Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Oil in radiator

[DWitcher]

Joe any luck yet?

 

[JGheen]

Well, it sure was the HG, it was burning coolant in cylinder #6, and I am not sure how long it has been doing it cuz it was somewhat rusty in there and the combustion chamber was pretty rusted as well. When I pulled the head off there was a bit of water/coolant in the piston bowl. I think it was definately leaked in and not from removing the head and dumping any water in cuz there were no drip spots/trails around anywhere. Either way I think I might have to replace the #6 piston and sleeve, not sure. The cylinder looks ok but I would say about 1/2" down from the ridge where the piston was sitting until I removed the head, a rust ridge formed. I rotated the engine back a little bit to inspect it and clean in there, and it seemed to smooth out some just from a good wipe. I need to do a search on piston condition and replacement.



Also, the oil cooler appears to be fine as I found a rigged way to hold about 60psi in the oil holes on the back of it and no bubbles came out in a bucket of water. I think I am gonna get a new one anyway for some future insurance since that one has been through a lot of miles.



I'll get some pics as soon as the digital cam is charged back up. Oo.



Joe

 

[DWitcher]

Well make a fool out of me :-laf You can try to replace the piston but you'll have a hard time replacing the sleeve due to the fact the 5. 9 dose'nt have liners/sleeves. :{

 

[JGheen]

Well here is a pic of what I found in #6..... do ya think I can just clean the deck off, not worry about it and just run it when the head is done??

 

[JGheen]

The piston doesn't look bad IMO, but I have not really seen a whole lot of diesel pistons to make that call for sure. It's just the edges of it that look to be rough, rusted and corroded. Cylinder wall is nice and smooth, no scuffs, just that rust ridge it formed from sitting there for a couple days with water/coolant(interesting thing was, the liquid had no "green" color to it like I thought it would if it was coolant) on the cylinder walls, on the piston and in the bowl.

I cleaned everything a best I could for now, got the deck scraped of all gasket material. How do I clean out the gasket dust that may have fallen down into the pushrod holes and could possibly lead to clogged piston cooling squirters?? Just pour some oil down the holes to wash the debris down to the oil pan and drain it out?? I tried my best to keep that crap out of the holes but I guess some will always end up in there no matter how careful you are.



Joe

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Joe, most of my cylinders have the exact same markings as yours. When I run my finger over them it feels smooth, so I didn't worry about it. I noticed them when I had my head off at 352k, now with the head off 34,000 miles later they look the same. So if it feels smooth to the finger I'd say don't worry about the cylinders.



As far as gasket material falling down into the lifter gallery a few miniscule pieces should be OK, they will be caught by the filter, but I would definitely change your oil after your initial startup after the HG job.



If you've dropped more than that in though, drain your engine oil after you're done cleaning the deck, then run that oil through a rag filter, then use that same oil to pour down the pushrod holes to flush any remaining debris out.



Being the cheap guy I am, I would run that oil through a rag once again, and put it back in the motor for the initial startup, then let it run until warmed up (without driving it) then do a final oil change. . . this will help carry away any remaining shtuff. Or another thing you can do instead of using the old oil again for the final flush is put 8 quarts of cheap new gasser oil in for the initial startup & warmup, which is enough oil if you are not driving it. After a good 20-30 minute fast idle drain the cheap stuff and put your good stuff in.



I would replace your HG with the Marine version, stock thickness, Cummins PN 3283335, cost $85. 76.



Vaughn

 

[JGheen]

Joe, most of my cylinders have the exact same markings as yours. When I run my finger over them it feels smooth, so I didn't worry about it. I noticed them when I had my head off at 352k, now with the head off 34,000 miles later they look the same. So if it feels smooth to the finger I'd say don't worry about the cylinders.





Vaughn

You had some what of a rust ridge like I show in the pics? Would it be worth it to just pull the pan, remove the piston and run a basic ball hone through it to clean that rust line up some so it doesn't score the rings up any upon re-start??



Joe

 

[csutton7]

you don't just pull the pan on these things if you didn't know--you'll have to jack up the motor a ways to get the pan off---IMO I don't think I'd worry about the rust ridge--clean as best you can with some brake cleaner or something along that line and put it back together---chris

 

[JGheen]

Thanks Chris, I definately know what is invloved in pulling the pan, I have already replaced the pan gasket once and it was not a fun job. Much easier to do with the head off I can assume, but I am just sketchy about putting this thing back together and have the rings get scored up from not just taking the time to pull the piston and run a hone through it. Or even not getting the bottom end clean enough and have the piston cooling nozzles get clogged and cause even more disappointment and money.



Joe

 

[csutton7]

I still think your ok--but it's your truck so I can understand the hesitation--at this point why not turn the dog over a few times and see what happens--what are you out??? if something looks weird then hone it if not shove it together and don't look back--chris

 

[JGheen]

Yeah, I guess I can just hose the walls down a bit with some WD-40 and turn it over and see how it goes over those spots in that cylinder. Sure is gonna make me feel a hell of a lot better knowing I won't have to replace that piston or at least hone the cylinder out some.

 

[DWitcher]

These engines are alot more forgiving than you think. Due to the fact that they are derated for our applications gives us more room to play/screw up. Even though the comp ratio is high the parts are very stout. The biggest problem you may have would be the cyl walls and piston rings. If they're clean run it. Use a blow gun to clean out the lifter bores and change the oil twice to get the crap out and run it.

 

[SDanos]

Not sure if you put this engine back together yet or not, but I'll put my two cents in since I just went through this twice, The first time It happen, I installed the wrong thermostat in it after modifing it to fit in a ford, It ran hot and burnt the Head Gasket, So I went to the local cummins dealer and purchased a OEM one, instead of an aftermarket one, thinking I was getting the good stuff. I installed it, which is a lot harder in a ford than in the dodge due to clearance, and after only a few miles of driving, I noticed a coolant leak on the front of the head that would spray only when engine was reving. It was on the weekend and the only place that was open close was Discount Auto parts and he happen to have an aftermarket gasket that dosen't have the shims on the exhaust side, Like the OEM, and the sealing rings around the cylinders are thinner. The instructions said that it wouldn't ever have to be retorqued and the sales person told me that it was recommended for engines that have head gasket sealing problems. The gasket cost me @130. 00 where as the OEM one was @93. 00 but Knock on wood, 5,000 miles later and still going. You may want to check on this kind since you probally won't be able to redeck your block if it has any blow-by marks. I'm sure other guys may have other types of gaskets they use for high performance, but this may be more readily available to you depending on your location. One thing I just remembered, when I went purchased this gasket, they asked for the thickness I needed out of three sizes, which depends if the block deck was ever shaved, at least that is what I am told, and this was the thickest one they offered, My engine's deck was never shaved and it runs just fine to me with the thick gasket. I hope you can maybe use some of this info and it saves you some trouble.

 

[JGheen]

Engines been back together now for a month and a half and over 3K miles. Re-torqued the head 3 times and everything is holding strong. I personally would not use any other headgasket than a Cummins marine, which is what I used, due to the various people having such good luck with them. Good to hear your not having any trouble with your aftermarket one, hope it stays that way. My ARP studs are really helping everything out along with the o-rings I had put in on the new Piers head. 40+ lbs of boost everyday so far and maybe more to come as I think it may be time to step up the HTB@ to a 64 from my current 62.



Joe