes sense I guess.

Could that mean that
A. You need a smaller housing on the 3B so it spools faster and is pushing air instead of having air sucked through it at low RPM's.

and
B. I need like a 14WG housing on the 35 so that it spools at a closer RPM to the 3B?

I put a 23 housing on there while I had it all apart. Noticed a small increase in boost from the 3B itself and maybe a small increase in spool... . not too much.

Forrest, other guys with twins experience want to chime in. I'm getting tired of this.

Jamie

P. S. anybody that wants to trade a 22 housing for a 23 and a 26 let me know.
 
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